Hello Volvo-Gemeinde! I have been following (reading) the articles on Ipod & Co. for quite a while, but have received some questions to ask me, not an exhaustive answer yet. – Does the 5th generation of the (big) Ipod, i.e. the video, work problem-free with the original Ipod adapter? – When is it possible to use it directly via the Ipod? Some wrote it this way, sometimes so. Can one “cause” this with intention? – Can one watch video on the Ipod (e.g. in traffic jam :-)) and the sound over the car or does it just go via USA adapter with jack plug? – Which of the many adapters (Volvo, USA-Spec, Boston-Volvo, …. / FM-Transmitter) is now recommended (sound quality, operation, s.o.)?
Category: Honda Forum
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Fire escape of a new V70!
Hello Elch-Freunde Bin just stumbled over this article…. There a new V70 suddenly caught fire for inexplicable reasons in Sweden….. According to the article, the V70 is a new car!!! The only two months old vehicle had 900 km on the clock at the time of the fire. http://www.aftonbladet.se/vss/nyheter/story/0,278931080,00.html The driver came down from the motorway exit, and suddenly noticed that his V70 had no more juice – a few seconds later the whole car was in full fire.. It was completely damaged! Volvo Sweden “caught” the wreck and tried to clear the circumstances of the fire. Gruss Schwedentroll
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My lastVolvo
This was probably my last Volvo: V70 2.4D Year of construction 11/2002: – Seat heating defective – Parking brake exploded at 160,000KM – error message rear flap open – pressure valve on turbocharger defective – engine additional heating defective – instrument cluster shows error message SRS Airbag maintenance urgent > defective – air conditioning leaks on the cooler and on pressure line – polternoise front axle It’s enough for me. The donkey rolls 800KM over the track every week and has all inspections.
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Oil consumption, where to start first?
Dear community, my rolling living room (Volvo 850 year of construction `95, petrol 2.0 10V (no turbo), 240.000km) unfortunately tends something to the oil consumption (0,8-1,0L/1000km) and emits blue clouds. After all kinds of research I first tap on the valve shaft seals, second on the piston rings. But I can not get it out quite clearly, therefore I would like to describe the symptoms and maybe you can give me tips where to reach first (or there are still other probable possibilities?). In cold or lukewarm condition there is nothing to see, no smoke. Ok, water vapor if it is cold, but that seems really ok to me. Only if the engine is nice and warm the thing comes to mind. And indeed after short idle time (from 10s) and following gas shock or after mountain descent in the sliding operation. Then smoky short blue and then it is good again. Probably everything is repeated at any time. Otherwise there is nothing to be noticed. Black soot is naturally inside in the exhaust. During the empty run or normal ride, there is nothing to notice. Then you should have taken the oil with your car.
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Cooler defective / coolant outlet valve?
Hello, I had to stop my ride the other day because at my beautiful Volvo 850 (BJ 10/96; 2.5l/144PS) the warning indicator (cooling agent) lit up. So, to the right, got off and amazed. The total content of the cooling system flowed out of my vehicle to the road. Beautiful Sch****! Although it was totally unspectacular and there was no smoke or other special effects, I had to stop the ride here and let the car stand. My main question is, where is the valve (is there such a thing) to let off coolant? VIelleicht has opened this by accident?! I don’t want to think about the fact that the total cooler could have been broken, so it is thought of other flaws. And do you have a tip for a friend in the Cologne area? Thank you very much for your help…
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Upgrade flipkeys how?
Hello together, I need a plan! After the original rubber key of my V70II has turned into a black, sticky chewing gum clump, I remember the ‘then read here thread, a flipkey of the newer models (my is EZ 02/2003), to retrofit. Original of the friendly does not work of course. In the thread from 2006 it was advised to get a flipkey from the USA, to order the bowl blade here at the friendly fitting to the FG-No. and to screw the board from the old remote control into the Ami- flipkey. Sounds quite good so far, I would like to do so, my problem is that the flipkeys that are offered in the USA always have 5 keys, e.g. at “midwestkeyless”. My remote control has however only 4 keys, the red triangle is missing. Therefore my question, whether this conversion really has a chance to work out. Maybe someone has already tried it out before me. The rubber keys may now be in resolution, actually a shame for a car, or a premium.
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Volvo XC70 II 3.2l AWD Automatik asks for brainstorming again..
My Volvo XC70 II 3.2l AWD Automatik Bj.2008 makes following sorrows: My elk buzzes, grinds and vibrates only at the front right, at the beginning only at a strong steering impact on the right and only at the same time giving gas from 1500 revolutions.Lastly from time to time also at steering impact on the left.And even as long as it is cold.After about 10-15 km when it is warm, no noise can be heard the whole day (even after several hours).Only the next day at the first start of the day. The workshop indicates that wheel bearings / suspension / brake unit / guide handlebars are checked and in order. In addition, after disposing/mounting the above parts, noise has become quieter.Even if it stood load-free on the stage, it is noise away for two days?? Steering is easy as always, no noise from the servo pump is also acceptable. I still hope that the steering gear is a fault on the steering gear or the steering gear.
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V70 accident – economic total damage or not?
Hello, unfortunately, I have been involved in an accident today. Luckily, no one has been injured. However, my Volvo has caught it so properly. The insurance company is informed and will send an expert the days. It is a comprehensive damage and I am not tied to the garage with the car. What repair costs for the friendly (which should be a repair for me then only there) can I count on? Will a repair still be worthwhile or is this an economic total damage, where the repair costs lie over 130% of the replacement value and the insurer simply rejects a repair and only compensates the difference between the replacement value and the residual value? The car is from the beginning, service-maintained and only with Volvo, full folder from Km 1 to now. The car ran until today like a Swiss clockwork, zero problems and I have always properly maintained the car. I know that a calculation of the exact damage height is only possible by a proper expert report, but I wanted to hear the opinion of the experts here before. Still few vehicle data: BJ: 10.2007 KM: 191000: No D5 jumped, no D5, unfortunately, but I didn’t got out of the wrong.
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Volvo S40 II hard to sell ??
Hello to the Volvo Forum, I have been driving a Volvo S40 II, Built 09/2005, Kinetic, 2.4 ltr., Automatic, TÜV 05.2016 The vehicle has currently run 98,000 km and is maintained checkbook (at Volvo). Had as repairs last year a new battery, new timing belts, new cathedral bearings, new springs front and new summer tires. I even had a seat heater (driver’s seat) retrofitted. It is in a well-kept condition without bumps and scratches. Why do I post this here? Since the Volvo was only intended as a transitional vehicle for a year, I wanted to pay it now for a new car purchase. However, the dealers in question were anything but enthusiastic and offered only as a purchase price of 3,500 euros. And that, although a current Schwack report as a dealer selling price of 4,700 euros showed. The dealer selling price was not according to Schwacke at 6,200 euros. As a reason, there were arguments like: – too few vehicles on the market !!!? – can be sold hard again I thought II was so popular with a purchase of Volvo?
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Back and forth…
Moin people, I saw a C70 convertible the other day and was enthusiastic about the great design (and the 4 “real” seats). I made myself smart with mobile and autoscout and found quite a lot of offers. After I had informed myself a little bit, the following model would be in my choice for me: – fabric cover – year after 2002 – because afterwards there was a light facelift among other things with clear glass headlights and improved cover. QUESTION: Does someone have a tip, which is the best motorization? – I mean, which engine is powerful enough but also reliable. And: Is the manual transmission or the automatic transmission more recommended? – At the moment I tend more to the automatic, which is probably more suited to the relaxed sliding. And lastly not least: Are there “knack points”, to which one has to pay attention? Thank you and many greetings, MOTUS