Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

I am in a dilemma! My 855 MJ95 295Tkm urgently needs some new parts to stay on the star. Rear axle rubber bearings on both sides and KAT are the worst candidates. Small stuff will still be found What has prevented me from having it done so far (I lack the space) is the clear smell of benzin (unexplained) after starting and the increased oil consumption (clearly over 1l/1000km). The near Volvo screwdriver taps on worn piston rings in this regard. The engine is dry outside. So – is obtained rather than rotted. I am therefore willing to invest beyond the purely rational economic limit and have the desire to screw itself. What would be officially due for this, however, is too much for me. Then rather than whole or in parts to “needy” – where we would be again at the place problem/storage problem. Question – does anyone want to take time and place with me one of the above options? Tips, parts and donations are also welcome.

Greetings to the moose community. Who of you knows advice for the following case: After starting the engine, the ABS and tracks-off lights stay on again and again in recent times. Sometimes they go out after 2 minutes, sometimes they light up 30 minutes until they go out and again another time they go out like all the other warning lights directly after starting. That they went out after starting the engine and I did not start during the ride yet. Is there perhaps some sensor that is shortly before the departure? Greetings to all Jan

Hi people, have the following problem: The 850 from a friend no longer starts (not WFS) and you can’t say no… Before I look for a wolf I just wanted to listen to you. First of all: I don’t have a chance to query the fault memory and would like to drag the car to the dealer of my (non)trust… Problem expresses itself like this: No spark (also not directly to terminal 4 of the ignition coil), injection valves have power supply, but are not switched against mass and thus do not inject. Therefore I think that a def. crankshaft encoder is obvious, isn’t it? Resistance value is 293 Ohm, however the AC voltage signal at starter speed is only 0.25V (had only a multimeter to measure; hope that was not too sluggish). What do you think about this?

Hello Volvo community, as my Audi lease agreement is about to expire, I have to go looking for a successor car. My first thought was to buy or finance a used combination in the price range of 12 000 – 15 000,- Euro. After a conversation with a colleague who drives an old E-Class Mercedes at 350 000 km on the clock, I thought to buy an older car with more km, which is then paid bar, so that no rate Since I am still looking for a reliable car and not some old golf (must be a station wagon because of family with 2 children), I BISHER got stuck on two different brands: Volvo and BMW. Since I am writing here in the Volvo forum, it is of course about the wanted Volvo, since a “what is better” question in comparison to the BMW would probably be obvious So, now I come to Since my wife was driving the Audi, I have had to settle for the last 2 years with a Golf IV combi with 90 Diesel-PS. Now I would like to have another car with a little more “bums”. For this reason, my main focus is on a T5 with Volvo. What is the difference between a 850 T5 and a V70 T5, Bj 1998? Which of the two vehicles is more recommended or where are the respective weak points? At mobile.de there is currently a V70 T5 d I would like to call the seller and ask where the hacking is. Or is there no hacking there? Is a 98 V70 T5 just no more value? And if no, why not? What makes the car so cheap? V70 T5 What does it look like with the 850 T5 with the prices? I find this in some cases quite happy, grad vehicles with far more than 200 000 km are still very high. I found one with 150 000 km, what is the price/performance ratio? Can one buy such a vehicle without hesitation?850 T5 What I have been looking for is that the vehicles have a) manual gearboxes, since the automatic is probably more susceptible (?) and b) power of 226 hp, since the 211hp`s are the Italian ones, where the km stand was turned (of course not always). Should one also work on the rear outer places with belt extensions in child seats or are there only Probl eme in the middle place? Hmm, don’t know what else I have to ask, what can you give me for tips, what else should you pay attention to? And at the very end I can’t resist the question: the alternative to the Volvo would be a 528i touring, since I had several BMW ́s and was actually always satisfied. Am I better off with the topic of safety, reliability and longevity at Volvo or BMW? So, much text, I hope you can help me with my further en car search. THANK YOU already in advance for all helpful posts mfg

Moin dear forum, that the C70I lover drives a “soft” cruiser is of course known. But now I stumbled over the side of Ultra-Racing (… has nothing better to do?? – car keeps hibernation…). In it various strut system are offered – not explicitly for the C70I but for the 850s, on whose basis my favorite is based. Now I also come to my question: Has anyone in the round already had experience with such a “stretched skating”? Are the fastening points C70/850 at all comparable? And very important: Does all this make sense at all? Here’s the link to the page: https://r-parts-store.com/…-Sedan-Wagon-96-00-Volvo-V70-25-20V-Wagon Thank you very much to everyone – I’m curious… Best greetings from Dithmarschen Arne

Hello to the community and respect – is something exotic and OT….. because of the LED Fred`s I thought to myself, I put my question here times. Even if it is not typical of VOLVO. Have after all other knowledge, where electrics stops at the plug and cable…… To the facts: Have in a car 2 batteries installed – front the starter battery and in the boot a 2. Both 12 V 72 AH. The 2 battery serves for the operation of a compressor cooler, lamps, air compressor etc. The batteries are switched in parallel and by a normal switch – no disconnection relay – closed or separated. Speak car off, switch off, batteries separated, cooling box takes only electricity from the rear Bat. When driving both and are charged. Due to this situation the charge differences of both Bat are uneven and the rear is not full, since the controller shuts off at full Bat front. Now I have to fix a Ctek charger for both Bat rear, which is not sufficient to my opinion. My overlay: I build up so half the problem before the charging is necessary? But to separate the charge from the old ones without asking.

Hello Elche, I have a question to you and I have put my beloved Volvo in the ditch…. ( pictures see my profile ) my question is: what should I do with the FZ? – Repair? has been pretty much broken… or do I see that wrong? is not a mechanic. – if the FZ is no longer repairable, can one tell me if you can sell the gas plant (Prins) still well or do they, I call them gas mechanic. On such a thing no interest? and has someone interested in the TME stainless steel sports exhaust system? has been installed about 25tkm. many thanks in advance for your answers. Lg Michi

Good day dear community, I had cold water loss over the thermostat, anyway I noticed the engine was overheated and it bubbling out of the cooling water tank. I changed the cylinder head seal. When I started it immediately ran unround and bumped like on 4 cylinders. I went to the search and found a forgotten kitchen roll plug in the 5cylinder sucks that I had forgotten there. After I had removed it no improvement occurred. Since then I have replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils, run the engine without scrumpts, checked the tooth belt level (multiple), did compression test, made exhaust test, on LPG and petrol runs immediately. Mistakes he spits out no meaningful ones. I was yesterday at my workshop, who know no further and would now take the lid down to see what is going on. I think he would have thought I had replaced the camshafts. Does anyone have ideas?

Hello I have a little problem with my air conditioning on my Volvo C70 2.0T Jg 2001. Start the engine, the climate turns on normally, after about 10-15 minutes the climate turns off and brings only warm air. After a few minutes it turns on again and cools down for 5-10 minutes and then it turns off again. This then goes on all the time. Since we in Switzerland do not always have over 30° I could do without the air conditioning but today I was on the road in continuous rain and there constantly all the windows run on and this is then very tedious. Who knows this problem? The friendly means it could be the climate compressor. Before I have a new installation for Fr. 900.- I ask in the forum if the problem is known. Is it really the compressor or can it be something else? My convertible has a climate automation. Thank you for the answers.

Hello, to the error description of the engine starts with gasoline briefly on approx. 1000U/min then back to 500U/min and humps in front of you? The speed increases slowly (without giving gas). In the meantime, it “plops” out of the engine compartment. When it is reached again over 1000U/min the engine runs. Switching to gas without problems, can also be started in gas without any problems. On straight distance from gas switched to petrol, the speed stops, but as soon as I give gas (pedal, no car gas) the car will slow down has no power to keep speed is just going. When driving longer with gasoline on the highway (approx. 120km/h) the Lambda light has lighted times. Errors read out A2 1-1-1 A3 4-4-4 / 1-4-2 > that should be the ABS, because of the defective contact plate the ABS light has cleaned all times like lighted engine 93kW 2.0-10V No change of air has been done here so far 317,000 km 22.08.2012 Oil change with filter LIQUI MOLY Top Tec 4100 5W-40 transmission oil change of ignition plate LIQLY cleaned the MUNY