Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello dear Volvo community, after having been able to sing praise songs for quite a while on the indestructibility of the V70 family, my voice suddenly stopped yesterday when the immobilizer suddenly showed activity at the start. In other words… start engine…. jumps into usual mania immediately … and… goes out immediately again!! (typical immobilizer). After 2-3 tests, which always ended immediately, I took the spare key and tried the start process with this key ..u nd …. look at this key, the engine stayed on!! What was that? Can such a “displacement lock sensor” break in the key? Background (which may be useful): I have problems with the mechanics of the ignition lock (keys sometimes go quite hard in). Therefore, a key always stuck in the ignition lock with me, in order to spare just this mechanics and the second key we used to open and close the door. This also works for about a year very g ut. This means that the key that suddenly failed yesterday (or the “reminder sensor” for a year was constantly in close proximity to the antenna ring of the immobilizer at the ignition lock. But to construct a reason for this error, I can’t imagine. But why does the second key, which otherwise is always in my pocket ?? Maybe one of you can help me further….I’m honestly perplexed… and that after 400tkm with my (otherwise t t.) Reuem) old crooks. a salmon in Hesse P.S. by the way, both are pure mech. keys, without electric door opener or anything….

Hello together. My 99er V70 has again quite fresh TÜV, but in spite of everything the dampers and springs are still the original ones, at almost 300tkm they are just finished. Have no Niveavomaten. Which dampers or springs can you recommend? Actually it should not be lower, should remain quite original, is anyway not a racing car with 140 hp. Would like to spend quality, but not necessarily a fortune. I am grateful for tips!

Hi people, my C70 had the SC-805 radio and the 4x60Watt amplifier installed as standard. The loudspeakers have Dynaudio stickers. After I have a 4x100Watt amplifier and a SC-901 installed, my sound is really not intoxicating and I have to make extreme settings on the equalizer so that it can sound pretty good. Can it be that I didn’t notice anything and now what’s wrong with the setup? And the SC-901 isn’t, is it? I know the original Dolby system from the C70, that was super.

Moin, we have run a V70 Bj 99, 165hp petrol, 217,000, automatic. In the car the MKL burns/burns. Also I noticed that it runs particularly in low-tour driving (curves) restlessly and wants to take bad gas. We read error with VIDA : ECM 2100, ECM 2120, ECM 250A. Air hoses controlled, seem fine. Air filter renewed, DK cleaned, intake tract was however clean. LMM optically also good. Then have replaced the control probe, via Volvo bes Now the faults are gone, but there is a strong, white smoke/Qualm development. Out of the back, and also in the engine compartment in the KAT area. There we look again more closely where it comes from. I actually exclude water, because the car was not moved further, and this smoke development occurred immediately after the new probe. There is also no water in the oil recognizable, and no oil in the cooling water. Also the exhaust gases rather smell “wax-like” chemically. He’s gone, in VIDA you can see how the probe works. Does he press in too much fuel? Why? Clean nozzles? Leakiness BEFORE the control probe gets a false oxygen value? He’s running quietly now, as he’s not yet registered. Appearing to be on all five paws… Thanks already…

Hello It’s a V70 year 99 2.5T the problem lies in that my remote control only from about 0.5-1 meter funtioniert beyond nothing goes. I have now 4 remote controls because after 8x batteries was changed I spoke to the friendly and with the one, he possibly meant it is on the remote control possibly at the receiver or otherwise where with the antennas. The technician of these could look however for 100€ per hour. Now I have new for the option e Remote controls decided unfortunately without success The most dubious thing about this is if I give in a new battery works 1 day also times of 3 meters Does someone have a solution ? Mfg Martin

Moin, my popometer has been showing an occasional “jump” for some time now it seems to get worse! In the past a short gas surge was enough, now it seems to be a little bit more unwilling. Simply speeding up is only viscous when the phenomenon appears. Detach, short full throttle and everything is clear again… In the AI (Tacho) no errors are shown, in the engine control unit (Fenix) nothing is also stored! Does anyone have a tip where to start troubleshooting? and Lambdasonde (Original) have not yet run 50 km! Before about 1500km I have renewed the spark plugs (Original Volvo), a new ignition coil (Aftermarket) built in. In addition a optically very good but used original Volvo-Zündkabelset (blue), as well as a good distribution cap plus fingers. In my fundus I have still a used idler and a throttle flap lie… LG wakku

I’ve had a new tub last week… a fucking soda! I always wanted to have, looked for a long time, and found by chance! but the pick-up condition was rather pitiful… engine didn’t run, the car was standing in the garden under a tree for two years… he was standing there quite grotesque! well, 2 years driving, then TüV was all… the previous owner was now not the typical Volvo lover… he said it was his dream car, but that’s what He did out of the car says something else. . Mega gay “air hats” glued to hood and doors back, some LED lights up aluminum switch knobs on the switch lever, and an exhaust hood to run away… Brake is naturally after 2 years in front and back, VR saddle tight, leaks to the fuel pump, soups like nothing good, tires front complete all and what else is there, look why did I buy it?!? because the facts were right! 2.Hand, 147tkm (repeatable), interior from the substance really super, the Kar almost not dented, or scratched… and after washing and a paint cleaner you can see: this could be good! I wanted to register the tub as a summer season cottage… Of course, it is made even more chic…lower, 17 better 18 inch rims, R-scatter, and of course the engine doesn’t remain so…

Hello, I haven’t been in touch for a long time – just because the thickness purrs without any problems. But now he has to go to TÜV. Had the hand brake set short, because on the right no effect. Thought, now everything is good. Because. AU did not pass. Value 3,9. I searched the forum and found the “motor temperature sensor”. Now my question: Under what do I find the one at Skandix? (or else where?). Because there are a lot of donors, for oil, for water…. Which one is it? (Is it?) The one who sits under the thermostat, which I had already exchanged?) Because I also need the contact plate. It only works every 10th time, but of all times at the TÜV. I meant “ABS system….kaputt”. That a little turning back of the key helps, I didn’t want to tell him, because for safety I build a new one. As said, again asked: What is the name of this MTG exactly? Otherwise everything was great, the examiner was very enthusiastic about the substructure. All top. Data: 850, 144 HP, over 300 TKm (Tac Ho broken), Ez 03/95. Driving mainly: 2 times daily 12 km pure highway, 2 times weekly 25 km city/road, always cruising, always in 5th gear, never over 3000 tours, consumption 9.5 liters Prophylactically also the Lambda exchange? I hope not that the cat is over…… And thank you.

I have a question that doesn’t necessarily fit here, but I feel most comfortable between VOLVOians. I’m making a fun roller for my father for the 60th (such a delta wheel for pensioners to push…). And since he’s a raster, the thing gets a few extras. – 12V battery – blue light – 4-way signal horn – Audi grill – black fine dust badge – 2 HELLA – additional headlights – white rim tires – old bike distance holder – beer can holder – and I want a permanent drone too What do I need for a turn signal? But only the 12V battery, a turn signal and a turn signal relay, right? On eBay there are a lot of relays in it. As long as he has 3 contacts, he is to be used, or do I have to think about something? Does anyone still have one or two motorcycle turn signalers lying around for small money?

Actually I wrote following in 3D-print thread. But since I did not get an answer, here again separately, in the hope that this time my question will work out more. I have no idea about 3D-print, so my question may seem a bit naive to the professionals among you, nevertheless… I have the problem with my C70 convertible the problem that the rear window always resolves at one point or another. Glue attempts on my part end with the previously described Erg ebnis. I used the Petec high temperature silicone Matic, before Sikaflex which was already recommended here for such fales. Now my idea was to make a kind of narrow frame, which lies around fabric and disc on both sides and which is screwed through the disc on both sides in addition to the bonding. Can one produce such with the 3D pressure or is the curvature of the disc a problem? Otherwise also an aluminum frame could be a solution… Volvo fabric is in a very good condition does not consider an exchange of the whole top. Thank you in advance for your answers.