Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello dear elk friends, I have a technical question: What connection is there between the battery and the control units or the vehicle technology? I have always assumed that the battery is “only” to start; but what should not be the case due to my following description. I had for some time the problem, which somehow the moose did not want to do so properly. Feeled power had been missing, he has delayed in giving gas (as if the command “Gib” Then the throttle cap was added, but only when starting and it went out again after some time. The engine also didn’t start immediately, or occasionally went out immediately again. Long speech short sense, it was the battery. That was over. New pure everything again good!! But what does the battery have to do with the throttle flap when starting? Please close my car education gap. Greetings Hessenelch

Before that, I wanted to pay my mother a visit, go, and the engine control light goes on. Restart (i.e. by battery), but it is still on. To my mother (5km), temperature goes up, until 3 o’clock. Then she suddenly starts to drive a lift (i.e., down, down, half-high, up, run…. (i.e. up until 3 o’clock, not 12 o’clock). Same game on the way back. Plug down from the thermostat sensor, WD 40 in, try again. The sensor is only half a year old. Sounds to me, and feels like it’s already broken again. Must be picked up by the mechanic, error tomorrow. Does anyone have any idea what it might be? And the best thing to do is to go to Norderney on holiday with my family on Friday. I installed the roof box yesterday, and it was clean again. It’s about 800 km from me. It always happens when it doesn’t fit in. MIST! Mike

Moin, I’ve got a c70 T5, well cared for in general, always running the same volvo handler 95 000 km. Well, my problem is, the feather domes in front are rusted on one side so strong that you can look into the wheelhouse. Only for understanding it’s not the cathedral bearings or so, but the recording is the metal part of the body. But that’s what almost exceeds the car value. I’m looking for now, for other cars give the ” Hutzen ” so a Is one of you got an idea where you can get something like that. Or does someone from the Hamburg area know someone who can fix it at least for a reasonable price. I am grateful for every info.

Hey guys, after changing my rear flap lock (switch motor in the bag) I still have the problem that the micro switch doesn’t reach and the lighting stays on. I came across a sheet metal on the MS via the search function, which you can bend. Did someone ever document the repair using pictures or can describe the procedure to me? I would like to know in advance where I have to start and what it looks like in there. I assume that the microswitch will give the signal to the Guard II, whether the tailgate is open or closed. Thank you Janko

to make it right I don’t want to have meim elk Teifer but just safe on the road and this time I don’t want to buy at ebay sodern at Wessel u Müller. This is a car supplier company with us in Osnabrück just like Heil u Son, and like all the hot ones, so I buy these feathers on site, price is first another thing, to bring it simply on the point my elk simply springs too strong by after which I had installed the springs of Mapco (Ebay ) !!! was anfags allles so far ok , so test drive made everything suppi , . but then I noticed that something was wrong With the moose with the time the moose feathers in the long curvy too strongly , as at the beginning with the old springs . So I looked for one factory town after the other on , and also no factory town found anything obstinate on the vehicle , no hooded axle bodies no hooded axle suspension , no hooded warehouses and also no broken cathedral warehouses . simply nothing you can relate it could be as if everything was ok from chassis. But to be quite sure I also lead to our Volvo dealer Volvo in Osnabrück – Autohaus Ellers. also the first noted nothing, and I also said that theElch also steers with the rear axle, say achsböcke and achslager,,, also those are taken from the company Volvo in Osnabrück – Autohaus Ellers in mine at his in sight. According to everything ok also domlager and damper everything ok, but then I said that I new fed The good Volvo screwdriver now assumes that I gans have probably installed the wrong springs (Mapco Ebay) I also told him that I had quite a bit to fight the springs to build that these were nevertheless an corner longer than the old ones, about two to 3 cm were probably longer could have been a bit more, the Volvo screwdriver now assumes that I built the springs in t would have belonged to the for the Nivoaustadttung , which however I did not have to my elk sodern only the normal urbanization without Nivo . So I have to convert the whole axis to Nivomaten staby domlager etc . the whole becomes however too expensive to me . Now I want to start the 3 try and remove these fucking mapco springs and strengthen feathers which are simmated for this car and so I am on to Wessl u Müller here in Osnabrück and have let me know which bits I eat back have let me first about these Lesjöforsfeder to make smart in hope a safer car on the road and not to have it deeper, but just safe. so people here in forum what is your opinion about LESJÖFORS suspension springs ??? or experiences ?? thank you mfg Lothar

Blower motor and resistance 204 Eur rear axle, shock absorbers, springs, brake discs, brake saddle hand brake rope, ABS sensor, small parts etc. 2297 Eur rear handlebar front,fuel filter,painting work, brake discs front, fender front left, back flap, side skirt,Zündversteiler u.s.w. 2905 Eur headlights conversion 173 Eur The costs relate to working time except for small parts. The parts I don’t have from the friendly. Rear flap 270 Eur,Kotflügel 90Eur,Or.Volvo brake discs v Orne 143 Eur rear axle,Stos steamer,Feders 389 Eur,Querrekner 147 Eur headlight 280 Eur,Wurzelholzdecor 154 Eur,Alu rims 7×16 360 Eur summer tires Uniroial 225/45 ZR16 89W Rain Sport 448 Eur All built in by the VOLVO dealer.

Today too, today again one of the stupidest situations you can have… Mummy calls: “Can you come to me to work and help me get started? I let the light on…” Innerly joy that something like that doesn’t happen in the Volvo and promises to happen. With keys to Volvo, pressed on Unlock. Pressed again. Unnerved with keys unlocked (as I later noticed only the driver’s door…). Locks in ignition lock, clutch kick, keys around and… silent. Dead nstille. I drove the last time on Wednesday and also retrofitted the Yatour, then the moose stood there until this morning. Doors were closed, so interior light didn’t pull out. Otherwise he always managed to survive more than 2 days without movement, so I push the black Peter to the Yatour interface. How did I install it? Quite simply, fuse out, radio out, permanent plus with current thief on A12, CD changer plug on it, radio back in again, fuse re in, radio code typed in, worked. Strangely at least: if one turned off the ignition in Yatour mode, the radio remained still so 5-10sec. and continued to doddle until it turned off after all. Any idea what I can do about it or what I could have done wrong? Oh yes, what I did with my SC-805: soldered the AUX-In. But this has been working smoothly for a few months now, so I actually exclude it as a cause.

Moin, I have a few questions, I have been able to buy a T5R quite cheaply, but logically not 100% running. The beautiful has a problem, the motor starts only rarely. Sometimes only once a day, sometimes not. I have already researched and worked a little bit, bridged the WFS, with which he then also ran so far that I could drive him into the workshop. Furthermore, I noticed that he only sometimes sparks and when then he usually starts. That’s why I think it’s a mistake somewhere in electrical engineering. The previous owners had a gas system from landi renzo (I think:P) installed and the workshop that did this also broke the relay box into 3 pieces, so that the relays met me 0_0( still in their plug in) I have ordered a new relay box that I then want to install, someone still has any ideas that I can best look at in the cable salad or what other reasons could there be? I have already thought about the camshaft sensor? Thanks for all the tips and for the help!

Hi, why are the timing belt intervals so different? I am talking about two Volvos and their timing belt intervals in the family. I would be very interested in the technical background. – V70 I with 140 hp B5244S2 with electronic throttle flap from year 2001 and – V70 II with 185 hp D5 Diesel engine: D5244T4 with 2.4 L (2007). The V70 I differs in mileage and annual distances with the recommended timing belt change very much to the V70 II D5 with the D5244T4 from 2007 V70 I m it the B5244S2 engine: Timing belts and auxiliary aggregate belts Exchange every 120,000 km?? V70 II with the D5244T4 engine: Timing belts and auxiliary aggregate belts incl. water pump every 150 to 180,000 km or 10 years? The questions arise, because in particular my D5 Diesel has 267,000 km on it, Timing belts since 2017 came new at a mileage of 160,700 km. Wanted to change now (already) at the D5, several workshops, also that says to my trust, I could easily go further with it Thank you! 🙂

Moin an alle From time to time the topic of 3D printing comes to light under the most different headings. To give the topic a home I would like to open this thread to connect our cars with the 3D printing. Here we can collect everything about this topic. Since I have been working on this topic for about 2 years and have become a real fan I have been given a Photon Resinprinter. Good results for small money. with my knowledge still at the very beginning, but have already printed the first volvo-specific parts. Detailing is very good, fitness has yet to prove itself. I downloaded the files from Thingiverse. Free of charge. Would really interest me what you are doing with your printers.