Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello Volvo friends, with my 2000er 2,4l petrol engine, the problem is that, after starting, there is no dipped-beam, flasher or other lighting. If you switch to the stand-up light only this one works, the flasher remains without function. After 1 to 3 minutes, the haunting has an end and everything works as usual. Could it be on the main lighting relay (although also the flasher is affected), which one hangs? Thank you already for your tip S! Thomas

Hiiilfe at me enters water in the interior, the sky in the area sun visor and grip is as soon as it rains dripping wet, someone knows where that can come in. Oh yes I have no sunroof on my V70I

Hello, would like to know if anyone knows this phenomenon and knows what that can be. My Volvo 850 often jerks, especially in wet weather. He does not pick up the gas immediately when speeding up, jerks briefly and then it runs again. This is rather not at higher speeds, such as to determine highway. Thanks and greeting the snail

Moin together ! After a long time again a problem … Last week actually stayed with #1. Shortly before first light, then vehement ignition oscillations. Had to stop at the roundabout – no stand-up gas anymore, out. Rien ne vas plus, did not want to start any more. Happiness in the misfortune: My “bossman” happened to be on site and together with the breakdown service one diagnosed -> distributor in the bucket ?! HA ! cap & runner I happened to have in the car ! … there they have that once just snowed ll changed in the snow at -5° and …. Runs ! Puuh, pig had. As always the BUT: Starts impeccable, stand gas clean, accelerates normal, everything so far OK. Only sporadically short to violent dropouts. ! No matter whether on fuel or LPG ! So very probably not the pump. Today new ignition lines installed. Candles look good and only max. 5000KM inside. No significant change – still bucks occasionally a little, Passes to 99% with constant ride with 1500-20 00 rpm, engine(empty)run otherwise impeccable. Is ignition coil ? I think rather less…. Does someone have “flamming” ideas or the same problem (have) ?

Hello dear community, I am unfortunately really at a loss with my Volvo lately and a self-search unfortunately does not really get me further. I have the 850 now for about 3 months and unfortunately do not really get to drive the car properly. There are permanently problems and defects. Some I can understand, others (and my workshop) bring me to despair. The following problems are involved. ABS/TRACS errors occur sporadically. These are the following error codes: 411, 412, 413, 414, 421, 422, 423, 444, 211, 213. Since the error occurred only a few days ago at minus degrees, I assume that this is also the general ABS error with the cold soldering points? I myself have never soldered and think it is more useful to send the ABS control unit directly in? And now to the second bigger problem. The 850 loses engine oil and indeed fresh and not very little. I start from 1L to 1000km. After the journey/during the journey the car loses more oil (i.e. Liqui Moly 10W60 inside). The following repairs were already completed by my workshop (a total of almost 800 euros), but without any improvement. – Oil pressure switch – Both oil cooler hoses in and out (these were really expensive. Almost 3 hours since these had to be removed. So tight and broken were those. But apparently you didn’t drip. Besides, the previous owner made the oil trap and I believe also the valve ckeldichtung (but not in a workshop). What else could be responsible for the oil loss? I thank you for every thought or tip! VG R4-V

Hej all together, I need advice… 20 motorway ride, this morning… permanent, slightly “sleep/striking”? Noise, acoustically located from the direction of the central ventilation grid in the cockpit and coming up from below. Otherwise everything normal, gas acceptance, gear change (normal operation/not sport) inconspicuous, brakes too. Highway ride, this afternoon, still the same noise… 2 kilometers with 180 km/h, further with 130 km/h, then speed up again and at 155 km/h it beats the front i Somehow metallic, I would say and then continue, rhythmically and clearly loud. At the subsequent braking, it rubs on the front axle and it smells, slightly but nevertheless well perceptible, like hot brake discs/covers. The noise, becomes slower and quieter at decreasing speed. At 60 km/h arrived on the stand strip, it is gone. The vehicle can be switched normally, in all modes. On the stage, an extensive visual inspection shows nothing, the steering parts are Mechatronix and his helper Schrauberix say, according to hearing, there is gas on the stage and switched on…: a transmission damage. Can this be and after hearing be determined safely? And what kind of automatic transmission is installed in the T5 2.0 with the TSN 738? Have invested a lot in the moose in the last 3 years and would like to, if “necessary”…, look for a good, used transmission and then have it installed. Greetings, Volkersson

Good evening Volvo municipality For some time I have been observing the following: – Sudden strong power loss during kickdown. Like a switch during acceleration suddenly no more steam. – Motor always runs clean and starts clean. – Once the power loss has occurred it remains over the whole speed band and disappears only with a restart. – It never lights up an engine control light. – General power loss here and there. At the moment there are problems with the reading, you only get to the “gas-relevant side” which has no errors. Further diagnosis is started and all vacuum hoses are changed, which are all very weak due to the age. I would be very happy about your input. Maybe this is a case for e Oldschool Volvo mechanic/connoisseur. Greetings from Switzerland Stefan

It takes about 5 minutes in case of rain until the windshield and all other windows are fogged. I have now checked everything. Water is not in the interior, the floor is dry for both the driver and the passenger side. Heat exchanger is also dense. The processes of the sliding roof are free, also the processes in the engine compartment below the windshield. The pollen filter is dry, there no water comes in. In case of rain it takes The only thing that immediately helps is the climate at 12 o’clock. After 20 seconds everything is free. Climate is out again, slices are closed again after a few minutes. What I notice, the air from the nozzles feels relatively damp. So I would suspect the evaporator. It was renewed a few years ago, so it shouldn’t have been spoiled. There are also procedures there. How can you check them? Where do they come out below?

Good evening in the round, I’m slowly turning something around. I built in a new battery, because the old one was apparently really broken and did not charge either with charger or after longer rides. Lima is fine, test-proof battery of my Brude jammed and it loads… Yesterday I packed in a new battery and measured it: 12.63 volts (approx. 18.00). Today against 12.30, 12.52 volts. Just measured again, 12.47 volts….I saw that it had been jammed now. ch Safety No. 15 (?) well for interior lighting etc. Current flows, despite standstill (so everything is off, completed, about an hour waited)… How can I narrow down the whole thing further? Result of all other fuses in the box = 0 mV. There is still the other fuse box in the engine compartment. Should I also measure here? And is there anywhere else to find a fuse box? V70 I, 1999, petrol, no special extras Thank you!

Hello guys, my C70 has an antenna. Unfortunately it is not motorized. I have now looked in Vida and came to the conclusion that there were only motorized antennas – is that so far right? So that would mean that the previous owner changed them sometime. I would like to have another motor antenna- since I usually don’t pay attention to pulling them out and pushing them back in – which will probably lead to the abbroc This is because the car is often parked overnight in well-frequented residential areas – the one or other randomizer is already on the road and an outstanding antenna invites you to cancel. But now I ask myself how the antenna is controlled. I know from other vehicles that the antenna is driven out via the antenna feed (which also provides the amplifier from the radio or is switched on) (e.g. this was already with our W124 before 20). However, in Vida there is the schematic representation of the motor antenna with an extra switch!? My C70 doesn’t have such a switch at all. Can someone maybe tell me how it should be before I invest money to buy a motor antenna, then find out that I can’t install it at all? Thank you!