Hello, my buddy needs a car in the near future which has a lot of space, an AHK and not much consumption. Have looked around us a bit in the net and think that it will be a Volvo 850, have already found something quite interesting. A Volvo 850 2.0 10V with 126 hp, the car has run about 450T and an LPG gas system, but currently no more tuv. He should cost 300, – what we find more than fair. According to the owner the engine runs well and also at other things he should be well The gas system doesn’t run at the moment, however, why doesn’t the owner know, that should also be the reason why he didn’t get through the Tüv. Now my question I think this in itself is quite good, because if you get the gas system to run and the car runs and gets 2 years tüv it will be cool. The question is on what should you pay attention to with the cars, or do you think it makes sense to buy it or rather not? Optical condition is totally irrelevant, only has to have space and little use. Uchen. mfg
Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum
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Question about TÜV Note – need your assessment
Hello together, My wife was with our Swedes at the TÜV and came home with a report, which contains a hint regarding the longitudinal handlebar – 2nd axis left and right – rubber bearing note. The TÜV employee probably found that the rubber bearings to the left and right are different, but was not sure whether this should not be structurally so. Traces pointed out that one of the two bearings slipped are not visible. We should do this from our side. I took a few photos, but am not sure if you can see the corresponding part on it (not from the subject and was not there during the examination). Can you say something about it or make an assessment? Many greetings, Sönke.
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Exhaust silencer: different qualities at 😀 ?
In February I had the silencer changed at No. 1, in the invoice with part number 31372150, part price 248.84 Euro net. (costs about the same at Skandix.) Since the moose seems a bit loud to me, I had No. 2 looked in. He said that it was not an original part installed, and that was the reason. Before I confront anyone now: Is there possibly different qualities? Muffler 31372150 is for Volvo original parts anyway amazing pr Eisfavorable …
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My still unresolved Volvo noise after timing belt installation
Hello, my moose is once again in the workshop. Who remembers, after the timing belt installation there was a strange noise and already the 4th. workshop does not find the error. Not only that it costs enormous money, I am so angry now and no longer trust any workshop. All that belongs to the timing belt is reinstalled several times, because basically it should be excluded that it lies on the rubber, or tension and pulley etc. But no matter what is done, this device is It’s probably something quite different, but what else can it be. What else lies in the area of the tensioning and deflection roller that the noise may be transmitted. We also let the moose run without the ribbed belt, this noise remains. I uploaded it via Youtube, I ask for help because I am worried that someone will screw my moose. Here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=my3aetWLvo8 THANK YOU the snail
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Level control hydraulically by pump???
Hello all, I am quite a newcomer in terms of my own screws, but what the screwdriver of my “trust” (or soon my no longer “trust” so told me about the levelmates in my Volvo V70 made me very stubborn. I wanted to hear your opinion…. So: the levelmates are defective, I understand, because they oil slightly on the rubber cuff. And the car has already sung very deeply with 3 Selterkists. I asked him the following two questions. ellt: 1. Could one install “normal” dampers and spring instead of the level mats? 2. What is cheaper, conversion to “normal” or 2 new level mats. Answer: Conversion would go. But would be very expensive because the level mats had to be clamped off from the oil pump and the system had to be placed arm….. The installation and removal would be very expensive, one had to disassemble half the rear ash…. that would be a pendulum axle…. I tried to look at myself smartly. behind my rear wheel and in my spare book I could discover nothing of hoses or similar…. For me the things look like normal thicker dampers with a rubber cuff … In the trunk 2 screws unscrewed and the holding screw unscrewed below….Remount support bearings…. Or am I on the complete wooden path. So among us….to replace the level mats is this a task for newcomers in the screw or then have to reset the track or something like that. The Commission’s position is as follows:
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check the electronic throttle valve
https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…uf-function-pruefen-t7448058.html?… Is there a way to check the electronic throttle flap before and after remodeling on HallGeber throttle flap pots no communication with the throttle flap pots according to vida. Yes I know who buys cheaply, buys 2x. But if I would go according to the rule, I shouldn’t drive a Volvo anymore… I hope you can help me Andi
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C70 Offer from the Netherlands
Hello dear friends, after a few years I’m back here again with the big and urgent request for a piece of advice. I’ve long loved buying a C70 of the first generation. I had very clear ideas what the future specimen looks like. He should be a coupe, switch in Safron Perl, Dynaudio sounsystem have with DPL2 and T5 engine – well mission impossible. Then by chance came upon this car from the Netherlands:https://www.autobedri jfsanders.nl/autos/volvo-c70-coupe-25-t.html The dealer seems to be serious, but the car lacks history-imported from Belgium. Service booklet there is no, only a note with a pair of manually registered, alleged inspections from a garage in Belgium, which also seems to be serious and Volvospecialized I originally thought-well, it doesn’t matter-with the price you could hit. Then I asked for pictures of the seat, the pedals and the engine, these I thought, -Ok a lot of city traffic, maybe the wear is possible. But today on the pictures (link to the offer) saw that the wood application has broken off from the steering wheel, and I already got my doubts whether the mileage is really true. What do you think about this offer? I ask for your advice, because I have already made a visit date for Monday – to and from 1200 km. I have also got the VIN, but can not be delivered. Start nts
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Volvo 850 starter suddenly gets no 12v on ignition level 3
Hi, after 12 days of service, my starter didn’t want to start in level 3. I then bridged the starter and could only tickle out a click. So I switched the starter.. again no luck in level 3, but by bridging the engine then jumped on. Then I measured the green-red cable … no voltage in level 3. So I changed the ignition switch…again no luck.. I have the 210 211 guard relays,but I also pulled that out for the test… W ieder no luck.. Now the question is should I look for a marten bite? Or is there also a fuse for the starter in the 850s ? LG Volvojuenger
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Volvo 850 rear wiper does not turn back
My good old 850 has a problem with his rear wiper motor: At first one day the rear wiper was suddenly too far distracted and was stuck over the license plate (no idea how this happened). I removed the wiper and after the shaft did not move without an arm, I removed the mechanics in the boot flap and separated them from the wiper motor, with the following result: – The engine turns, solved from the mechanics, only in a a direction (in continuous or even interval operation) – On the plug there are constant 12V on both poles compared to the mass – If I attach the wiper mechanism again to the motor shaft, it turns of course once to the stop and then clicks only stupid Actually it would have to turn again in the other direction after that, right? In the meantime I ordered and installed a tested used engine in the bay, but the problem remains . Now I am unfortunately finished with my Latin. Who can help? Thank you!
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Start problems Volvo 850 2.5 10V. MKL Burns Permanently.
Moin people, and I have a problem. Had already contacted Scuty, but so far I have not come to any result. Engine: B5252S EZ: 17.10.1995 Gearbox: M56 Although I have the following problem, the car starts cold without any problems, provided that the operating temperature is reached, and you want to drive off swallows the machine and threatens to go out (not really great). After a while the engine can be started again as if nothing had been, and d then runs without murmuring. But if you turn it off again, and want to go back, then the machine refuses to start. It would be important to mention that it smells of rotten eggs sometimes, and during the start process the speed of the starter completely sinks at short notice as if a resistance hinders the start process.