Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello Forum members, after having my elk for a few months and already doing a lot of work, I am now faced with the problem that my rear axle camps (the outside) are torn down. Now my question, what the fun will cost me, surely it has already caught one or the other here. Must confess I have not yet obtained an estimate. The other farge would be: is there here in the forum in the area ULM/ Stuttgart/ Ravensburg someone of the action villeicht s of course not for nothing and with my help, if necessary. Moose: 855, 2,5 20V, 170hp, EZ 03/95. Greetings from Swabia. Martin

Moin, my 850 doesn’t get a Tüv at the moment. Reason: All brake lines have been faulted – Execution inadmissible. Because: consist of CuNiFer, and these have been inadmissible since 1994. Only those of OJD/QuickBrake with ABE are allowed if registered. Their lines are marked. Volvo original lines are not marked. There is from the Volvo homologation department the document B0004 IM from which shows that all x70 and the S60/S80/V90/XC90 of the first generation ex works with lines are equipped with a copper alloy, which have NO markings, and also that original spare parts have no markings. Only: Unfortunately this helps absolutely zero if on the document of the 850 does not stand, even if the spare parts numbers are the same between the vehicles. If at least by the KÜS is not recognized, I just phoned with their head office, and now comes: They have in their database for NO vehicle of Volvo a corresponding certificate, the s is installed there ex factory CuNiFer, and the original spare parts are made of the same material. That means, if the examiner now criticizes the pipes and you would repair everything with original Volvo spare parts, then the examiner would be according to those in law continue to reject the repair as inadmissible. As a customer, you have to prove that this execution corresponds to the standard condition and is permissible, not the testing organization. Volvo (because this type of line has been used since the 200s) could be pulled out of circulation during a test at the KÜS without any prospect of “healing”, unless you buy replacement brake lines from OJD/Quickbrake and have them assembled. These come – just like the original Volvo spare parts – as cut-off ring products, therefore, also have to be bent first. Exactly what the “obviously manually bent” the examiner criticized at mine, and brought him to the conclusion that that can’t correspond to the original. So, look for your test organisation for old Volvos exactly, and if necessary don’t go to the KÜS, because they don’t have any information about the lines in their internal system. Since an examiner has been involved in a faulty HU certificate since 2018 because of a criminal offence (before that was only a simple offense), many are also rather narrow in terms of the interpretation of the regulations of their test organisation.

Moin together ! Must get rid of something after a long abstinence here again and need your expert help – I don’t know what to do. On the way the day before yesterday, go to a supermarket to buy a Bulette, pick it up in the car and want to go again. Just a discreet “click” on instead of “Vroammm”. Hä? About 10 minutes before I had started on the construction site – there started the moose without mucking. Who now taps on the bacteria – No ! Radio dudles, light goes, fir tree in the tacho shines unbridled Smell further, obviously NO voltage surge (Speak: Everything goes off and I have to re-enter the radio code …) I had already done that at Easter. Started, short distance driven, set out for a few minutes and then does not start again. Also then battery obviously OK. At the moment I called the yellow winged one. He meant battery sluggish …. I showed him that everything else does so far. He only meant no matter, we do just start help. ….. and zack -> there it jumps on ?! as the day before yesterday. Also turn off again, starting aid off and tried again worked without any problems ! What could that be ? Bacterie I actually exclude, juice seems to be enough there. Cams wave sensor was changed 2 years ago – if that is in Dutt, it does not make “click”. Battery poles are clean and greased. Mass contacts ? Why should the exactly when connecting a 2nd battery with about the same voltage suddenly like r become low-impaired (if corroded) ? Weather ? Rather not …. Bramse, 20°, sunny, the hairstyle sits …. Train magnet in the starter ? And as said: It was now (first) the 2nd time. Let’s hear your experiences.

Hello, maybe someone can explain something to me about the phenomenon. If I put on the handbrake it attacks much too late, if it falls then it can happen that the Volvo rolls back. In other words the brake does not reach correctly. I read here in the forum that you can probably reposition the rope from the inside (in the center console), only with me nothing can be set, since already up to stop. Before I have the rope removed / or do it myself? maybe the problem lies completely where different. How to look at the best step by step where the problem comes from in order to be able to repair or adjust correctly. Even if I drive over cobblestones it clatters back right or left at the brake, then I step on the pedal stops the noise abruptly. Would be grateful about help. VG the snail

Good morning, have now for 3 weeks a C70 T5 next to my V40. I have a question about the charging pressure, adjustment of the push rod etc. Did the hose pull off yesterday at the Westgate, m.M. the loader would have to build up full charging pressure, but does it not make this normal? I know it is very dangerous at high speeds because of the emaciation. Is it possible that something is broken or regulates the electronics the whole thing? Wouldn’t say now that the car is slow, on the contrary I would also be interested in the charging pressure increase by means of a steam wheel, can you trick the electronics if they regulate that!? Exhaust is already made, 3″ inch with 100 zellers.. if one makes an outcry about thermals. Does the pushbar adjustment, reduction something at a C70!? And if yes, someone knows what 0.2 bar is about revolutions!? Greeting

Hey together I’m looking for nem v70 at the moment. I am standing around the corner a 99er, 160tkm (proofable), 140ps, new TÜV, new brakes and new small stuff. Unfortunately unfortunately hardly any equipment, actually nothing except standard From the outside it looks quite good, technically on the stand. Unfortunately the interior is completely down, soft varnish dissolves everywhere, disguises in places loose, everything quite clapping and creaking on the test drive, scratches on the armature nbrett. We arrived at 2000 at a price. Now I am really superior, can you get the interior back again? Has possibly already made an interior cure? Do you think the price ranges are ok or? When little running v70 you find very rare, look now for quite a while… Extremely difficult situation…

Hello forum, 4 years ago I got a V70 (EZ 2000) with 140hp and 5-speed automatic. It ran up to 4 weeks ago quite trouble-free. But then it started: in mid-July : ETS light when starting the engine control light as well. Then the throttle valve was identified in my workshop as culprit and sent to the company ECU. They repaired it and converted it to Hallgeber. The throttle valve was then installed again. The engine then ran absolutely super super and the switching processes of the automatic were much more pleasant. However, the engine control light did not fail. After a few days of futile troubleshooting, the ABS lamp, the failure brake circuit lamp, the ESP (STC) lamp were added in the course of 2 days. Furthermore, the Tacho and KM counters failed, the automatic arrow flashes and the tank indicator fluctuates (sometimes, not always). The gas acceptance is sometimes a disaster and the automatic simply does not switch into the higher gears. I had suspected the ABS control unit and the topic ‘cold soldering points’, however, as an error message a defective wheel sensor should be reported, but this is not the case. The error message reads ‘CAN-Bus communication disturbed. BCM – brake control unit’. The car is now in the workshop and there the ABS sensors are checked (as well as the ABS rings) and it is generally wanted for a possible cable break at any relevant place. Do you have any suspicions about what it might be? VG mt123

Moin, as already described here is my front brake driver side without function. Our first guess : brake hose tight. Wasn’t. Corresponding line on ABS block opened and there comes out no brake fluid. So probably ABS block defective. Has event. someone else ( Volvo divider. 9140775 ) Of course against appropriate payment. Bank transfer o. Pay Pal. I hope someone can help me !!!!!!

Moin an alle It is a V70 Bj 2000 / 170PS Yesterday it was found that my air-conditioning dryer is rusted through. I want to replace it myself soon. I have already read something here in the forum and would like to start the order of the parts. Order the dryer, the cutting tool, 2 seals yellow (11/2mm) and two seals black (14/1,78mm). So I should have everything then, or missing what? One question still afterwards: I have read that in de n new air conditioning dryer should be filled in some compressor oil before installation. Is that true? If so, which oil exactly and where do I get it? Thank you for your help. Greetings Thomas

For the long autumn evenings I had planned to convert the switch light to LED. This perpetual lamp change was now really on my mind. In addition, the luminosity faded after a short time and the lamps became darker and darker. I had already experimented with some LEDs in the last few weeks and had the final solution now. The conversion of the 10 LED can be done easily in 2-3 hours, the result can really be seen. cht and can also convert to the big incandescent lamps if necessary. I quickly wrote a guide for the posterity. In a few weeks I forgot everything anyway. Next I will get ready for the lighting for the climate. It also dimmes in front of me.