Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello, my moose just doesn’t want to start. 850 Combi from 12/1996 with Beziner 144hp. Battery is charged. I can operate the ignition normally, the tell-tales also start at stage II (motor control lamp and ABS also off again), as soon as I turn the ignition key into stage III, the dipped light goes off, it does not clack once briefly and more. If I jump back the ignition key into stage II, the dipped light goes on again. Last week the car is two m al as described above did not start, I then waved on a few cables and pressed on all fuses, then it started again quite normally. Also quite normal without any stuttering or speed fluctuations 550 km with tank stops and jumps without problems. After that only overnight and following day put off and now stop as described above. I have now also once pulled the petrol pump relay and inserted again, but nothing changes. If I the ignition on II spins, but it also buzzes briefly, sounds like gasoline is being pumped. Even knocking against starters didn’t help either. He does not report any error code at the socket under the coin compartment. To check the cable it is now too dark, I will make tomorrow. Does anyone else have advice for me? Is it normal that the dipped light runs out when turning the ignition key from stage II to III? CSevenoak

Hello everybody, I’m very fresh here and I have a somewhat unpleasant situation to describe. I bought my first car today or yesterday, a Volvo 850 GLE. Now, during the course of the day and especially during the transfer journey, I noticed some defects that were not discussed before or not recognizable. The car is so good, the engine runs round, the car rusts not unusual. Now on the actual topic: the car was advertised with 300 .400km mileage, well. For the tour and test drive, which unfortunately was a little short, in about 5-10 minutes, much to me that the mileage was already close to 345,000km, I also mentioned that and considered during the price negotiation. What I did not notice was that the tacho is broken and no longer runs. This was only noticed today when picking up on the highway, after contract had already been signed and car was paid. In the purchase contract was other of course, I should have noticed the thing and the contract should have been completed more thoroughly, but I would like to point out that we all make mistakes and, since my first car, I also have little experience. In any case, I noticed afterwards at home that the current standing mileage is exactly equal to the mileage of the last TÜV report of September 2018. Furthermore, it has now emerged that the car already has 5 previous owners, in front of me, but the seller assured in the advertisement and in the presence of my companion that there are three. I was able to see the vehicle letter and bill for the first time at collection, but the contract was signed one day before with down payment. In addition, there are still small defects like a defective thermostat, since the car is generally good. However, I would like to know if I have a chance that the defective odometer is a reason to annul the contract or to receive a discount (repayment). Perhaps someone can help me here. With kind greeting Marvin Reinhardt

For a year I’ve been driving my moose with a screwdriver, ignition lock was only turned until the steering wheel lock was unlocked. Used lock acquired – today built in. Now the moose will not know the transponder in the new key, so I’ll hang the transponder coil, put the old key in there and try to start with the new key in the lock. Don’t jump on. Can I make the new key known with the system without OBD? Why will the old Tr ansponder no longer accepted at the antenna ring? Is the “Battery disconnect, door open, door close, three times close method” after Esker (found here) an option to solve my problem? I have a low cost OBD2 – USB interface for my notebook, but without any software. Does this help me somehow? Thank you in advance.

Hello together, for some time now I have the problem that with my V70I TDI (automatic) the battery is constantly empty, although I drive 70km daily. During the week it is mostly just like this, but at the weekend the power is constantly empty – then only foreign start or charge with charger helps. The battery is about 3 years old, the alternator is about 1 year – I exclude these two things from the troubleshooting. Mass pole terminal on the battery I have renewed. Connections at the The battery and the starter are cleaned. After replacing the pole clamp, I thought the problem was fixed, as well as after cleaning contacts. What else can it be that I am constantly running out of juice? I read something about a central locking problem in older Volvos, can this occur with the V70I as well? I am grateful for every tip. Greeting, Anton

Moinsen, after laaaaaaaaaaanger Absinenz it is finally time: the old “Schrauberhalle Ahlerstedt” is again at the start as “Älg Garage Bargstedt”. And thus also the annual hall grilling appointment: 05. October 2019 from 10.00 o’clock what’s new The location! Now in 21698 Bargstedt (soon for rough planning, exact address follows in time) what’s like always : everything else! I put the barbecue, the barbecue charcoal, care for drinks (a box Cola/Fanta/Sprite – a box B ier, nen Kasten Wasser und Kaffee) Bierzeltantgarnituren und Knabberkram. Meat, sauces and salads please bring everyone for themselves and according to his taste / preferences. The last meetings were really always fun – there were no “outfalls”, delicious food and good conversations. A small exit with photo appointment will also be there again (Sa afternoon) and who takes a further arrival in charge can also like to crash at the hall (in the car or tent). here in the thread. That’s not a “legally binding commitment” I just don’t want to have too little grilled coal and – even worse – too little drinks on site and spontaneous guests can also “register” on Friday evening – ReWe has here until 10 pm So we see ourselves (at the latest) on 05.10.2019… Markus Thread zum Grillen 2017 -> https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…schrauberhalle-2017-t6063045.html?… Thread zum Grillen 2016 -> https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…erhalle-ahlerstedt-2016-t 5788868.html Thread zum Grillen 2015 -> https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…erhalle-ahlerstedt-2015-t5375619.html Thread zum Grillen 2014 -> https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…hlerstedt-am-17-08-2014-t5007723.html Thread zum Grillen 2012 -> https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…-am-18-08-2012-naehe-hhh-t4047415.html

Now my amarture board has probably also caught it. The very left screw probably doesn’t hold any more, it rattles for every pothole for half a year exclusively in the area of the A-pillar. All attempts to find another cause did nothing. I had carefully pulled the screw on the spray wall after, but brought nothing. I had then put cardboard neatly between the A-pillar and amarture board. In any case, I was able to eliminate the flapping temporarily. the damaged screw fastening on the board actually sift from the foot space. Or does this only happen in detachable condition. Before the expansion of the dashboard I still shy away.

After I tested the chip yesterday and were finally ready to pick up the hand brake ropes ordered 1 week ago at Volvo, I took the liberty of changing the parts. Hand brake ropes: 2×65 EUR Hand brake jaws: 50 EUR (Made in China) Small parts such as the 4 springs for the hand brake jaws: 20 EUR I have printed this description:http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/…/ Volvo has planned 2.5 hours for work = 300 EUR I prefer to save the 300 EUR And as I said this morning shortly before 9 started. To take it straight ahead: I would rather change the gluehbinnen in the headlights than have to change the Kack Seile again. You have to take out the rear seat cushions and lift the carpet so that you can slip the ropes out and again. Out the parts still go relatively easy: a rivet must be located out and a screw must be loosed.. But until the part is back in.. The problem is, that the carpet is relatively heavy and so much on the arm you use to hold the carpet up, while you try to get the cable back to the right position so that you can get the end to the handbrake lever afterwards.. I am now almost 3 hours and have “first” made one side.. Although the new cheeks are not even on it… I have to calm down now before I hit the car with the hammer..

Hello, on my moose the electric window lifter causes problems. Error description: Window on the driver side is half open and can no longer be driven up. If I press the switch down, a ratter is to be heard in the driver’s door, but windows stop. On the passenger side the window is then also dead, can no longer be moved. Oddly enough, then both electric outdoor mirrors are also out of function, so no adjustment via the switches is possible anymore. I think it’s not a mechanical error, but it’s because of the electrics. In the C70 manual it says that the fuse for the electric window lifters are under a cover and it’s not usually necessary to replace them (similar to the electric window lifters). R. House installation?). For the electric exterior mirrors the fuse 14 (40 A) is available. Can it be that the fuse for the exterior mirrors is switched in row behind the fuse machine for the window lifters? Who can help there, I unfortunately have no power plan and do not know where the fuses are hidden (cover next to fuse box?).

Hello Now good advice is expensive. This morning the moose refused the work for the first time. On Sunday he was still driving and this morning he did not want to start any more. I now read out errors:Injection and ignition system no errors. All 5 candles out , spark on all 5 fuses in the engine room ok Also with start pilot nothing. Petrol pump runs from the noise , you hear it The car has no immobilizer. I made 3 years ago remote control new (Relais and new hand transmitter) De r Starter runs differently than usual.But I only have the feeling because it comes immediately.Magnet switch goes however (with inserted gear he wants to go when starting). I now did not want to remove the injection strip in the dark anymore to control the nozzles. Or do I overlook something ?

Hello, I have a C70 T5 convertible, 193 ps, Bj 2001, mileage 164000 with ATM now 60,000km. Since last year there are problems with the car. The vehicle is driven only from April to ca November, then mothed I try to set it up chronologically. First drive after hibernation vehicle went out during the ride. Then did not jump again. Several times try not to succeed, so the yellow helpers called. Was a real demonstration effect. Fzg jumped again. Gl not found. then 2x after a long drive he didn’t jump on. longer waited then he had jumped on again. In autumn then again to the workshop, renewed clutch pedal positioner; according to error report signal too high. So I stayed still a few times (did not sprung on after previous drive) or the vehicle went out in the middle of the ride. – Contacts v engine control unit and ECU case pin assignment cleaned and sealed. -Software for Steue rgerät downloaded (TCM-ECM) -fuel pump relays exchanged – contact part of the ignition lock exchanged – throttle valve cleaned This year it went on, in the middle of the motorway ETS lamp, vehicle off. So again towed to. There was nothing stored in the fault memory. Sprung there also immediately. . Last week after longer drive he did not jump again. Towed to. Have tried there again after unloading, Fzg jumped on!! In all cases the He now had the following error code: ECM 902A. have the corresponding error codes for all repairs if this is helpful. Have replayed the latest software for the engine control unit. His statement looking for errors (electronic) could be expensive. Otherwise, I am not a specialist, but I have the feeling that the workshop doesn’t have a real plan now. Can the petrol pump “hang”? Is there also a error code for this? So lan I am very grateful in advance.