Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Today only a service maintenance should be done with my moose (V70 type I, BJ2000), but the TÜV is due soon, so you could look at it there. Unfortunately the workshop then found a lot, so that you let the TÜV man look over first without doing anything, in order to be able to estimate whether you want that at all. Unfortunately the criticized list was then quite long – accordingly a repair of 1000-1500 € was prophesied (of the mechanics But he wants to go over the bill again by tomorrow, whether you can “somewhere still do something” … because we both have the assumption that the old sweetheart, although only 270,000km, will only take part in the next 2 years anyway, without making much more money. My question would be now, if there is anything with the long list, where you can save something with a little skill by putting your own hand on it. Emphasis on “a little bit”, I am really not the craftsman before the m Mr. and don’t trust me with major repairs. – Brake caliper hi/li: heavy duty – Dust sleeve (lenk) right: ineffective – Track bar li/re inside: joint ejected – Front position lamp: without function – Direction indicator front left; lens damaged. – Support joint/lead joint front left bottom: ejected. – Triangular handlebar front left inside: rubber bearing damaged (must be completely replaced, he says) – Rear bumper: fixing lackh aft – Dust sleeve (drive shaft) front right outside: torn I’m afraid I can’t do anything myself except the turn signal on the left… :-/ The question now is whether it’s worth a ride for 1-2 years to plug in 1500€ again.

day together, today I need your help briefly. before a few weeks the car started to jerk during the ride. after I first thought about steering gears / servo steering, I checked my candles last weekend. to the engine: – 2.4 turbo with 193 hp – gas system is installed were 5x original volvo candles – built for 1.5 years, about 20,000 km ran. here the picture after the expansion. candle nr. 1 is completely burned down. https://data.motor-talk.de/…/previously-1-8971023 240380644574.JPGhttps://data.motor-talk.de/…/vor-2-4085480412888067314.JPG because I had no new candles to hand, I installed an old candle from the last change (bosch – see candle nr. 2.) the second candle (volvo) I screwed in for the burned nr. 1. the engine started super. after 5 km however started the jerking again during the ride. so I got 5x new original volvo candles for the turbo and built them this morning. here the picture after the expansion the candles that were now 3 days in the car: https://data.motor-talk.de/…/after-1-6724032011755817824.JPGhttps://data.motor-talk.de/…/after-2-8096641682161302121.JPG asks: – why is kerze nr. 1 (previously nr. 2) so oiled after 3 days? – why are the interiors 1-4 so clean and nr. 5 so brown smeared?https://data.motor-talk.de/…/after-nr-5-297477641154540314.JPGhttps://data.motor-talk.de/…/cable-8754308472746573478.JPG to explain: – the compression I had Saturday with g etestet. nr. 1-5 all ran out to 14. parallel: – since a few days the car loses cool liquid. times 1 liter on 5 kilometers during the trip. sometimes nothing. – sometimes the container is full in the evening and in the morning when I start to work completely empty (over night, during parking) – Saturday I gave pressure on the system to check where the water leaks –> result: it did not occur anywhere. at least not the 10 min. where the test ran. add: – four weeks ago 40 0ml oil from the servo container and the steering made funny noises. after filling the oil everything is fine again. now I’ll see how he does himself with 5 new candles and reports tonight. does someone have an idea what the volvo lacks?

Hi, in my car (95er/855/144/Automatik) the left footroom lighting (was also jammed by one of the previous owners) remains when I close the driver’s door. If I close the driver’s door a little more strongly, says light goes out. Are the first signs of age weakness of the MS or do the door have to be adjusted? Greeting P.S. Does anyone have a guide to the vaporizer exchange in German? The english version I found, but wanted to ask, if anyone already to the translation ng.

Hello, this morning had time and pleasure and thanks to scutyde wire harness I was able to connect the amplifier and install it. Here are some pictures for those who want to install it at some point, provided they get a small picture help for where it is installed. If you do not see the holes for the holding frame, there is a pre-punched solenoid hole in the insulation mat ! See first picture ! masabi

Hello all, I made the oil trap of my C70 new this weekend, all good. Started and then the misery took its course. Gear arrow flashes and engine control light or the Lambda symbol lights up. So all plugs and pressure lines control everything well. Read out= no errors. He drove quite normally, switched on everything as usual. Then I stuck the battery off overnight and see, the arrow flashing is gone, but the motor control light is gone. So I was with my Latin today and thought to myself, because I have such a “Universal OBD reader”, I drive to and let it read out there. The result = no mistake. They just told me, drive, the lamp goes out again when the error no longer appears. So bottom line 45€, for nothing and again nothing, groans. Can you maybe give me a couple of tips where I can still look? So the car runs quite normal, but after Ca 10 And one more info: I checked the distributor cap and the finger and saw that they are quite “groomed”, but I didn’t do anything about it, put it on it again and ordered a new set immediately, he didn’t have any false ignitions or anything.

Hello, just now I was still happy about my manageable clutch taker cylinder repair (was only the blast ring) and now that: that the good 1996er 850 2.5 144hp at 310,000 km mileage could consume oil, I had already thought. A Volvo screwdriver even meant 1 liter on 1,000 km they still ok. But now I have real oil in the cooling water balance cylinder! The cooler seal supplement can’t be that someone had advised me 2 months ago when I just I noticed a week ago, that the good one at the full-gas-acceleration on approx. 3,200 tours put in a hiccups-moderate pad. Then I had noticed that the engine-ventilation line was floating around freely and spitting oil. The bayonet clasp on the air supply had gone up. I fixed it again. Now I suddenly sense terrible and think the engine is as good as it is (cylinder head seal etc.). A My luck couldn’t have been that short, couldn’t it? What do the old moose-hate mean: is there still hope, or do I have to go on moose-hate now? The current moose has an AHK anyway. And he still does. Greetings, Jürgen

Hello, I’m new here and have very little idea of technical things. But I have a wish, namely to convert my V70 T5 239 PS automatic front wheel drive year 1998 to all-wheel drive. I also own a V70 2.5 Turbo manual transmission year 2000 with 194 hp with all-wheel drive where the engine has smoked (valve burned away). Now I want to make out of the broken AWD Volvo a T5 AWD Volvo with automatic (I prefer) or switch, because the money for a Volvo T5 R is missing. Now my question. Is this possible at all and if so, how elaborate is the matter? Thank you for your answers Andreas

Hello, everybody, I drive a Volvo V 70 built in 2000. Within 3 weeks the following occurred: At a right turn the engine was running out. That didn’t even happen 3 times. I don’t have to stress that this suddenly also all servos fail. The engine could then be restarted. Workshop called – they got a tow truck and a rental car. Result: No error code readable. Relay (engine shut-off not yet in front of the series en, Krafstoffpumpenfilter nicht vermitt vermitt Ratlose der Werkstatt, Testfahrt gefahrt und Fehler nicht reproduziert We take over the car: After approx. 10 km of motorway exit ca. speed 40-50, 3rd gear: engine goes off! Back to the workshop: Want to get in touch with Volvo…Additional information: Idle speed approx.1000/min If you drive uncoupled to a traffic light to save the speed to 500 – 600 rpm to get back to 1000 rpm… Does anyone have an idea that over ‘there must be something readable in the memory’ or haste also enough fueled out?

Hello, I would like to buy a V70 2.5, you find many with 106 kw, that seems to me a little bit of power for a car in size, especially if the good also should pull a 1000 kg WoWa. At the moment I drive a V40 with 100 kw, because the engine fits to the size of the car. Or does the V70 due to the 500cc more have a very good torque to get clear with the mass ? MfG

Hello dear people. Very briefly to me before it gets serious… I bought my 5th Volvo about 6 weeks ago, because old love doesn’t rust;-)))) It all started in 1997 with a 264-string part, followed by 244 over 740 lpg, then first 850 and now, 6 years later, the story goes on. Unfortunately, there is no Volvo workshop in my area and also other good mechanics are scarcely saw… Therefore, I decided to take the car as far as it goes. euen… Last week I changed the cooler right away, because I already had oil in the water when I bought it. Yes, that was high poker but I had something against it from the front that would be due zkd. And as it looks like after the exchange and a thorough cooling circuit cleaning;-))) I put it on the right card… By the way, you get the cooler out without any problems… Battery and holder away and out with it;-)))) But I have a round of plastic can? In the case of a hose that goes from the bottom and is then connected up to the cover of the hose. Also 2 cables go into the “box”. This is then screwed to the right of the fan and I would like to know what this is, because the thing doesn’t look so tingling anymore. On the other hand, the turbo makes a strange constant hissing noise already when charging. This has to do with the consequence that this noise is constantly present from 2500 rpm. Power is there, but I have no comparison…. So, d as wass first to me and a bit something about the car… It’s about the t5 2,3 225ps:-))))) and I think about a name after… Greetings and thanks for answers, Andreas