Hello, look someone who can do this for me for a box of beer or something, or vl also sells the programming unit..? I also have a question, the alarm system is from a 850 TDI combi bj96 and have converted it into my 850 t5 bj95, now I also got a tilt sensor and to this sensor I have no question, it goes a cable from sensor to a plug that is connected to the glass break sensor but from the plug goes a cable into a cable. ang and disappear, is the second line of meaning or not..?
Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum
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Spare parts for Volvo V70 – Built 1999 in Russia
Hello, I would like to make a longer trip to Russia with a robust and good car – three-four months over Turkey through Russia. First I thought of Mercedes W124 combi diesel. But they are reddish or expensive (5000+x). Since I have not yet arrived in the screwdriver sky I am looking for a car that takes me to China and so around 2000-3000 euros. It should be a station wagon. A friend swears on Volvo. The questions: How does the spare parts situation in Russia look like for old Volvos (Bf 1999 od Is someone familiar? Which model would you recommend – I want to sleep in it. Thank you very much for your help. Greeting Jan
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Too warm cooling water in the traffic jam
Hej. A friend of mine just had a problem with his V70-combi (99 year, B5252S). I made him the timing belt with water pump 1 week ago, a service incl. plugs, as well as the sensor in the balancing tank (including exchange of the cooling water). Now he went on a big journey from Sweden to Germany and suddenly got a hot engine on the last meters in the traffic jam. As long as he drove, it was probably OK. In the traffic jam without wind it was then too hot and d It doesn’t seem to have started either, or only against jerking at the relay over the luefter. A yellow angel has already helped him, but in the next traffic jam it was right back. When he breaks the relay, everything works. Have I already had the thermostat tested (“Are both hoses hot from the Kuehler?”, but I still have no answer from him. I am thinking of a temperature fan or an interruption in the luefter control… Does he only have the one at the thermosta thäuse? Then he can pull it off and see if the Luefter starts. Up here in the country he never had the problem, because there is practically no traffic jam here :/ More ideas? From 900km distance I can help him on the phone unfortunately only partially
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Purchase advice Volvo V70 or 850
Moin moin, I’m completely new here and I haven’t had my own car yet despite 14 years of driving licences. Now I need one and have looked around a bit and I got stuck with the Volvo Kombis Bj 1995-1999, of which I would like to buy one for up to 2000€. My location is in Lübeck, in S-H. At the moment I have two to choose from: Volvo 850 2.5 litershttps://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/…/910719175-216-422 This was driven by the previous owners for 17 years, has only 2 previous owners in total. The car has no air conditioning, which is not really relevant to me. The timing belt would still have to be made, the dealer would take approx. 230€. Otherwise I will try it later and then look on. The other car is one: Volvo V70 2.5 liters?https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/…/911298150-216-16624 With year 1999 a little fresher and less km, with air conditioning, full leather equipment, seat heating… And the timing belt was straightened e replaced. According to the owner, only the air conditioning would have to be refilled. All-weather tires he has maintained up to 180000km checkbook 2 previous owners What do you think about the two cars? Does it still make sense to upgrade to natural gas at this age?
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18″ PEGASUS rim on V70R
Hello people Since recently I am proud owner of a laser-blue Volvo V70 R Jg, 99. Unfortunately the original rims are no longer available and now I have the following problem: When buying the vehicle, the seller gave me the 18′ PEGASUS rims. Now I have a problem for the MFK/TÜV in Switzerland. According to type approval, there has never been the V70R with 18′ rims. However, since I have to check the vehicle next, I think that I do not have the 18′ rims registered Has any of you had experience with this topic especially with the Swiss Volvo drivers???? I wouldn’t like it if I had to give away the PEGASUS rims… Therefore I need your help or tip. I would like to thank you for the many messages from you PS: I have saved you a photo of my baby’s
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Presentation and directly the MKL problem
Dear Volvo community, my V70 has reliably taken me everywhere in the last 8 years and 120,000 km. He still does that in principle if the problem with the constantly shining MKL wasn’t. But briefly to me: I am Jürgen, working as a photographer and for a few years because of love at home in Berlin. Just screw small things yourself and let everything else be done in a free workshop that specializes in Volvo. To the V70: Model year 2000 170 HP B5244S Autom at AW55-50/51SN 299,000 km The car is in good shape and is regularly maintained. All TÜV tests have passed without defects. To the problem: MKL starts while driving, but engine runs completely normal. Sometimes it takes a few seconds longer until it starts. Error code according to Vida IMM-321 (initialization signal missing from engine control unit signal) Fixed/changed was: – Antenna ring ignition lock – petrol pump relays – camshaft sensor – Solenoid camshaft adjustment – cams wave adjustment itself – motor control unit at ECU I have not been at my main workshop for very long, so that it is not responsible for the part width. They have turned the box upside down, but are also perplexed. You think for sure, let the lamp light up, car is driving. Because of my orders I am travelling all over Germany, there is always a bad feeling. Would be stupid if I were to stay at the other end of the republic. Have me through some MKL threads du rchgemillet but a solution for my problem unfortunately not found. Sorry, that was a lot of text to get started. Maybe someone has an idea to bring the electrolurch down. Thank you and many greetings, Jürgen
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“hard” switching processes Automatic
Moin together, I am the new one, although already a few days older and with some experience in relation to other brands, mainly BMW E32, E34, E38 and E39. We now have the Volvo 850 T5 station wagon, with which my wife has loved so long. A 95, from 2nd hand, with fresh TÜV and well-proven 235,000 kilometers, optically maintained, technically also. Otherwise we drive a 1995 BMW 750i and a Jaguar S-Type from 2003. And in both feel the shift previews In both saloons the gear changes are almost imperceptible, despite high running speeds (270 and 250K). And also the A6 Avant from 2007 with 310K on the clock, switches gently like butter. Previously only two 850ers with manual gearbox tested, with the 170 HP machine. I therefore lacked any comparison to the automatic transmission completely. The seller told me – yes, it is clear that he wants to sell me what – the switching processes in the T5 are always fast and smoother than in the Swedes tank. d also noticeable, he would have had more than half a dozen… Never change a running system, is my motto… In this respect, is it possible everything okay…. The gearbox generally does what it is supposed to do. Or is there something about which would be premature to look at? Am I spoiled and therefore too sensitive? Hope for factually sound feedback in the hope not to get rid of an endless discussion without a clear conclusion, which I also get from the BMW and the cat on the topic of transmission-oil/change/spülun g know 😉 Greeting and thanks in advance, Volkersson
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Troubleshooting with success for spare parts -Orgy
Hello everyone, I was looking for a sounding sound while starting and driving, which then also became noticeable during the idle. First I had checked the exhaust of my AWD in suspicion suspension and noticed the rubbers are huge. So all holding rubbers renewed. No improvement Then systematically wheel hub with wheel bearing renewed. VA crossbars and coupling rods renewed, drive shaft replaced right + upper engine bearing. Nothing it was worse and worse (mufflers in front with bearings and HA were already renewed). Then during a phone call for partial order with FT Albert entertained and he gave the tip I should look at the engine bearings a hot tip because see photo the right engine bearing below the timing belt that was then! See photo I then decided for an original Volvo bearing € 138, the previous held 220 000 km there I expect from the new bearing the same and if I already b the bearing on the gearbox is immediately re-engineered.
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From jerking and drinking 70r
Good morning, Since I don’t know any more, I try my luck here. My V70R 2.3 T5 Bj98 jerks if I hold the gas, so constantly want to drive a speed. This occurs only when the engine is warm, in cold condition he drives like a young god. Besides, he has a problem with the stationary gas when he is warm, sometimes even if I don’t save him (left foot brake right accelerator). The car was already in some workshop, the diagnosis was with all the engine control unit since the fifth cylinder fails when the engine gets warm, this was because the injector for the fifth cylinder is incorrectly controlled. When Volvo gave me the same diagnosis, I bought and plugged in a used control unit. The car now drove 100km impeccable. Now it drains again in the stand and jerks at constant speed, but only when it is warm. I am at the end with my Latin. were exchanged: engine control unit spark plugs and cabe l. Crankcase ventilation incl. oil trap injectors
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Open hood V70I from outside
The last one was the battery of my moose empty, the car could not even be opened with the remote control. Since the previous owner changed the door lock at some point, without making the corresponding key, I saw at first no chance to open my car without collateral damage (case room lock is not available) . Quite quickly I ended up here at the instructions, how to open a bonnet despite torn rope pull. There was then from “must be on lifting platform so that you can get there from below”, up to “blinker pull off” a lot of things, but nothing that really convinced me. I finally managed to solve my problem as follows: – At the front left between bonnet and indicator you can press down the holding tab of the blinker case with a long, thin screwdriver -> So you get out the blinker without having to open the hood – With a small, stable hook you get through the hole before which normal the flasher housing is located at the left hood lock. There either hook up at the cable pull or better at the lock itself and pull (must also fold on the right side, just press the lock in there and don’t pull) -> hood is open! The rest is clear: Either charge the battery or, like me, immediately a new one in . Everything palletti! So: should someone tear the cable pull of the bonnet lock… Actually, it’s quite easy the Hau Be also so to open. With a 850 it probably can not, because the blinker holder is different than with the V70I – I let myself be told. Hopefully sender or receiver of my FB never break… .