Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

moin people have just set up the following. When I open the bonnet is directly right under the intake hose of the air filter, so attached to the radiator fans a valve where believe three slurries are attached. I think they go to the turbo and throttle flap as well as a plug. This part tackert. Since I did not do it before …if I pull the plug nothing happens. at least not in the stand….what is that part and is it defect ???

Hello friends, in order to anticipate the meaning or nonsense of a shift-way reduction, everyone has to define for themselves. I had a good idea! But I didn’t want to order a metal plate for 75$ from the USA. In the end it is no longer and no less. With a flex, a grinder, a drilling machine and a thread cutter you can build the plate yourself. Material expenditure maybe 5-10€. Time expenditure 2-3 hours. I have the dimensions of the original P I got a piece of stainless steel plate (80x80x10) in the coffee box. Yesterday I then made my way to work. Plate with the flex cut right, grade and uneven today on the grinder and put the holes on the stand drill. When drilling stainless steel is important to have good drills, diligently cool with oil and a little bit more. I have drilled in three steps (3, 4, 5; 3, 4, 6 and 3, 5, 8). Two M8 threads have to be cut into the plate. For this purpose the hole is drilled to 6,8mm and the thread is cut in 3 steps. The installation is described at youtube. Finally, I would say that it will also do a plate with 5mm thickness without deforming itself. Unfortunately, I don’t have the screw lengths in my head anymore, but I still carry them. I have photos at the beginning with saube The circuit is now crisp and felt more direct. Even if due to the shorter lever you need a little more pressure to insert the gears. As far as Janko

A beautiful good evening together, on my beloved elk there has been an unsightly spot on the underfloor since I took over it: the area around the end pot. The rear bumper holders can almost be removed with the toothbrush and the exhaust suspension is kept together only by the rust – so far no problem, the places are probably the classic par excellence, as regards rust in the 850s. The bumper holders are easy to recreate for small money. The more serious problem, however, is the following: even the rear longitudinal beam above the exhaust has not been spared from the rust! It is stable, you can hardly scratch something and you can not push it twice, but nevertheless, more or less superficially there is a good trace of rust on it. I would very much like to deal with the whole thing in a timely manner and the rust spots sometimes on front man b But now I would need your help in two places, for that I would be very grateful: 1) Does anyone happen to know if there is still to buy the guttered exhaust holder? Volvo number is 3547625, unfortunately there is nowhere – the only thing to find are repair kits for the silencer side, but the underfloor suspension probably falls off at some point… 2) What is really important: what do I do with my longitudinal support? In any case, the option is not available: leave it as it is or still drive down and is good. Would the car like to keep for a long time, and as far as I can see, this is the only place that could become critical for a short or long time. Could one do such things like dry ice, glass, sandblasting? Or rust transducers? Or mikesanders’n? And above all, to which place could one turn with it? Body construction? I thank you very much in advance for any Help me, I would find it just too bad if the Volvo would go into the krätsch in the long term because of such an annoying problem and unfortunately I am only little familiar with the subject of bodywork so far. In the appendix still two pictures from below. Many greetings, Nikolai

Hello, I have the following problem with my 850 R: When I switch from the suction cup to the turbo operation, i.e. the turbo indicator in the middle, the car squats once when the air conditioning is switched on before it goes into the turbo operation. However, it does not do this when the climate is switched off. Last year, the climate compressor was replaced by Volvo because the old one was always stuck. This summer, the turbocharger was replaced. Has the jerking, coughing, something with the climate or the climate tax is the air conditioning controller 9166549 W630K. Is this behavior known to be a disease and how can I fix the problem? Thanks for the info. VG

Hello guys, I don’t know exactly what else to do. I did a 850 140hp automatic and almost everything and still the moose pulls really bad and makes with effort 180 times only 160! What’s new? Complete ignition system, gasoline pump relay and filter also, complete exhaust with new seals. Compressions all 11-12, gears and converters were only changed this spring, new speed sensor is also on it. DK clean, also does not clamp and also Poti new, glove test Oil trap negative… Oil change 10w40 is also made… Now I have read of a T piece with hose that goes to the air filter box. Does one of you have some pictures like that? Do you have any other idea?

Hi people I need an assessment of this ad: I drove it yesterday, everything works, everything nice, km are original (tüv documents etc) He is for my sister who lives in Sweden. She needs neither equipment nor super much performance but a value-stable and reliable car. But find it a bit expensive, but he doesn’t want to give it to under 5500. What do you think about it? https://m.mobile.de/…/270951627.html?ref=srp Best regards! Unfortunately I don’t have so much time around Always looking for something else, if it won’t be a gulf or something.

Moin! I can’t get it right The previous owner cut the hoses straight. I bought original parts now and I’m overwhelmed!! Maybe you can easily tell me out of my pants…? How we put the hose out of the oil trap? Under the suction tube or over it? Where does the end come in – in the connection of the flame protection housing or directly on the connection of the supply hose of the throttle valve? What is the vacuum hose centered in the picture and again with what verb inden? I hope you can help!! Greetings Jan

Moin, background is this: with my 2.0 l 10-valve, the following happens: If I go through the accelerator all the way, then it swallows (mostly) once and the motor control light goes on, but then goes on normally. If I remove the battery cable and hold together, the error is deleted again. I have at least for another week no way to read the error (flashing out via ODB socket). I can reliably reproduce the error. There is nothing like this just before the floor plate, no swallowing, no lamp. Only when I arrive at the stop with the accelerator pedal, do the above-mentioned symptoms, and always the lamp arrive (the swallowing sometimes doesn’t come). Is there a switch/sensor that triggers something?

Good evening, I have produced a V70 T5 automatic from 1999 which, unfortunately, depends on the speed, produces a flapping / rattle from the upper part of the engine (is my feeling anyway). The noise is the loudest at 2000 rpm. It does not need water or oil, does not smoke and has my sense of normal performance. I recently made a motor flush with subsequent oil change with original Volvo parts and good oil and that felt a bit of relief, meaning the noise is I already drove about 200 KM with the sound and therefore I conclude that there is no bearing damage, otherwise it would be completely over. In the old oil there were also no chips or especially a lot of dirt, a bit of oil coal, that was everything. It is an engine with variable camshaft adjustment, I wonder if it could be because of it. I uploaded a video once and I hope you can hear something about it:https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wstqDNtRx7s I thank you in advance for your help! Greetings, Gregor

Hi, after poor performance I wanted to have the climate (2 zones automatic) replenished at ATU, which told me that the pressure was too high (which was right) then to the Bosch service which I did not have my vehicle in 8 weeks (part problems, delivery) my climate “repaired, it was (expansion valve, dryer, capacitor, as well as the line with valve from the capacitor and compressor renewed) but was taught by ATU the system completely and the errors went off (Kl ima does what she wants, mainly only slices or foot nozzles, which is still so now, but it is all possible new ) my question would be: does this climate have a kind of emergency run so that it does not unlock because the old faults are still in the system, or is now still the control part too. PS. Sorry C-: but is it normal that a 1995 850 20 V 9101 488 has a collection pot dumpster without flex tube “Fehderbolzen Verbund” was stolen to me at the beginning of the year the cat, therefore new exhaust system In the case of the 2.5 ern, this has been changed to flex tube due to problems with tightness in the MOPF and only the 10 V of the same system.