Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello, I’m a bit perplexed, which is the reason that the engine warning light of my V70-1 with B5244S2 engine (EZ 1999, model year 2000) lights up again and again. The funny thing is that the driving behaviour is normal, the idle speed around 850U/min and nothing else really disturbing. I can read the following errors: P0171 and P1672. When I delete the error memory, the indicator light is again for a time. p1672 is described quite cryptically as “5 volt output low”. There is also no “one driving situation at which it is concerned again. Since the throttle valve was already overtaken by ecu.com in 2017, I exclude it. I suspected the LMM, but with a test of 850-2250 revolutions as graph it does not deliver any funny rashes, but increases quite linearly. However: At idle at 850 revolutions, according to the diagnostic device, only a flow rate of 2.45g/s – which would be less than 9kg/h. I mean to have read that it is 14kg/h s My next points would be: Swap the throttle flap seal in order to eliminate false air at the place and clean the solenoid valve for camshaft control and install it again with a new seal. Both can certainly not hurt, but feels like fishing in the pit because it is more likely to help. Has someone perhaps had something similar and a tip for me before I exchange pieces indiscriminately?

Dear community! It’s kind of strange: Since I’ve been back on my 850 summer pitches, my moose has been following every track groove, so strong that I often have to correct it. I am currently driving Dunlop Sport Response in size 205/50 VR16 on Columba. Last winter I drove Continental Wintercontact in size 185/65 TR15. I have been driving the summer Dunlops as well as the winter Contis for several years. Last summer I had a second S atz summer pellet with Hancook 205/55 VR16 on Persus. I didn’t notice anything with them either. This year I wanted to run the Columbas with Dunlop again. An acquaintance had the car on stage and could not notice a game on the crossbars. Also, the steering has no game. What can that be? I don’t imagine that? Addendum: The crossbars (of Febi) were changed in 2012

Hello together. Well, I would need your help/your advice again. Yesterday I changed the handlebar at the front left. The whole thing was relatively easy, but I had to knock the joint out of the clamp. It was quite rusty. I know that you can only tighten the screws of the handlebar when the vehicle is back on the ground (loaded) Anyway, I only made the left side. I wanted to do the right side next week. Yesterday I didn’t do any, I thought it was unnecessary. Today I went off to do something. From about 25-30 km/h I heard a roll-off noise which became louder with increasing speed. Strangely I hear the sound from the front right (I had worked on the left) It sounds like a completely broken (grounding) wheel bearing. In addition, a kind of grinding noise is to be heard. Similar to when you no longer have a lining on the brake blocks and thereby rub metal on metal. S It’s strange, the noise is only heard when the vehicle rolls more or less. It’s gone when the vehicle is strong and braking. If the vehicle rolls and you drive snake lines, the noise changes, similar to a broken wheel bearing. I’m, frankly, perplexed. Think of me as a savvy screwdriver, have also learned car mechanics, but here I can’t make a rhyme, because before repairing the crossbar everything was tiptop. Greetings, Jan

Hello together! Has anyone ever had to replace the control panel of the heater? Do I really have to expand the dashboard or is there a simpler way? My problem is that the left turn switch has gone away and can no longer be regulated. I have been able to move the Bowden train so far after the radio has been expanded that the heating is no longer heated (to be recommended in summer), but for the unfortunately approaching winter a working heating is not to be despised. H at by chance someone else left a control panel? Thank you, Markus

Hello, my 1998y XC got last year with three (almost not sticky) keys, but unfortunately without remote controls for the central locking. The previous owner had disposed of them, because they did not work anymore. Now I had thought to buy one or two new ones with the friendly one, but shy away from the costs. Besides the approx. 130,– for a hand transmitter there are also costs for the learning, and the journey to the nearest CONSUCHABLE Volvo partner is r And then there is still a (my assessment nch low) residual risk that another part of my ZV (receiver) is broken. Could one possibly use a complete, used unit from a butcher? -So a functional unit that worked before incl. receiver? -Or does something have to be learned at the friendly one? Greetings Chris

Hello. Since Friday my V70 has been bouncing around again. He had it before. At that time I suspected the spark plugs. But now I can exclude them. Anyway, the problem is like an extreme early ignition. I orgle, the engine ignites too early and works against the starter. Then it needs some revolutions until the engine finally starts. Then it runs on 3-4 cylinders. The starter is really difficult. If the engine then turns over 4000u/min everything is chic. The next time it runs normally in the stationary gas. Can this be the camshaft sensor ? Andi

Hello werte Elchgemeinde When looking for a replacement control unit ABS, the question arises which would fit me. I once photographed the cover of the worry child and would like to ask you how I can identify another suitable one using the numbers. My worry child comes from a 98 V70 / 144PS automatic. On the photo you see numbers for each number. Which is the important number and maybe there is a directory from which you can find out if the I would like to thank you for your help.

Moin, Today when driving, the radiator fan went on, and no longer went off. I saw a lot of shock after a while that the water temperature indicator instead of at 15:00 was about 13:00. So very high above the red area. Stopped, engine off, bonnet. Nothing indicates a particularly hot engine. No water vapor, engine top and thermostat housing are hot, but you can touch it. Hose from the thermostat housing top to the cooler warm, b im cooler cold – cooler is cold. Presumably: thermostat (changed a few weeks ago) defective. So always let cool for a quarter of an hour, drive for a few minutes, let cool until I am back home. A 30 min distance covered in more than 2 hours 🙁 But: always when the ignition is switched on, the cooler fan starts immediately, the water temperature indicator goes to 15:00 clock and after a few seconds coughs again to 13:00. New favorite position. Even after the E I stand at home for 2 hours, immediately the radiator fan goes on after turning on the ignition and the pointer climbs after a memorial break at 3:00 pm to its 13:00. Thermostat removed, placed in a glass and boiling water on it. It opens. So not defective. New theory: It was outside about 4 degrees, nice cool for the engine. If the water temperature sensor shows too high a temperature, the cooler fan goes full, the engine is cooled down, thermostat shuts. Cooler is But the needle points to the moon. Question: is the culprit the coolant temperature sensor? Or what else? If what?? And: Does anyone know the values of the sensor? I assume it is an NTC and there must be somewhere a list of the temperature resistance pairs. And: Does anyone know how the needle normally behaves when it gets too hot? Does it rise slowly? And to where? And one more thing: I have read that the 15:00 display of the Tem peratur needle is good for about 60-110 degrees (covers with my VW T5: ’90 degrees’ position at 73-110 degrees). Is there a tell-tale (<- 3x 'l' is actually quite sick, makes it fun when writing) for too high water temperature, or does an engine overheated due to non-opening thermostats die an unnoticed death (if you don't happen to see the needle) ? Many questions, I know. Thanks in advance... I hang a picture from the temperature indicator.

My “new” V70 urgently needs new tyres (at the moment it runs on old 185er winter tyres). From a friend I could get cheap 16″ rims – of course I find aluminium wheels more beautiful, on the other hand I hate to spend money for the car. The tires I imagine cost about 15€ more in the 16″ version. The steering limiter does not seem to cost much. The question of all the questions, however, that I ask (drive on all cars so far i is – Does the driving behaviour with the tires change? Does it possibly run more after track grooves? Here certainly have some experience with this tire.

Hello dear moose drivers, for a long time I did not let myself be seen here. That is only because my old moose (EZ March 95, well over 300,000 km) purred so far absolutely uncomplicated. now something spins on the brake. Rare, but sometimes. I drive e.g. at a roundabout, go slightly on the brake, and then it is almost as if the pedal is shaking back. I hear then also a slight rattling. Is somewhat disturbing – but only sel Otherwise the box will brake perfectly. Greetings from Bonn Alexander