Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

So now I would like to ask you about your opinion. My colleague has said that he likes my v70 already quite well and he could already imagine to buy such a one. Of course he should then not have more than 200tkm, because this is everyone with the used purchase thought. Now I once searched mobile and classified ads and found that in my area +250km radius exactly a v70 gasoline fits this criterion. All other too many kilometers or expensive?! Are they better now because of the diesel scandal? Or do more and more people like the v70 ? At the turbo I understand yes, they are more expensive, but with bread and butter motor b2552. They are like sand by the sea or ?

So, now as its own theme. Volvo 850 MJ95 2.5 10V, KME Diego gas system, replacement engine MJ96 Some time ago, after the engine change in the car, the MKL started and caused the error A2, 1-1-3. I then checked the vacuum, resealed all injectors (gas as well as gasoline). A year ago, the Lambda probe came new (NGK) and also the temperature sensor for the cooling water is new (display also shows 90°C). From the software of the gas system I take that the Mot In the stationary gas the injection times should be 3,6-3,8 ms. With me it varies between 4,5 and 5,2 ms. Also the transfer of the lamda probe does not jump between 0 and 5V but hangs in the fat area at 5V. On advice from the forum I installed a different petrol pressure regulator. Without noticeable influence. Today I wanted to write a new petrol map for the gas system. So the control unit pulled overnight, 20-30km to learn After 100km I had almost 100 points in the map and switched to gas. The gas map gave me significantly lower injection times. As if I switched back to petrol on test basis. Even now the petrol times were significantly lower. I was in danger with cruise control at 3000u/min and 120 km/h. So clear out on a rest stop petrol map and rewrite. Thought, maybe the ECU caught itself again. Suddenly h from me again high injection times. Switching to gas, again significantly lower. Suddenly my gas times go up. Back to petrol. Now suddenly the petrol times are back in the low range. So I can no longer help myself and therefore ask for advice here. Where can I still start? Does the control unit have one away? Is an injector hanging somewhere? Gas pressure regulator works Lambdasonde should also be able to give its temperature sensor also normal values In the appendix times my Map from the KME software. Mind you, I’ve been driving at constant speed and same speed all the time. Thank you Janko

Hello, I am currently having problems with cooling water loss with my Volvo 850. I describe how the problem started yesterday. I drove almost 400 km, after 150 km the cooling water warning light briefly lit up but a second later again. It then did not work again, until I came into a traffic jam and had to drive slowly. It then extinguished again, however, when I could drive again 100 / 120. After in the following time it again/ depending on whether I could drive slowly or faster, I made a rest, when I came back after 20 minutes, there was hardly any water in the liquid tank, so that I refilled. There was also no water under the car visible. I then drove the last 100 km without problems after I arrived I made a short break and drove another short distance on which he directly switched on the lamp again. When I wanted to drive back to my apartment in the evenings e the container was empty again. I refilled again. Also the short distance I had to drive of 2 km was enough that this morning almost no water was in it again. It is never a water leak or moisture under the car or on the container to see. I have now refilled cooling water 5 hours ago, since the car did not move, the water level has not changed. Does anyone have any idea what this water loss might be about? If there are still questions I try them best to answer. Greetings to John

Hello, I have already read a lot about the dyeing and care of Volvo leather. Unfortunately, I have not yet found the right answer, which is sufficient for my purposes: a Volvo 850 Combi leather trim is to be reworked. This has the typical grey, even the opinion that it is black. The equipment comes from another vehicle, and can thus no longer be tracked with the production data. On one component, a side panel, stands “gris”, which probably just means grey. My question : there is an exact number here, a color code that clearly assigns the color tone. I probably know the service of some providers who can emulate the color tone based on a pattern, but that is not enough for me. A simple assignment of the designation of “gris” to a color code is not possible for me from the documents I know. Similar colors, even as standard colors, are different from different leather service providers. (very probably….) – Number 46 – Stone Grey The difference is probably hardly visible in a complete processing. Nevertheless, I ask my question in the round whether anyone can describe this more precisely. Thank you K. Goessler / Berlin

Hello together, in 2004 I had bought a new Volvo C70, but then when the children were there again sold in 2012. But it is the only car I miss afterwards. Do you think that I can buy it again today and then use it reliably as a summer car? I am grateful for your opinions. Greetings Alex

Hello together my great Volvo S70 built in 1998 presents me again with a big annoying challenge. The central locking works perfectly with the remote control, all doors open and close excellently. However, for a few days the tank cover can no longer be unlocked or opened. In addition, the ZV can be opened and closed with the mechanical key at the driver’s door, but only the driver’s door opens and closes. With the FB opens and sc The fuses have been checked and are all in order. Have I missed any? How can the tank cover be opened and closed? Thank you in advance. Greetings from Switzerland Gianni

After I briefly dismantled the battery mass cable last week in winter to measure whether any consumer sucks my battery empty, I had to find out that the on-board computer does not make any display in any switch position (no time either). The red LED for the frost warning still works, and everything else works. Does anyone have an idea what’s going on with the display from BC? Thanks and greeting from schub1

Volvo first had the typical hollow noise and power loss during the motorway ride, as if there was no ignition, or gasoline more, but it went away at full throttle again. It only sporadically occurred, cars ran normally for days and suddenly he didn’t jump any more. After a day standing, the engine rattered for a few seconds, then only organs without jumping, can be left standing anyhow, for a long time, etc. Petrol pump runs, fuel splashes out of the valve d he rail, ignition coil replaced, distributor looks good, engine ran 100TSD KM. Benzifilter replaced, which was actually in it since 1997… OBD2 read out with Artlink400: no errors stored in the control unit, but injection bench 1 only 3.5% and now, after weeks only OL. keys wg immobilizer for second key tried. Petrol pressure regulator this engine (HSN 9101 TSN 740 125KW) did not in the rail I am at a loss…

Hello, for 12 years I drive an LW with 144hp, 10V petrol with engine year 96. There were already some things to do, unfortunately I am now faced with a mystery. I drive the car currently not so much. It started a month ago. Regardless of the load range there were quite sporadically (always after 3 km after starting) very small rucklers. When we drove then on the way from the Baltic Sea home, it was on the 500km about 20 rucklers, sometimes longer, sometimes shorter, with heap on Lan At home I looked at the spark plugs, which were down. I changed them all, as always for material, which is not cheap but not too expensive. After that I had a little jerker, so it was clear that it was not (only) on the candles. Finally I stayed early on Saturday. I drove into a village without a load and suddenly the engine went out. During that time, ALL lights lit up in the instrument cluster. m Stopping I tried to start. The engine might run for a second and went off again. After I had opened the hood and stood around for a short time, it went on again and I drove 10 km home without any problems. There it is now. Had turned on again yesterday and after research here in the forum tested the following: Voltage on battery with switched off motor: 12.8 V Voltage on battery with running motor: 14 V When switching to AC: 0V Have in the engine compartment with running motor Wrapped on various cables, wobbled on the control unit, wobbled on the fuses and relays…without results. The rail also has fuel on the auto valve when I press on it. Does anyone have any idea what I can do to advance the diagnosis? Greetings Robert

Good evening together, that’s probably the most interesting thing for the TDI drivers among us. I recently got an in-house Audi document about the Volvo 850 TDI. I was just interested in what the competition thought about the fact that their engine was installed in a 850 and how they argued it internally in front of their employees. I had to grin almost all the way when I read it. Especially with the Swiss registration number on the Audi on the last picture. Here are the photos of the document. I look forward to your reactions. To the moderators: if I violate the forum rules with this thread, of course I delete it immediately.