Hello dear ones, once again a question… our moose has been jerking down more times for a year now. ADAC was also necessary several times. There were changed gasoline pump, relays too, but that wasn’t it. JSince the new petrol pump is in it, it seemed better, but now it’s jerking again. Now after a few readings I heard about the coolant temperature sensor and looked at it myself to change or is the bullshit and it can’t be because of it? The problem always occurs after longer driving and only in the lower speed range. Sometimes it starts delayed. Thank you for an answer. Ciao Miena
Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum
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850: Brakes in the rear both defective …?
… and again an Easter egg found [sigh]: Both rear brakes obviously don’t brake at all, the windows are flaky and rough. Is that “known”, there’s more to know about it? How does that come about? I found a nice guide for making myself here in the forum, but thanks to the writer very much. I think I still have to learn a lot about this vehicle …
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Oil loss the second. or How do I find the right workshop?
Moin, what a year. Brakes made in the back. 600,- EU. Valve burned away. That and a few small things 1,800 EU. Car from the Wekstatt. Tube of the oil trap shaved off and loses oil like the sow. Again. Exchanged a sealing ring and patched the hose. Apparently OK. After a few days under looked. And look, an oil stain. Workshop explains that this is an unfortunate coincidence that he loses oil so shortly after the repair. Since “you have not been at all”. “But that could look at itself again”. Otherwise I could “turn in a bottle of such oil leak stopper for the first time”Old cars are never so dense. A bit of oil always sweats them”. Sweating? In front of my garage it looks as if the Exxon Valdez was stranded there. Before the valve repair it was dry. Is it so hard to get an engine close? So slowly I have the feeling of the Volvo is not the right thing for me. With the workshops I have only bad luck and myself I can’t do enough to keep the box running. If I drive into the workshop, I always have to convince the master that I want to have the car repaired and that I don’t want to buy another one. Two workshops have explained to me that they don’t like to accept such old cars, because you “never know if there are any parts at all. I don’t want to say (better) the money doesn’t matter. But I would also take money into my hands if it were okay afterwards. All the workshops I’ve tried so far were recommendations from acquaintances. But they have “standard cars” a ́la Golf or Ford. I didn’t have him in the workshop once without having to complain afterwards. From parts that have remained in the workshop over huge oil stain on the new floor mat until the present oil disaster everything was there. I have only bad luck or have other also the problem to find the right workshop for a Volvo? How have you come to “Eurer” workshop?
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Load capacity Brakes.How satisfied are you with the production line?
The title says it. What do you think about the standard brake at our elks? What experiences have you had and what comparisons can you draw to comparable vehicles?
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AEB LEONARDO175 defective after empty battery
Walter745 Topic starter Hello Together, I also put the text here, because last year around this time exactly the same problem had a colleague with the 850er. I have an AEB LEONARDO175 from FRAGATEC from the Westerwald. on the last 200,000km the system ran absolutely without problems. However, the ECU had lost the setting in the first year after an empty battery. That was then adjusted by Mr. Frank from the Westerwald and everything was good. Mr. Frank from Questiontec doesn’t want to help me anymore, because he is retired. Does any of you have an address that can re-adjust something like this? I would like to add software and interface to make a backup of the settings. Does any of you have any experiences with it? Thank you very much Walter
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Suddenly irregular idle
Hello, I need help. My moose doesn’t want to go back once again. It’s a normal motor. Started after a few hours and then irregular idle. The cables, candles, fingers and cap are only 10000 km inside. Does everything look okay. No creeping sparks or burns to see. The motor run does not change when I pull off the individual cables one after the other.Good I will clean the air mass meter again. But everything so without warning? an idea.? Zahriemen was made the other day. But the 2500km to Sweden he survived without any hesitation. Would be grateful for any tip. : ( My car is a v70 I Bj 99 automatic, gasoline.
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Engine dropout and cat glows at 850 bj.1995
Hi, everybody, I bought a Volvo 850 station wagon yesterday. 328000km on the clock. But it doesn’t look bad. After the drive home (about 65 km) nothing went more. Engine died, glowing parts flown out of the exhaust and Kat glowed nice red. Can someone give me a hint. I once, many years ago, learned to car.mech, but I don’t know about the Swedes so well. I already did some research… Can this really be due to the wrong air in the intake track or is there still cost nintensive sources of error. When he was cold or lukewarm, he ran without problems. Greeting Moose2015
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Suffering subject of tailpipe
V70I, Bj 2000, 2,4l, 170hp Hello dear Volvo community For some time now I have been speaking here because I am on holiday and I want to take care of my Volvo. The biggest construction site is the exhaust at the moment. The holder on the body is rusted and the tailpipe is due. The holder is no problem, Skandix has it for small money. The tailpipe is more worrying to me. From the SuFu I know that the original (with oval chromed end part) is no longer available. a Skandix offered alternatives don’t really agree with me either, because I prefer to have something chromed at the end. In the bay there were the following:http://www.ebay.de/itm/301121395518?… Is there perhaps the possibility to mount a decorative piece or something like that? What did you have installed as a tailpipe? Can someone give me a tip? Thank you for your answers
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Liqui Moly oil loss stop or Wynn’s oil leak stop or ROWE Hightec oil leak stop
Hello! Does anyone have experience with the stuff? I’ve read that Wynns is supposedly better, because it doesn’t have a VI-improver and serves purely to “care” the seals (should somehow easily swell up and thus become better dense again)… Do you use these additives once, rather 2000, before the next oil change or permanently (so basically in the fresh oil after an oil change? My 850 takes oil (currently 10W-40 SHPD from HighPerformer), but it doesn’t seem to burn, because it Don’t blow out the back, neither at the start, nor under load, nor at a hearty gas surge after idle…he’s rather dripping into the garage and that’s not optimal, because you don’t want to pollute the environment… Maybe I’m going to reoil on 5W-40 from PRAKTIKER or 5W-40 from MEGUIN (Super Leichtlauf or High Condition) or 5W-40 TOTAL Quartz 9000 (Energy)… Please don’t fight a ditch; I’d prefer experiences…
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Today at the TÜV and without defects
Hello, wanted to report briefly. No defects, after 17 years, minimal care and 5 drivers in the family. 855 GLE automat, EZ 11/1993, 210 t KM first owner. Greeting from OWL