Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Unfortunately I still did not buy a C70, had first a real favorite but it turns out rather as a rivet out. He has the interior covering which is with most of the wood (or looks like wood?) in silver/grey. Was already totally happy about it but apparently the rest of the car is probably not quite so bulging, let’s see what else I will wait for a call back from the seller. But I looked around and then asked me the question if the whole I I could well imagine that it’s totally shitty and is connected with a lot of fumigation work and patience but asking does not cost anything I mean to change the complete covering parts, so don’t stick on the old ones (that certainly doesn’t last very long?) How much do you have to spend on such a complete set and how much is the effort to change everything? It’s not a total K.O. criterion like if everything is beige inside *KOTZ* but I find the wood look doesn’t fit so well with the car.

Moin Frauens! Moin Mens! I have problems with the LMM! Shortly after I bought the car the engine control light jumped on (about 6 days). Diagnosis LMM, the dealer refuses to replace the part, in his opinion was not broken at the time of delivery. Search now for a used one, since cheaper and wants to take over half out of kulanz!? I cleaned the LMM just times as here in the forum often described, throttle with the same. The engine became immediately quieter, be t he regularly throws the error: mixture too thin and indeed between 50 and 60 km/h and approx. 2500U/min. Since the vehicle is converted to LPG I was of course immediately to the conversion device, but after a long search it was clear that it only occurs during petrol operation! I have now removed the LMM and cleaned again, in order to delete the control light (error is stored!?) then the battery is removed. And I drove the last 150Km only on petrol, because the petrol injection system yes a The LMM is from Denso with the number 1275636 or 197400-0120. Is this also from Bosch? Does anyone have the number? The things are new at Ebay with a warranty for 70 to 120€, only not for this engine!? With the friendly one the part should cost 345€!!!!!! Or does someone drive the S/V70 2.4l 103KW Bj 99 and has a Bosch inside and could tell me the part number? Would be really grateful about tips and advice! What is broken about such a part? The sensor measures t the air flow or here probably the congestion pressure, because the two measuring wires are stuck in a kind of nozzle. Oxidize the surfaces, or what destroys it? Cheerio and a beautiful and contemplative feast!

Haalo friend, just try to change my rear shock absorbers. Now I can’t get any further during the dismantling of the old ones. The things are stuck in the bottom. Upstairs everything is going on. How can I get these things down? I tried them carefully with pelvis. Grad also sprayed with WD 40. Does a quick advice?

Good evening dear screwdrivers and experienced, I shot a V70I cheaply, with fresh TÜV and high mileage. Vehicle data: V70I – 1999 engine capacity: 2.4 power: 140 hp mileage: 330,000km test drive was great, TÜV was made new for me and salesman made a great impression. Now I have the car here and short rides fold without any problems (<3km). After long rides it starts directly and then drains again. If I add some gas, it catches itself and I k ann driving home with a stuttering engine. Under 1,500 rpm he jerks and over it he drives half-way clean. If I leave the alternative for a little longer (30min) he starts again great and then starts to jerk slowly while driving. If I let him stand a day he can start without any problems and drives again his 50km without any problems, if I turn it off then the whole drama starts again from the front. The car is simply great and meets my requirements I would be happy if you stomped me in the right direction or if you told me how best to proceed. From the search function and research I found the following starting points: - possibly defective petrol pumps Relay (already exchanged --> no improvement) – possibly defective spark plugs, ignition cables and ignition distributors – possibly spoiled petrol filter – possibly defective camshaft sensor – possibly defective air mass sensor – possibly After a long trip of 80km with backpackers I could read the following error: P1672 This one has disappeared after 5 short rides. The rucksacks and start difficulties also take place without an error message. So now is my question, how to proceed here best. What do I do first, what is probably, what can I exclude by measuring? Multimeter is available. I thank you already and cordial greetings from guts. city of Poke PS: I screw everything on my motorcycle. That means I don’t have two left hands and can help me well. But car technology is new to me.

Hi all together, yesterday something inexplicable happened to me on my V70R on the maiden ride. I had exactly 118 km behind me since the engine overhaul, until I suddenly noticed in a turn in a place when switching “ha ? the engine is off” ? This happened while rolling without load. I then pushed the car to the nearby hardware store parking lot, towing I refused on principle because the towing for 25 km wanted to have 400 euros. I checked a few things in the parking lot. Spark is yes, timing belt is tight on it, control times was not possible, but with the petrol check came the shock. With drawn nozzles came “Backfire” from the holes of the nozzles on all pots. The cylinder head was the only part that I had to make in foreign power because the valve guides had to be renewed. Can actually only be that the control times are extremely adjusted, I skip almost exclude k I can only say more precisely when I have the car here, but I am already thoughtful as something can be. if now a NW solids ok, but the motor turns cheerfully. So cheerfully that one can mean there is no compression. Is it disgusting the thought however the following: If something has happened with you, how did the piston floors look? I still have the hope that the underbody has got nothing and it may damage itself limited to the head . Greetings

Hello dear Volvo community, the symptom is already in the subject. Can the two control lamps be simply and touchingly defective? There is a defective front right wheel sensor in the fault memory. But then the ABS light should at least be on. However, it remains dark during the start process. It is a 850 T5 Bj.9/95, so probably MJ. 96. Has any of you experience with this situation. Thanks for all helpful hints. Greetings, Ulf

Hello together, What are the main differences between the 850 T5 & V70 T5, or what speaks for a purchase of a V70 and what speaks for a 850? I am interested in maintenance costs, driving mode (other chassis is the same), spare parts availability, processing quality inside etc reason is, I am currently driving a 850 GLT year 95 and looking for something more brisk. I would like to have a hand switch T5, but is practically not available in Switzerland. Currently I have the 2 Ang See below, I’d be interested in your opinion. Gruss Karim850 T5https://www.autoscout24.ch/…/volvo-850-kombi-1997-occasion?…V70 T5https://www.autoscout24.ch/…/volvo-v70-kombi-1997-occasion?…

my (soft)turbo brick has been making funny things for some time. 1. at charging pressure, it is clearly audible from the engine compartment. 2. at operating warm engine there are sporadically/without pattern misignitions on cylinder 3, but ONLY in idle run. not at higher speed, not at partial load, not at full speed. one hears it in idle also from the exhaust and sees it through small speed breaks. new ignition coil for cylinder 3 has unfortunately not fixed. another suction bridge (without the whole (ve It can be that it somehow pulls in the empty run false air, thereby the mixture (why only cylinder 3 ?!) becomes too lean and by the same “leckage” the charging pressure hissing escapes ? the Longtime Fueltrim is about +10%.. is that within the framework or could this be related to it ? I abe soon an appointment in a tuning workshop, which has equipment for the Le ckage search in charge air systems.. I’m curious where it whistles out everywhere.

Have currently removed my engine to repair the transmission => by the way, removed timing belt cladding to check the condition of the timing belt. As far as possible, only the deflector roller looks a bit damaged. Can one exchange the individually without relaxing or touching the timing belt? Have still the gas pressure tensioner, not the mechanical one. In theory, one would have to leave the belt tensioned, otherwise the gas pressure damper adjusts massively – to the back he would have to press out … PS: is a BF5252S engine, BJ ́93.

Unfortunately, my water pump had said goodbye so that I had to be active When I had taken off the timing belt, I found that the marking I made on the left gear and head was no longer right. No problem, I thought, I was turning carefully but also has (spring) voltage and slips back as soon as I let go. If that is so, the timing belt must have been put on voltage at the camshaft – is that right, or has the foreword I noticed before (when the belt was still on), that the belt tensioner was on a warm climate and not in the middle, as it should normally be in our width…. Should I loose the screws from the toothed ring and turn the wreath so far that it gets to the marked point without tension and then put it on, or rather leave it all like this and put the new belt on again with a little tension? I am happy about an answer. LG and happy Easter wuss condrat