Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Moin moin, My rear feathers are extremely soft. When I pack 20 – 30 kilos into the trunk it hangs extremely low and is also quite deep in the back. What I could imagine the Volvo once had Nivomats and the previous owner changed them (there are new Sachs dampers installed ) but the old feathers remained in it. Or the spring is just weak and has to be new. Can you give me a recommendation for good feathers that are not quite so soft? In the front I would like to have the car a little deeper / there is a solution with lowering springs like H&R or similar, does that also bring something ? I would be grateful about advice. With kind regards Dennis.

Good evening to everyone, my beautiful C70 is just keeping me busy. After I was allowed to invest 170€ in various repairs & TÜV now annoys me the window lifter driver’s door (is a right-hand handlebar). When I press the corresponding switch the disc goes down normally, whereby it crashes pretty much in the last part. When closing starts the problems. The engine tries to push the disc up but does not manage. I sprayed the seal with silicone spry – but it did If you push the window lifter switch down and then up you can pull the disc with your hand a piece up. To close the window completely I have to repeat the latter several times. In which direction should I look from your experience? Switch broken? Or the mechanism of the FH itself? There are repair sets – I was advised not to buy the whole unit? Newly there is no more… Did someone of the FH not really help. Such a mechanism for the right front door that can be delivered to you? Thank you in advance for your answers. Ramón

Hi, everybody! To my question: I drove to work this morning at five with my moose, outside minus 10 degrees. He jumped a bit shivering, but then ran quite fast round. On the factory site on the way to the parking lot I noticed the oil smell, so hood open and at the look below I saw directly the oil pool around the filling lid. Before I went home I checked the oil, stood on three quarters, so hardly any loss. This let me settle down with the thickness slowly to drive home. Z Once I arrived home, I pulled out the measuring rod with the engine running, it rises grey fog, unscrewed the oil cover, the oil sabbling. So oil trap too, right? I hope it didn’t blow out the sealing rings. Yes, shame (again) over me…it’s still the first oil trap…I wanted to make it now in spring, current mileage 318,000km. Oil change is 6000km, with filter of course. I drive a lot of short distance and have water mud in the mot time and again. or, especially in winter. At the moment it is extremely in the measuring rod tube, everything is pushed up. I don’t drive with the moose until I have not repaired it. Can you confirm the oil trap to me after my description or does anyone else have any other ideas? I don’t really believe in the head seal… The cooling water looks clean, but on the wall of the balance tank hang firm blue-green chunks. I renewed the container two years ago, so you can see it well. The cooling water is not the youngest anymore. I have no idea where the chunks come from. Greetings Markus

What struck me after 1000 kilometers: -Polters back right. -Blinker automatically goes one side not in zero position at all, other side only sometimes. -Servo oil after tipped. -Wipe all changed. -Climate cleaned. -Div. control lights changed. -From 150kmh it gets a bit louder. -Seat heating on the left always rises out. -Central locking does not shut the tailgate. And last but not least, in the passenger area of the front window cold air flows. The higher the speed , all the more intense the airflow. Of course with the associated noise level. So I hope it’s just a jamming flap…… All in all, for a car that has 437000km on the clock and is 20 years old…..

Hello! After my 95er 854 2.5 10V is slowly too small for family growth reasons (and the family combi Audi A6 4B already enjoys a longer workshop visit with control unit problems again) I came due to an accident over a 96er 850 Turbo, only 2 previous owners, the last is allegedly a lot abroad and does not need it anymore. Stands at an Opel dealer on the ass of the world, is written as Turbo Classik (according to rear sign, front spoiler, rims and interior equipment abe r a R). Has automatic (yes, I like, even if I know that it doesn’t last forever – with my 854 she dies with converter problems also for 5-6 years and a good 70,000 km quite slowly). Supposedly the car has 278,000 km. Do I have to turn off – or does it not work any more at 6/96? Climate should work. 850R rims are there, the tires in order, interior in the pictures beautiful. Has allegedly always been regularly served there. Supposedly everything works except ABS/Tracs lamp. The dealer said something about errors in the ABS pump according to the error code. I type on the control unit as with my 854 (but they do not shine permanently but sporadically). Please for input regarding the possible repair frame should cost 2,800 eggs (in my opinion a fair price – with us the prices are usually a little higher). What I like is that the car is not praised as R or rare or full equipment. sounds useful (already clear, 19 years old, automatic, turbo, something can get broken quickly, but as Audi teaches me: even with newer cars it works).

Moin, just in advance, does not come to my computer at the moment and can only get in via the app here, search me there misstatement. The following problem. I drive completely normal and want to switch up from any gear to the next, the speed does not fall off when uncoupled but increases for a short time. If I completely uncouple to stop the speed remains also short increased, but then sinks down to the normal idle speed. This phenomenon occurs only if it is dr outside is very warm, over 30 degrees as it is today. I know the summer is over from tomorrow, but I’m interested in where it might be. Greetings Flo

Hello all, I changed the Zahan belt myself 15000 km ago. I ordered the parts from different jellyfish: turning rollers Skandix (INA), spanner Skandix (original part), WaPu Volvo original dealer, timing belt Skandix (Conti). Recently I tested the timing belt and found that a little fat is cast out of the tensioning roller. The plastic bearing protection on the roller seems to be, but has lost a little fat. The fat has become On the engine block, the timing belt doesn’t seem to have gotten anything off, everything is dry. I had turned off the engine several times before, i.e. up to 6000 min-1. The question: can it be that the grease is cast out because of this? Are the components on the engine really not speed-proof? In the BA stands for the engine 20V 170 ps, continuous speed 6200 allowed, short term 6700. Do I have to change the belt and roll again? I don’t hear any noises from the roll, which are on a mange With the exception of the dashboard (dried, bent, torn), the car is technically top in shot.I put about 3000 in repairs and parts and do not want to fail everything because of a part of 40 euros. Has not run 190000 and always been well maintained…….

The crankshaft is aligned with the marking on the gear wheel as well as with the marking behind the belt disc on the nose of the oil pump housing, the transmission-side grooves in the camshafts curtailed. If I now put on the timing belt, I can turn the motor less than a quarter of a revolution on the crankshaft until it blocks. The camshafts do only half a tur per crankshaft rotation. Is there a more reliable and less dangerous method for my motor than to solve this via try and error? A friend said that I might only have to overcome the compression in the cylinder, i.e. turn at the KW with more force. However, I have no desire to bend the valves. Now I have found a few cases in which the B5252S is the alignment of the valves. but unfortunately no solution to my problem. However, the local Volvo dealer does not know this phenomenon and according to his own statement uses the same camshaft locking tool for all 850 gasoline engines. For tips I would be really grateful. Greetings, kc.

Dear forum! I took over the 850 T5-R from my mother. After an engine damage – I believe – I have been installed weaker 20V engine. How do I find the engine number to determine which engine was installed exactly? Thanks for your answers!

Hello to each other, I have asked this question somewhere else, and I’d like to see it here as well. Unfortunately, the SuFu has not helped me sooo far that I don’t have to open a thread. So I want to bring clarity into my brain about the keywords crankcase and oil trap. I understand that you have to degrade the suction bridge to change the oil trap. But if I only want to clean the crankcase ventilation (according to the service plan all 90tkm chamber) If you want to remove the alternator and clean the “nipples and hoses” quickly. Can one explain to me exactly where the ventilation is located then? Is there any guidance on how to clean these nipples and how the hoses? Because there is not much to expand because of a thousand things … So concretely asked: Let’s speak of the same thing when it says: 1. Clean crankcase ventilation (according to service plan) and 2. Clean oil trap Ka I don’t really imagine, because otherwise the 90tsd customer service would cost a real fortune and would be more expensive than exchange of dental belts etc. ? Thank you all in advance for enlightening answers! Oh yes – affected car : C70 2.4 T year 2001. Thank you!