Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello guys! Well, now it’s time, I have the US turn signals. I just think it’s awesome. But now on the issues of admissibility that have been discussed for a long time. I’m pretty sure they’re not allowed, but for me the question arises why? and then whether it’s an illegality (SAE number only and not an E2 test mark) or a criminal offence? I mean, it’s clear whether they flash at 21W, or if they light up slightly orange at 5W. I see so many cars every day where the turn signals are switched on “duration” and therefore ask myself what I have to expect and if any of you have had any experience or maybe know about the matter? Thank you!

Hello, a new one and a problem right away… Short introduction, I’m Robert and I’m from SH. I bought a Volvo 850 a short time ago. Built 1997 I was at the Tüv last week and I raced through, because the indicator lamp for the trailer turn signals does not function. First idea: Control lamp broken. So the (and all the other broken in the instrument cluster immediately with) renewed. Unfortunately, no. N other light bulb control kit I tried out. Also not. Then I measured by the plugs of the instrument cluster: There is only 2 times a flash signal. Left and right. The E-set has an 8-pin suspension box. Does anyone have an idea? I no longer have the warning blink switch. But before I go to the scrap site I would like to ask you again.

Servous Gemeinde, I wanted to clear the suction area with my V70 Bi-Fuel EZ. 2000 times. I also got it! New filter and the dirt from the throttle valve sprayed away with son throttle valve cleaner from ATU. Since I did that, when switching to gas (serial installation of Volvo) does the speed increase. What I also very positive one step. The negative and why I ask for advice is that I have to switch the motor organs after longer. Before that he always jumped on top of it! Grrmpf I suspect that he has no fuel in the line or can this also lie on the throttle valve? Maybe this is just a vacuum hose….? Hmmh Thanks in the Vorraus L.G. Rudi

Prehistory see this thread. Conclusion up to now: None of the x commissioned workshops can help me, I don’t know for a long time any more, so I’m starting a last attempt: I hereby offer a binding 500 € (five hundred Euro) for those who find out clearly and demonstrably why my engine 36 is missing from its normal 93 kW power. Clearly and demonstrably means either that a subsequent repair (of course separately paid by me) definitely solves the problem OR that the cause of the error, if I don’t have to be repaired for reasons of economic efficiency, is explained and documented. The power loss of 36 kW is proven by a recorded performance measurement on an ADAC test bench. Anyone who wants to participate can pick up my vehicle at any time (except between KW 32 and 34) here in Rostock and get a week time. If he finds nothing, I don’t pay anything. If I order a repair on the basis of a suspected cause, but if I don’t want to participate, I can pay anything. Picking up and returning my vehicle must be at his own expense. As a help, I’m sure, if I want to report a better list.

I’m proud to be the owner of a 96er 850 GLT – 2.5 20V with automatic transmission. I’m very satisfied with my Volvo so far. A living room on four wheels. Simply very relaxed travel/cruisen. However, for some time now he worries. He has idle running problems. The speed suddenly slows down. Sometimes he goes out. I have an odyssey through workshops behind me. So far have been changed: Lambda probe, LMM, throttle flap pot, throttle flap was cleaned, oil trap/flam sieve were made, ignition cables, spark plugs, ignition distributor cap and runners are new …. … Error is still there. Now I have observed this again very closely. Here my problem description: If I go off at first show no problems. Only after about 15 minutes of driving it goes off worse. First thanks only the speed drops short, then it always gets worse and the engine dies even if I don’t give up fast enough gas again. However, if I don’t do it all the worse then the brake bit.

Hi! I made a bargain yesterday and bought me a set of Brock 18 inch rims. 8J 18″ ET 45 – I think this should fit perfectly on the C70 with 225/40/18, right? 5mm distance discs are also 4 pieces around 😉 But now the question for a very subtle lowering – what would you recommend? I have the KAW springs in the V70, that is far too deep for me. Is there springs with 30/20 depth that really achieve that? I don’t want a “Hangingearsch”! I also read something from spring plates that you put in front to win a few mm, or is that not available at the C70? I am grateful for every tip and above all photos of your lows! What would you like to change with the springs? Dampers should stay – but how does it look with cathedral bearings etc? Thanks! LG Peter

Hello everyone, first of all a healthy new year. After the problem with my V70I TDI (Bj.99, 370tkm) worsens more and more, I have to ask for advice. The problem is this. For some time there is a steering resistance when I turn left. It is a short jerk that has to be overcome at about 15° to the left. The problem seemed to be temperature-dependent (motor cold). Now it also occurs in the warm sand. It seems to me that the resistance gets bigger when I brake and turn left. If the resistance is overcome with a jerk, everything works well – only in the area of the resistance at about 15° to the left just does not. To the right there are no problems. The workshop master said that the steering gear is over and I brewed a new one. Someone knows the problem and has a tip for me. Greeting, Anton

Hello Elchgemeinde Am today with my V70 I TDI and caravan on the way into the holiday through the Spessart, as a loud bang somewhere under the car ripped me out of my vacation dreams. First thoughts, V-belts torn though the Greäusch did not come out of the engine room. Shortly afterwards the MKL lit up. Lack of alternative I drove further, engine runs around it seems to him but lack of passage. I have to drive him higher up to be able to move my team through the area. Suspicion: Kat / Lambda in A…. Question 1: How far can I drive with it, can I destroy anything with it? Would you like to return home on Saturday (260 km) Question 2: Is it perhaps something else that I can fix myself on a campsite on the Main without a big look? Question 3: Can someone in the zip code – area 97845 Neustadt am Main recommend me a fair workshop, which does not try to “use” my emergency situation with defective train vehicle many, many thanks in advance for your help Nümmi

Hello, I have linked out the error codes today with my Volvo 850 2.5 10 V, year 96. The following result: 1-2-1 outdoor air temperature sensor, short circuit in mass 1-2-3 interior temperature sensor driver side, short circuit in mass 1-2-4 interior temperature sensor driver side, interruption or plus circuit 1-2-5 interior temperature sensor passenger side, short circuit in mass 1-3-1 channel air temperature sensor driver side, short circuit in mass 1-3-2 channel air temperature sensor driver side, short circuit in mass 1-3-2 channel air temperature sensor driver side, short circuit or plus circuit 1-3-3 channel air temperature sensor passenger side, short circuit in mass 1-3-4 channel air temperature sensor passenger side, interruption or plus circuit 2-2-2 valve position sensor for driver’s side temperature sensor, short circuit against mass Can anyone see a connection? The heating / climate control system is at once failed. When switching on ignition, everything goes on, but then the LEDs flash for a fault (AUT and REC) and nothing more.

Hello dear members, first of all a hello to everyone – I’m new here and need immediate help. Since I’m a female, I’m asking for an idiot-proof choice of words in your answer, car terms are mostly not familiar to me So, I drive a Volvo V70 I with car gas. On car gas it doesn’t run more and more often, i.e. the acceleration drops out or the car beeps and switches to petrol. After spark plug replacement, which unfortunately did not bring any improvement with it and after even the MKL started, I am then in the specialist workshop: Defected coolant temperature sensor. Well, exchange should run again. Now I have seen in the net that such a sensor is available for almost 30 euros, but the workshop requires 150 euros for 5 minutes of work for the installation. If it were possible to repair this on my own fist? Sure I would also have male help, but this would not be from the Fach, but at least I can have the STandard stuff like tyre and spark plug change itself. In addition, I would like to know which temperature sensor you can recommend for a VW70 BW.