Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello all, I drove my Volvo 850 to the Rep. ramps a few days ago (rain break) because I wanted to check the tank ventilation (tank lid is hissing again when opening). I had used an active coal filter (thanks to Eigen2) a few months ago – because this one was missing from me. That also worked until recently – now it’s hissing again. I think that the EVAP valve no longer works correctly – the pipes and the filter are ok. I found a lot of oil under the car on the block. I also noticed an increased consumption of oil. About a year ago the crankshaft-case-ventilation (= oil trap) was made. Since I had time today I then immediately dismantled the rails and the intake manifold – since I could not see anywhere else a leak. From the oil trap – more precisely from the short rubber hose (above) is by a crack the oil “defleucht” (the hose I had not renewed – shit ! ) – someone knows the spare part number at Skandix o.ä. ? Should I also renew the oil trap again ? What is with the rubber sleeve below – also renew ? – Actually yes – if now ‘mal everything is off ! What is their order number ? I please politely for tips ! At the intake care I noticed a hose that goes into the motor nirvana – that can not be correct !? – Or – See picture attached – Where does this have to be plugged? Thank you Udo

Hello I have the following problem. We had removed the engine. After about 2 weeks the problem began. When the engine starts running at some point all control lights start to light up. They then go out again at some point. And that always in the change. I switched off error memory. Solenoid valves in hydraulicakregat no voltage, brake light switches defective or interrupted, pedal displacement device defective short circuit on mass or plus circuit, warning light interruption or short circuit. Can not also solve it I checked all the connections again, but I didn’t find anything. Did one of you have any idea what that could be? Because we can’t drive with it because the battery is not charged when the control lights are on.

Moin, regarding my T-5R, I am standing on the hose at the moment. If I start the car in the morning, everyone is quiet except that the hydros clack a bit. After a short time a strange “snoring” starts, which comes from the direction of the automatic transmission. But I switch from P to R or D everything is quiet. Only in idle it says P and N snorts. What could this be?! The second question, the Bock does not bring full power. My 2.0T is noticeable researcher to work. He builds himself kei Is already shameful when a 325i is sawn… and when a tacho is 200 at work. Normally he would have to bring 235 loose according to Schein. Thanks for the help ;-).

Hello professional world, after changing the cylinder head gasket, my Volvo (B5252) jumped immediately… in order to run more and more restless during the test drive and to stop after about 3 km. No start possible/not started any more. After a long search crankshaft sensor replaced with new part. Volvo jumped immediately, then s.o. remained in the same place. ADAC, towing! Apparently a lot of unburnt petrol got into the exhaust. Anyway now still burns The Lambda probe display. I run out of ideas. Does anyone else have suggestions?? C.M. Oh yes, camshaft sensor was replaced by new part after damage to the head.

Hello brothers and sisters in the spirit. My seat cover has been torn or opened in the area of the seam (seat area) (I can’t judge that yet, since it’s still installed) It’s a V70 1998 – automatic machine with seat heating and the beautiful (grey gray) “Edelvelourssitzen”. (yes – you’ve read correctly … EDEL-Velours! … not everyone has done this :-). Someone once told me that this is such a “hot shit” … that … well … probably the one … Now I want to pull off the seat cover and sew it from below. Here are my questions. 1. If I completely expand the seat, I will probably have to separate plug connections that are relevant for the airbags. If I pull them off – then expand the seat and drive it without a seat for a week and then install it again and plug in all plugs – then everything is fine again, or any error messages stop, respectively. Lights that I can’t get out again? (Battery will of course be clamped off early (before seat expansion). 2. Somewhere I have read that the seat covers are glued with the seat heating – I could not sew them from below. Can you confirm this or deny it? 3. Does anyone have a leaning for the “seat pull-off” if necessary? 4. Why can’t I find a single suitable seat or cover in the bay for 1 1/2 years? have been?! Normally everything is courted there. Alcantara is almost omnipresent :-). Or…has any of you still got the seat covers (only seat) of driver and passenger seat? Greeting from Münster Ralf

Hello together… Had already written that my air conditioning system is not running very well. Have now finally had the errors read out and deleted. The errors in detail… -B1 1-3-2 channel air sensor driver side -B1 1-3-4 channel air sensor passenger side -B1 235 valve switch for convection air -B1 325 valve switch for convection air active for too long -B1 411 blower motor mech. or too blocked by overcurrent (by new replaced / preresistance also) -B1 414 barrier air sensor driver side (extended) t and cleaned) -B1 417 Static air sensor passenger side (expanded and cleaned) The errors were all deleted, but it didn’t bring anything. The Werkstattt tried it again with another control panel, but it didn’t do anything. I wrote behind the errors above, which we already did. Unfortunately, I can’t classify the first four mistakes at all. Someone an idea?

Moin together, I haven’t been in touch for some time now but I don’t forget you either. Unfortunately, my old man has a “little” woe and we are now dependent on your advice. It happened that I and Mr. Moose were together on the way to work. So far everything has been so normal. After I left the highway after a kilometer and just wanted to turn onto the road to the workplace I heard a very suspicious crack under my car. After I turned off the car and looked under the car to control it, I got the picture that I hung up here. Such a crap, broken directly. And so? I know someone who can weld it cost-effectively, so I only wonder if that’s worth it. Especially since the same pipe was welded in about 20 to 30 centimeters more than a few months ago. How much would it take to get into the car? cost an exchange when I do it myself. Do you need spare parts? I am currently dependent on the car as soon as possible, and as loud as it is not moving an inch. I thank you for your advice. Greetings to the round Marv Edit.: my mistake, the Volvo is a 850 from the year ’93, i.e. Vormopf, with the 2.5 liter 10V engine.

Hello forum, I can get a 850 Kombi Bj.96 diesel for “a taple and an egg”. Rather, I don’t know myself, except that he has 400,000km on the clock, but has always been cared for (workshop and so…) and one year TÜV has.with a set of Winter+Summer. 400,000Km…….what is a “apple and an egg”? How does it work with the taxes…….? Thank you!

Hy, and again the sad topic that I have already taken up 2-3x, but now it gets serious. Since my other car is standing longer in the workshop, I was forced to do “all” ways with my flicker. So my broken back in the A, because the original NiveoSport suspension is too tight, despite new cathedral bearings and Stabi ect. So we have already spoken (written) of the opener about “thread” suspensions. Often the topic was, that with our already older V70 a KW nevertheless to t yours seems (at least where it is cheaper for the V70 II as I saw it). Of course I would also like to have installed a KW, but the prices………. That’s why I have looked at so cheap thread suspensions, http://www.ebay.at/itm/351475578540?… Some have also meant that these wouldn’t even be so bad. Well, my questions, since I’m still not sure what to take without spending crazy sums (the installation and cathedral bearings like track adjustment etc. you also have to set correctly. – What would be the cheapest prices for a KW 1 or 2 that you have found, or where do you get? – Is it really true that you can’t adjust the height of the KW at the HA? – Which favorable coilover suspension can you recommend or absolutely advise against it? Are there any other tips? I heard that I have to renew the cathedral bearings, because I have installed the original Niveomaten. Thank you ! (Möchte/must really buy) Oh yes and then there is the original Niveofahrwe. rk for sale, if you are interested in offers via PN lg Jerry

Moin On the other hand, I would need some help with my V70 2.4T Bj 12.98 changed the driver’s seat, the new one no longer only has two cables for the seat heating, but with one three…black(mass) red and one yellow. –What is the yellow cable for, because I only have red and black on the vehicle side, I have to put it on red?! And then the whole thing goes into a black box and from there to the hot mats first. –What is this box for? And where is this sit? z the thermostat installed?! also at the back?! Would be very grateful for any answer. with warm Volvo greeting Günter Q