Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello, I want to replace my current detachable AHK with a new star. The reason is that Zughagen doesn’t go down any more anyway, furthermore it is slightly to the right, noticed when I had the bicycle rear carrier on it and above all it is very rusty under the car. There I can already pop off the rust is 2 – 3mm thickness. Now the question to you, which manufacturer, except the original ones, can you recommend? Do the what from Ebay? Not that this one after a yes You start rusting again. e.g.:http://www.ebay.de/…/121073526542?…

Moin, who wants him, the sticker? I talked to Sandy, he can put on a small series. Div colors (white, silver, red, yellow, blue) Size: like the OE sticker from the SIPS, which stuck on the rear window at the time… Gluing from inside or outside Price: 5€ per piece + 1€ Porto In this thread orders can be collected and in 14 days from today Sandy then throws the plotter. So that now (hopefully) countless single mails with him I have this in the hand So all those who want to enter such a sticker here in this thread with color request and whether glue inside or from outside. I then send PN with account data and expect in return addresses 😉 Then I can pass all data to the production and shipping as “order processing” … Well, let’s go! Markus (Auszimmerdame der Produktion ;-))

Since this morning, the MKL has been shining. When reading out, he says “lambda regulation outside tolerance” , which is a classic and has something to do with my gas system. But now, the “lambda probe – error signal” is new, which cannot be deleted. And not with the Delphi, the flashbox or by cohesion of the battery poles. Does anyone have a tip? Both to the background of the error and to the deletion. The probe is from Denso and approx. A year old.

Good day, this is my first post and I’m pretty new in the Volvo community. I have a V 70 Bj 1997 gasoline /automatic 104 KW 270,000 km With me the service signal lights up. We can read all the ECUs via OBD II except for the engine control unit. This is not possible for some reason, there are no errors indicated. Otherwise everything seems to be fine. I have now written a repair service because the car the exact symptone as on the n Homepage described shows and wanted the engine control unit to be repaired there. However, I was told that I should have a workshop checked beforehand if it really lies on the control unit. Described Symptone according to homepage: “Different failures of the engine control unit, the vehicle no longer starts or goes out during the ride. The vehicle wobbles and runs restlessly, it comes to ignition oscillations. Usually also the yellow error indicator “motor electronics” lights up. different error codes – depending on the defective output or you can no longer communicate with the control unit ECU can no longer be read out” I only get to wacklern and the car runs restlessly between 80 – 100 kmh. Since I want to make a longer tour through Europe want to have the whole before repaired. My question, is there anything else that I can check before in such a case, whether it is really the engine control unit? Many Gs Rüße, Roland

Hello guys, wanted to summarize here again what I could find on the topic of warm start problem. I have not found the actual cause of my 850TDI yet (unfortunately). Spoken solutions: 1) air in the fuel system (I checked, found nothing – point 6 speaks against) 2) temperature switch change (made – did not bring anything) 3) magnetic switch on the starter defective – starter must be dipped (really?) 4) ECU defective (priced) 5) have read somewhere already, that the OT-Geber (sitting under the ESP on the engine block) does not work properly in the warm state, but it is expensive (80Euro) and Pkt. 5 speaks against it. My experiences, which avoid the problem: 6) push the car – jumps perfectly at 7) briefly start (Motror does not start), then just leave the ignition on AN for about 1 min and again start attempt – usually someone else works an idea – together the problem would have to be circled in and solved, right? (there unless it’s really the ECU – I don’t want to change that for cost reasons) Gruss, Eduard

Hello Reader & Helper, I have a problem with my recently acquired V70, year 2000. I am now driven 4Tkm and am very happy with the car…. except for a little something that might be a bigger problem. I have problems switching into the first gear when I step into the clutch. The first gear only goes in with a lot of resistance. If I switch to the third or second gear before, then the first one goes in better, but not 100% light. The problem gets over. If I brake the car to a standstill and let the clutch kick all the time. The first gear then goes wonderfully easily in. But as soon as I release the clutch and then step again, I have the problem as described first. If I stand on a slight slope and the first gear does not go in and let the car roll only a few cm forward, then the first gear also goes wonderfully lightly in. I was at 2 Volvo dealers. The first wanted me the Kuppl The car has only 94Tkm on the clock and is, I suppose, driven well in front of me. Can someone possibly help me further? Thanks, Mario

Hello dear Volvogemeinschaft, with my V70 there is engine oil between gearbox and engine flange (distributed to approx. 50-100cm2). Overnight a small “puddle” of about 5cm diameter is created on the ground. Unfortunately, you can’t see where the oil comes from exactly. It’s fixed, it doesn’t come from above the engine. A check on the lift confirmed this. Also, the ZMS from behind (area towards the engine) is not oiled. I got 2 opinions, which a meant Simmering crankwel Since the repair now differs considerably financially (possibly with ZMS and coupler in the same way when the gearbox is off), I would like to have advice from the expert beforehand, which may give me a clue what it might be more. I know that remote diagnostics are rather difficult, but maybe it will bring one or the other even further. Unfortunately, I don’t have any photos right now. PS: Is there something in Weimar, Erfurt or Jena + surroundings like a Volvo community for technical and self-and-inander help? Greetings, a Volvo fan!!

Moin Moin, for the first time to say hello to all Volvo drivers…. I have been reading and hoping to find a solution to my problem here. But it doesn’t fit everywhere… I’ve had a strong rattling when braking from the HA for about 2 months. This error is faithful and always there. When it first occurred, I’ve read out the error memory. I’ve got bugs in it. U a valves in the ABS block broken. That was changed by me now. Error memory deleted and see there.. Error code 142 The brake light switch is known to be the brake light switch.Disks in the rear are without rust, but have light bars, but are only 20 000 km inside (Volvo Original). Now my 2 questions : 1. What causes the rattling and how do I eliminate it? 2. Is it really only the brake light switch? Have no desire to replace blue haze div parts….

Hello Elkfriends Since the very latest, my elk has been jerking like crazy. The car can be started perfectly but as soon as I want to go it jerks and makes the impression as if the engine runs partly only on four cylinders. What I have already controlled or changed – ignition cable – distributor fingers – ignition distributor cap – ignition coil – spark plugs (Original Volvo, looked good, i.e. neither damp nor burnt off – have changed them anyway, no effect) – injection nozzles – fuel Relais – Gasoline pump error is not saved, slowly I run out of money and imagination. Due to the symptoms I (with the help of the free opinion of the mechanic around the corner) simply excluded that it could be the throttle valve or a defective cat. What I could make out here in the forum as a possible error source is the camshaft sensor and the fuel filter. Can it be that a dirty petrol filter can have such effects? Does anyone still have Another tip for me?

Hello, I drive a 96er 850 with the B5254S ( 170hp suction cup ). As a battle vehicle I have a 850 AWD with the B5254T ( 193hp Turbo ). I would like to completely overhaul the turbo engine and then install it instead of the suction cup. This is not my first engine replacement, but my first one with a Volvo. Therefore I have a few questions. – I assume that the engine fits purely mechanically “plug and play”. Of course I also have to install the cooler from the Turbo and the LLK. s right? – Do I have to replace the complete motor harness? – Can I use the transmission from the suction cup? – Can I keep the braking system from the suction cup? The whole thing should be properly done by TÜV. – Do I miss anything else? If someone is wondering why I want to do the work because of 23hp here a short explanation. I plan to prepare the whole vehicle gradually after the engine change for an increase in performance (brake, chassis, etc. ) to in not too distant Zu The goal is about 230 to 250 stable, everyday horses. Thank you very much for your answers. Greetings Fuely