Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello forum participant, with my car, Volvo V70, BJ 01/2000 2.4ltr, 103 kw, burns the engine control warning light. Error readout brought to the friendly : front Lambda probe, fluctuating signal. The friendly called up his price for a Lambda probe on .. frighteningly high. I have now installed an original BOSCH Lambda probe (universal sonde, matching lt numbers to the engine), the cable properly connected, while working the battery disconnected so that the fault spoke R is regenerated. LEIDER …. burns the engine control problem lamp again!!!! After the installation started, everything ok, no lamp. 100 m driven: LAMPE. Now my question: 1.) Can an original, new BOSCH SOnde be defective? 2.) Is it not enough to clamp the beterie to delete the error memory? 3.) Does the friendly person therefore possibly have to reset the error memory via his diagnostic device? … I exclude the wrong installation of the cable from the probe, because ic h made this step very conscientious. My current concern, conjecture: In my car already the new 2.4 liter engine is installed, as it is inside the V70-II. EVTL. I now have a lambda probe of the “old” V70 engine although the free part dealer has also determined the “right” BOSCH number from his system. I have this thought, because the VOLVO number on the old SOnde is a completely different one than the 4 , which BOSCH states as comparison numbers. I hope for a few good e Tips and answer and thank me very much for the help. Greetings Hensch

Hello, an acquaintance thought it would be useful with my Volvo 850 2.5 10V not only short distance and every day 13 km to go to work and 13 km back (over land), but sometimes with 170 over the track (so 100 km ). And that regularly. We came to it because my engine oil (also after the oil change) is so funny white-smoke on the oil measuring rod. The workshop master says it would be ok and the engine would not pull water and nothing. Maybe it would be on winter operation and on the short work path. Is it really possible that this short work path (constantly speed 90-100 / without traffic lights and crossings) has a bad effect on the engine, the driving performance, the idle????? I actually feel that the car sometimes jerks and swings at slow speed at low to medium speed. Only when you give gas the rocking moose calms down quickly again.# What do you mean? Thank you very much!

Hello Together Unfortunately, my last Volvo 850 2.5-20V GLT automatic lacks the manual and I would have a question regarding the winter program. Now that it is a bit cooler outside ( – 1°C – 0°C) an orange arrow always flashes in the tachometer and you drive very modestly. I believe he then drives in the second or third gear. My question to you is: Is this normal ?? Or is something broken ?? Can you turn it off ?? And if yes, how ?? Thank you for your answers. C hris

Hello, have sold my Volvo 850 2.5 10V with LPG system from 2008 vehicle BJ.: at the end of 1996 with 192,000 km for 5600 euros. I thank you for the many great help and conversations. I already lack the car a little bit now, because it always ran great and never disillusioned me. the next one will be a V70, 2001 , 2.4T. You can see yourself in the V70 forum……. ALL GOOD !!!!

Salü Together. I’m actually at home at the Saabforum… But since I need a “favorable” winter car I hit a 850 2.5 GLE. He has 310000 down and has automatic! The rim was made last at 243000! Brakes at 284,000. He has a trailer. And he’s from MFK (tüf). He wants to look at it tomorrow. Test driving is not possible, the cooler and condenser is def. because a marten has found its end! (wild damage) Cooler I would have found on the demolition. that replace solte ncht the problem be! So and now my questions: When should the ruber be made again? What else would I have to pay attention to? It should not be a luxury car but it should be reliable! Thank you for your answers and greetings from Switzerland. Stefan

Hello Elk friends I have a question.I am currently driving 5w40 and would like to switch to 10w40. Is this advisable or not. Thanks for the answers.

Moin, somehow I made it now. My battery is all ;(. Fzg: 850er 2.5, petroler, BJ. 96. Nothing works anymore, so neither ZV nor indoor light. If I get start help (by second car), how many km do I have to drive about, so that the battery gets enough juice for the next start? Do not have a garage for the car at the moment. Where could I charge the battery? Thanks!

Hallihallo, I had asked the question here some time ago whether it is possible to see whether increased oil consumption is due to the valve shaft seals or the piston rings. I have now such a guess, because I noticed that it is a little blushing at the cold start. It is not much, and wg. of synthetic oil also not really blue, but nevertheless clearly recognizable as burnt oil. Now I am something in the grinder. Oil consumption (at least with me already about 1 liter on 23 00-2500km) can come from both. The bluish actually only comes at the start, which rather speaks for VSD, because the oil seems somehow to seep into the combustion chamber. Since with standing cylinders in principle the piston rings dissipate. During the ride blazes nix, but the oil consumption is there, which can of course also be due to worn rings. So, what then? Performance is also lacking him by the way. He creates with effort 190 tacho instead of the specified 205. My Vorbes itzer doesn’t seem to have handled the engine very carefully, otherwise I can’t explain this with this comparatively ridiculous mileage of about 224tsd… Anyway, any ideas?

Hello Motor-Talker! First as a short contribution: V70 I Diesel 312,000 km. Drive off from the parking lot of a supermarket – after 200 meters, straight on the fully driven road, he went out of the engine. Fortunately only a few hundred meters from my front door. Without previous kicking at previous best. Before had been several thousand kilometers on highways. Total output now 312,000 km. Of course, the change would have been due already in the spring – but both thumbs ve Test: Starter runs well – no hard engine noise – does not start. El- voltage at the pump: Yes! – line dry. On diesel with the atomizer it runs for 20 to 30 seconds. Timing belts heal – which at the pump also – with closer inspection there are missing 12 pimples ! – all. Better the belt at the pump, than the one for the valve control! Now both are replaced, the tensioning rollers included. So much for the engine failure. Should I do this myself or look for a workshop? How much euro do I have to put in for it? Could you please send me a few lines on the correct settings and special features that need to be taken into account when changing the timing belt on the V 70 I Diesel? Now I look forward to your mail!

Hello Elk friends, I would like to hear a few comments about the quality of workmanship in the interior. As indicated in the title, there are some troublemakers in my quite many corners. Just a small list as a clue: – Sunshades / lighting unit squeak at every unevenness – glove compartment crunches in curves and buzzes more recently at temperatures below 10° depending on the speed (only shortly after the start) – frame of the intruder in the middle vibrie with 1500rpm under load – cracking from the instrument cluster – crackling in the entire rear centre tunnel (i.e. from the handbrake) – squeaking of the luggage scooter or backrests That first for the beginning. What does this look like with your mooses? Do they have a similar sound backdrop?? Do you have experiences how to fix this? I am grateful for every tip that makes another noise!!! Interesting would also be the materials you use (filt-like adhesive tape, silicone spray,…) Perhaps still as an info, I drive a ’99 V70-I 2.4T with almost 120tkm. Greetings, proudi1211