Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello, I greet everyone. I need help from you and thank you in advance. I’m in love with Volvo V70 Second generation (1999–2007). I want the car with diesel engine. What kind of engine would you recommend to me? I didn’t have a Volvo before. I had Renault, Peugeot, Skoda, but Volvo is my dream. I live in Czech Republic and friends say: “Buy Skoda Octavia TDI Kombi.” Yes, that’s not bad car, but Volvo I like much better. M a question? First of all, I heard that Volvo has expensive spare parts and repairs. What problems, investments can I expect if I buy a Volvo with about 200,000 km? How much can I drive with the engine? I want to use the car for about 3-5 years. I don’t suffer more than 7,500 – 8,000 euros for the vehicle. What should I control when buying? What do I usually have to check after buying? What can it cost on average? I want d buy a car in Germany, I can’t afford a car dealer in the Czech Republic to win me money. Besides, my friend has a workshop and I know that the speedometer pulls off and falsification of the customer service book is no unknown behavior in many people. Where can I find the car? I know ebay, scout24, mobile.de…? Yes, I know many questions at the beginning. Other questions, so later, I look forward to your help and I hope you have understood my questions. Gr uß Jan

Hello together, looking for a suitable moose and my ever-recurring questions I have come across this forum. Certainly this topic has already been discussed in many topics, but I really did not find 100%. I am going to sell my current car in a short time and am looking for a replacement as it has always been a favorite of mine, I want to take the step and get a V70. Now comes the catch. Unfortunately, my budget is limited. t (< 4.300€) and therefore I can only afford a V70 with relatively high mileage. Does anyone have experience in buying a diesel or gasoline engine with a mileage > 180,000 km? If so, what do I have to pay attention to when buying? Do the engines hold for a while? Or is it advisable to buy another model? (What would be the very last option for me, is a dream car) I would also be interested in whether a petrol engine or diesel is worth more nowadays (running power per yes hr zw. 25.000 – 30,000 km)? Especially the question has been answered very often, however, answers with regard to my question would be great. So the high mileage and the current tax development of diesel models? Maybe someone even knows a V70 which is currently sold and in a good condition ists I thank everyone already in advance for the efforts and hope to get great and helpful answers.

Hello, two days ago I bought myself quite spontaneously a Volvo 850 Kombi, 106kw, built in 1997. I have long swarmed for Volvos and had the impression to have made despite some defects with this now a good opportunity and purchase. The flaws are the following: optical, medium hail damage with approximately eurostück large dellen, but what is still in the frame is in my view, two quite visible scratches and one with closer look; technical defects are that the gear shift et which is cumbersome, but you get used to it quickly, the rear tailgate (combi) no longer stops on its own and what makes me worry the most, that the ignition has a wackler, it starts without problems, however, the lighting and interior lighting always works only once you shake at the key. Since I have to now with the dare to tuv, it makes me worry the most, as already said, because also so electronic things are usually very expensive. I was able to trade the price from 2400 euros down to 1800 euros and think that this is not a bad price, at 115 000km. In addition, many important repairs such as timing belts, crossbars etc. have been made in recent years. What I noticed afterwards was that the rear two side belts clamped, which could probably give problems at the Tüv. I am clear that these have to be put in order one way or another, however I would be happy if I could My questions are now: 1. Was the price reasonable? 2. What could this have on me with the wobble contact? 3. Where can I get cheap, but good spare and wear parts like brakes? Thanks already in advance!!!

moin, have there 2 motor themes to my volvo: for some time now the good start problems, if you want to start it again shortly after the cold start after a short drive. the cold start after a longer break, over night e.g., always works perfectly. is immediately there. if I make an interstop to fill up before a longer drive and the car has been driven almost 5-10 minutes, it only jumps very sluggishly again, sometimes even completely drains off and is then only after After a long standing time, it goes again. after a long drive, it also jumps directly. the workshop has in the following ignition coil, candles, cables (approx. 2 years /30,000 km), distributor (approx. 3 years /50,000 km) checked – those were probably in order – and finally installed a new crankshaft sensor. the above described problem remained a 2. problem is perhaps related to the first: the car has an above-average oil consumption or loss: about 2 years ago, the cylinder head seal including all the simmer rings, oil trap and their supply lines plus gasket have been re-made by the oil filler. since then, I have had a rest for a while. but in the meantime, the motor oil presses from the filler nozzle (despite the relatively new gasket) and also from the oil meter. the engine collects under the plastic cover every quantity of oil in the depths in the course of the time. from everyone’s foundation too much oil pressure is built up. the workshop attributes that to the high performance, cover and only by a complete revision of the engine to fix, ergo exitus… the car has now run just over 400.00 km. was that now? I have always worked the last years against the repair and would still be the one or the other. others invest, but no complete engine repair. does anyone have an idea for this? am grateful for any advice!…

Good morning together, I have recently been the owner of a 96 Volvo 850 Kombi (106kw) and in total, despite the mileage of 290.000km, very satisfied with the car. However, the tyre approvals give me some puzzles. I have already searched the one or other older thread here in the forum on this topic, but this has contributed to the confusion. To the previous story: My car got fresh Tüv before the purchase and indeed with summer tyres n the dimension 195/65R15. When I found out that there should probably be no clearance for this, I contacted two well-known technical testing organisations that carry out HUs and got the information that the mentioned format can very well be driven in summer like winters, because it is a wheel/tire size allowed within the ABE/EC type-approval. However, only on 6.5x15x43 rims. In this context I am here in the forum about folg The following document has been stumbled:http://www.motor-talk.de/…/Attachment.html?attachmentId=696871 Does this mean that I can only drive the aluminium wheels listed in the document in the specified formats? However, I have “only” original Volvo steel wheels of the specified format. Here in the forum I have also read several times that there is, if at all, only a release for winter tyres of the dimension 195/65R15, also I have read something of required steering limiters. confused – maybe you can help me get some clarity!? Thank you in advance and a nice Sunday! MfG Jablonski

I wanted to know if I could mount a bumper, a V70R, on my V70 (Mj.99). Shouldn’t it fit, right? If so, someone knows the part number, so that I can look around, or find out a price. I would like to upgrade the look of my vehicle in terms of… ..I have come to the funnel, with the clear glass C70 lights, now too… Thanks to you here!

Hello, I was at the dekra today and did not get a “TÜV”. On the rims there is nowhere the ET so that the examiner can also assign it according to his statement. Because in the ABE there are other Volvo vehicles with other ET’s. Since I left the rims powder coated I just thought that it might be somewhere under or was sanded away. I also told him that… he also showed the calculation of the rims where also the ET, description of the rim and my name on it. I drove home and had one rim after another down and on every spoke in the back you could read everything nice only no ET there…. then I ended up at a spoke two raised circular surfaces and there just once with a screwdriver the layer made unfortunately no ET, but not now I have ratted up and down the report and solved the puzzle. in the report stands that the ET on a sticker attached is… about google I found a rim from my manufacturer like this sticker looks… the thing is a normal sticker that probably at my age the rims (1,5 J,), apart from the coating would have already blessed the time long ago or would not be readable at all. so what do I do now? is this really so important in the test that the ET is checked? :/ everything else is really easy to read

Hello! Yesterday it actually caught me. I get in, want to start the car…nix…Everything flickers short, after that the BC/ECU (however) is reset. Battery removed, 1.5h charged and then it ran again! What measures are there, what is recommended to isolate the battery? I read a lot of Styrofoam, which is placed around the battery and fixed with adhesive tape. Does this actually help=? I thought of glass wool spontaneously… I really don’t feel like a daily, morning trembling… Since I have to take the children to KiGa and then quickly continue to work!

Hello people, my air conditioning system has been blinking for about 20 seconds when I start the car. It works normally, but flashes still, i.e. the air and air conditioning led. after I searched the forum, I hung my obd II device on my elk and read out the errors. That’s a device from the internet that allows you to read and reset errors. I used it for the first time, but it looks like it works. That’s why it was funny that no error was displayed. e… Is it possible that this flashing can only be a kind of indication of a service of the climate? The service lamp in the speedometer has been shining for some time when starting, because a view is due. How can I actually reset it?? I have been living in France recently and am very unsure about the Volvo dealers here after I have seen a workshop from the inside. do you have experiences there? Are they as good as in Germany or rather French? ösisch laissez-faire? Many greetings Stefan

Hello, now as with many my glass sliding roof frame rusts, because the seal was leaking at the impact. As this is a known problem, I am somewhat surprised that there should be no new frame or the whole roof at Volvo. Well, it is a 99, but I have other brands standing there, which are older, and the parts still exist…. Used, but they all look like my…. Does anyone have a tip where I get the part new? Thanks mfg Jerry V70/11/99 Mod.00