Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Maybe someone knows well-known/suspicious places…? Have a frequently occurring annoying snoring in the dashboard since long ago, left of the instrument block, approximately behind/under the left air nozzle. It occurs partly when driving (by uneven ground conditions), but sometimes also in idle, due to the vibration of the engine as “resonance noise” at different volume levels. If I press there in the left area (no matter where) in any direction slightly or The “Ruck” when starting the diesel usually causes a proper “cracker” that you almost get scared (that almost sounds like something is breaking) When I put pressure on the dashboard, I can also provoke the sound myself. I wanted to get to the bottom of it now, but I found no source. Despite the tried-and-tested driving without dashboard covers and instrument block. I tried sillikonspray from all possible directions, even through the screw hole in the spray wall – without success! Unfortunately I can’t get away the air channel of the left air nozzle behind the tacho, which takes the access and the view exactly to the place where I suspect the knarz source. I also can’t get very well from below. What else can I try, and how can I remove the air channel without destroying it? Thanks e search

Hello, I recently had a cooler damage with cooling liquid loss. Before I could replace it, another driver was on the road without noticing that hardly or probably almost no cooling liquid was in the system. Only when it smelled after burning oil it was noticed. So the engine was heavily overheated. I now changed the cooler and first pretended nothing had happened. Shortly afterwards he lost cooling liquid over the now loaded balancing tank. Have a new one now, but I’m sure it’s pushing exhaust gas into the cooling system. Now my question…the engine is made of aluminum, do you think it’s only going to be the cylinder head gasket or did the engine take more damage? I’m thinking about repairing it in my own direction. Would I like to hear something from you on the subject.

For the last week only warm air comes from the driver-side ventilation nozzles. The regulation is almost zero, no matter what position. When I start the climate, cold air comes from the middle nozzle, from the outer nozzles undiminished warm air. If I close the outer nozzles, the air gets warmer in the middle. On the passenger side everything controls 100%. As a fault I get the error 321 ” damper for driver-side temperature controllers too long I had already removed and replaced the valve control motor before. But nothing broke. The motor rotates in the developed state without any problems. In the built-in state one hears a buzzing when the temperature is set higher. If it is placed smaller, it regulates the jerky down. I guess, if it takes too long, the error comes 321. Currently I am with my Latin at the end. Also the merciless temp. regulation when the climate is switched on is not really possible for me. lar. Why does cold air come from the middle and there is air outside? What does the whole mechanism for the flap adjusters look like at all. The whole thing is certainly installed in the plastic housing. Does anyone have an idea?

Hi guys, today something particularly stupid happened to me. I did not really have anything in the bad, sometimes the nuts try to pull after the cracker. It came as it had to come straight away the first mother from the standing bolt on the engine block is torn off. I then did not touch the others. What do you think this also holds or should one possibly put a sweatpunk? The bolt is flush to the cracker. If then at some point a seal change is due I hope the It would be nice to hear that I am not an isolated case and that some of you are driving around with a cracked stand-up bolt without anything happening. I am grateful for every information! Grulo

Hello together, I also have been in possession of a Elches 850 station wagon for 3 days, year of birth 1995. I just re-registered it yesterday. Search for a cargo space cover that my “Brother Tuck” unfortunately does not own and a rep manual. Does someone have something somewhere that is no longer needed? If it is not too far from Düsseldorf, I also get the cargo space cover otherwise Hermes would be quite good. From the previous club, I had a BMW E28 year 1983, ken I found that there were people who collected the data of the still existing ones, therefore also here: HSN /TSN: 9101 / 701 VIN: YV1LW5102s2147593 Kilometer level: 270,760 Color: Flammrot Metallic CheckbookWell maintained Upcoming repairs: Tachoritzel and a few pears Thank you all in advance, also for the fact that I could read all the information available here in the forum before I bought the moose. Had a 240 in the beginning of the 90s, so already a little tested with the r Attitude of the ungulates. Has it had its first run out with me already on the weekend from Berlin to its new landing in Düsseldorf. Are there here with you among the moose holders also so occasional meetings? Greetings Krony

Moinsen love Volvisti, at the moment I am in a lot of stress with my wife. Nevertheless, I don’t want to let myself take it again this year to let the annual barbecue on/in my screwdriver hall* to find. The weather should stay quite constant for the next 2-3 weeks, so I use the opportunity and throw as an appointment the Sunday.17 August 2014 into the room. Start could be so around noon and I think until about 23 o’clock the last should then also be satisfied his welcome, as always, is all owners with partners/children/dogs etc of a Volvo 850 or V70I, as well as C70, whether with or without a roof. Also no matter whether a “girl engine” or turbo. Grill I have, a box Coke, Fanta, Sprite and grilled charcoal I also sponsor. Cutlery, meat and salads, breads, sauces etc. please everyone bring with you. You can also shop on site in the ReWe. Would be nice if everyone is interested in the annex here. Just quote this post and se in their own name. People, it’s summer!!!! Markus * exact address is available on request via PN. Postcode for a route planner is 21698 thread for grilling 2012 -> http://www.motor-talk.de/…/…-18-08-2012-naehe-hh-t4047415.html?…Oh yes: It should have the character of a cricket more than a screwdriver’s day

Moin, I’ve been having an annoying problem for some time now that the handbrake (in the meantime every time) does not resolve, if the Volvo, no matter how long and in what weather, has been switched off with the handbrake tightened. If I loosen the handbrake lever and start before starting, you notice the light pull of the brake, but you don’t hear any grinding. If I then pull on the handbrake lever again during the ride to solve it, it bangs 2 times and the brake is obviously solved. At first only sporadically appeared and then at some point permanently. During a workshop visit I pointed out this and the hand brake has been cleaned and reworked. The improvement effect lasted a few days and then became a permanent problem again. At the HU a month ago I pointed out the workshop again. Again it has been cleaned and reworked. This time without any improvement effect, but with an additional whistle after the 2 times banging ( I guess the handbrake needs to be renewed. What do you think about it?… A second problem, also for a long time, could possibly be related to it. I can sometimes notice a rhytmic, dull, quiet grinding noise that comes from the front of the passenger side. Rhytmic, because between the sounds is always a short break and the loop. If frequency increases with increasing speed. Even at slow speed in urban traffic, the noise in the interior is very low. If the window is open, the noise will NOT be better audible. In order to stay on the topic of “doof search”, I would describe it loudly as “wupp, wupp, wupp, …”… Because the noise is amplified while cornering, I spontaneously tapped the wheel bearing. However, it strengthens both at right and left turns. Ic h had already a defective wheel bearing a few years ago in the older 850s. However, that sounded completely different. It was rather a hum and vibration and only became stronger in the curve, which burdened the bearing. Unfortunately, I can’t offer a sound recording, it’s really too quiet. Strange is that it doesn’t always occur… So, now I’ve made myself really ridiculous with my sounds. Now you come…

Hello! I have a problem with my Volvo V70 BJ 1999, petrol with manual transmission: It consumes since the newest 1/2 liter engine oil on approx. 100km. In the workshop they had the suspicion that the engine burns the oil because they can not see that it flows out somewhere. After measuring the exhaust gas values and other clues (like no blue smoke) they told me now, however, that it looks like the engine is fine. We are now making an oil change and driving d ann for diagnostic purposes 300 to 1,000 km with a lot of oil in my luggage to see how fast it goes away. Does anyone have any idea what it might be? Has anyone had similar experiences? All in all, this sounds pretty bad (and pretty expensive for me). Unfortunately, I’m not a car expert at all and hope to get advice from some of them! Thank you!!!! Linda PS: Maybe I should say that the workshop also found out that a Simmring (?) on the gearbox Because the car also loses transmission oil, and the hoses of the crankcase ventilation are porous. However, I understood them in such a way that these are no reasons for the strong engine oil loss.

Hello dear community, now that the money for holiday jobs is there, I am once again so free to bring my moose further to the front.Becoming: -new exhaust system (middle silencer) -loudspeaker in front door+D-pillar -Hydro bearing -3.brake lamp Now to my questions: I have 2 possibilities with the exhaust: -original for 312€ -the plant of Walker for 165€ Does anyone have experience here with the plant of Walker? The main thing is that it lasts so 10 years. At the moment it is just high school I’m not sure why I’d rather have a small buffer. Later on I’d like to get a stainless steel system. The rest is already regulated (thanks to chaos1994 ). With the brake lamp I have only one question: does someone have this clamp flying around, which holds the lamp in position? Is this number 20. LG, Tim

Hello together! Someone can help me? In my V70 I (Bj 1998) a Radio SC-805 is installed (radio and boxes from factory). 1. It happens again and again that the radio becomes mute when braking for about 1 – 2 seconds. This happens again and again, but is not reusable. 2. With the same car the left boxes (front and back) are put out again and again completely. Also here completely irregular. It is also not vibration – or knock dependent. I have already paid 2 hours of troubleshooting in the workshop -> unfortunately without result. Both mistakes occur since I bought the car (it was then 8 months old). Reliable as one is often, I am not immediately in the factory saddle and later the guarantee was over. If it doesn’t want to help neither knocking nor driving bad roads, on the other hand it happens even at low speed on the best roads. It would be great. if someone had tips for me.