Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello Schrauber, I am in despair. I recently switched on the motorway to the turn-off track from a traffic jam, gave gas and had to there immediately again into the iron. After that a Fiepen came from the engine compartment and it did not attract so well any more. But then I drove a good 150 km. A day later I stayed after approx. 20 km drive. No matter in which position the shift lever is in, no drive. From the transmission came no cracking or similar. Can this lie on the switching valve or Is that something broken? Thank you for clues. oz

We have done “it” and bought a 850 elk (we call it a club ). ( EZ ́95, KM 433000, paint damage, dent in the rear door, Euro1, 2.5 petroler, switch ). Restful and many invoices about repairs ( approx. 2000,— in 2 years ). Will our project. Cold running regulator installation is Prio1 -378,— tax is not possible! We continue to report Steffi and Thomas

I have a problem with my Volvo V70I 2.5 106kw/144ps. And I lose quite a lot of oil. To a certain extent this was due to a defective hose of the crankcase ventilation. However, it is repaired. now I cleaned everything from below and looked at where the rest of the oil comes from. The identified place is when you are under the car in the seam between the oil tank and transmission. I actually wanted to dismantle the oil tank to give me a better practice. However, I had not got an oil tank seal and now I have to drive again urgently today. But will the tub remove the days and have a look. Now to my question: Has someone had something similar before? What does it look like when I took off the tub? Is there possibly a gasket that I can simply renew? Can someone help me with suggestions? Please No Job messages I thank you already and add here some photos of the said place .

mealtime, I would like to have new dampers for the back flap of my C70, mine have become extremely difficult with the old. now almost the blow hit me when I found out the price for it: sporty 50€ per piece, and that itself about ft-albert, since also for him only original to refer. 100€ for 2 gas dampers forbids me my certain. at ebay you will find about 30€ for the couple. but: do the what? and: are installed in the S and V the same dampers as at C? the lower part of the con. construction of the rear parts negates that, or am I mistaken? and something else: I have now lost the first bulb in a switch on the a-board, over ft costs a 5€. you get the somewhere cheaper (conrad or something?!) and I can change all, or do I have to pay 5€/pcs and buy only one? mfg

In principle, I had agreed that the tailgate doesn’t go very high. Only my wife constantly bumps her head into it, which leads to constant annoyance. At my buddy, who has the same car, I noticed yesterday that the tailgate rises at least 10 cm higher. I can easily stand under there. Are there various dampers? The current ones I had installed 7 years ago, I had you from FT-Albert.

Hello everyone, even if the topic “change brake discs themselves” is often viewed in an ambivalent way, since this is a safety aspect, it is one of these activities, which can be handled with craftsmanship, the right tool and best with appropriate instructions in word and image quite easily. I have already done this on the rear axle. Now I have to change brake discs and pads on the front axle. The Haynes is already there as a pdf, but I hope that there are a few specialists who have a workshop manual with the sector “brake disks” for my tank. This is a 850 2.5 10V automatic combi, year 06/1996. Thank you very much. I’m happy to be able to help you with this.

Evening, my dear ones, can one of you tell me THE secret recipe, how best and most gently to get a fully developed engine of OUTS? It is quite oily, in some places also covered with a rather stubborn dust-oil-dry-sminder. The aluminum also has in some places these ugly white salt stains. It is not completely disassembled, only the head and some attachments are still dismantled. The possibilities known to me convince n me somehow not all as right, like e.g. cold cleaner, steam jet, oven spray, brake cleaner, acetone, kerosene, marine clean, pergasol and what is not still available. Some were probably quite successful with biodiesel, whereby he can not really cope with rubber parts. Does anyone have experience with the dry ice jet process? Am something overwhelmed And if we are already at the topic, what about the conservation afterwards? Greetings

Hello dear Volvo friends, for a good 6 weeks I own a V70 Kombi, 2,435l/196PS Turbo and Automatik, Bj.11.99, Mdl.2000 Actually a nice and spacious car, but the consumption spoils the whole fun. When I bought it, stood at 2400km, 11.3 l on average in the computer, at an average of 43km/h therefore mainly urban traffic. —————————————————————————————— Now without overland trips in the tank phase, stood at the let I have to say that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact that I am not aware of the fact. I only noticed, the water temperature is still very low in relation to the scale even after 15 minutes. Thanks already in advance for tips and your information about consumption greeting from Wuppertal silbersurfer60

Good evening to each other, I am looking for a beautiful C70 T5 of type N. However, I am concerned with the all decisive question, which of the T5 engines I should buy. I have selected 3 different T5`s Photo 1 is a convertible with the EZ 2003 and has the 245 hp B5234T9 under the hood.(How is this one different, has a larger turbocharger or another camshaft?) Photo 2 is a coupe with the EZ 1998 and has a 239 hp strong 5-cylinder r under the hood. Is this a B5234T3 or another, because optical changes to the posterior (photo 3) are visible, such as the cover of the timing belt. Photo 3 is then also a coupe with the EZ 2000 and also with 239 hp. Now my question is: Which of the three motors is the best and how different these differ among each other. Thanks in advance and a beautiful Sunday evening still Michael

Moin It is a V70, Bj 2000, 170hp I removed the throttle cap earlier in order to check the seal in search of false air. I noticed a hose that disappears behind the throttle flap under the suction bridge. See photo. Can someone tell me what this hose is for and what it is good for? Thank you for your help.