Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello, last week my Volvo stopped at a traffic light. Suddenly the engine went off and did not start again. The called ADAC looked for the error but could not find anything. The only thing that could be told to me was that no ignition spark comes. He also checked all fuses, but they were fine. The ignition coil is new. The ADAC had the assumption that it was the crankshaft sensor. In the workshop it was then changed – but without E rfolg. My “screw” no longer has an idea after he has tried out a lot. I then drove to a “Sweden workshop” for error reading. No error is shown. Since the car also has a gas system, I am a specialist for gas systems and have described the problem to him. He says that it can not be the gas system, because the car always starts on petrol and when no ignition spark comes, it can not be on the gas system. Does anyone still have an idea or would really be grateful for any idea, because I would like to drive the Volvo for a few more years.

Moin I have the problem that with my 850 2.5 10 V the battery was discharged two times overnight ! After that I have now charged the battery, measured the rest current which was at 0 amperè And the generator power checked which was at 69 amperè at 2500 rpm and all consumers ! The battery is charged with 13.8 V ! Well my question : on the generator is a range of 55-100 amperè specified under what circumstances does it supply 100 amperè ? And are my 69 amperes i.O. ? oll area are the 69 amperè yes ? Thank you very much Julian

Have a cheap offer (complete set levelling set Volvo part number: 9124841) and a question regarding conversion. Do you need a special tool for the removal of the old springs or for the installation of the longer thinner springs? How are the experiences? Is it possible with other means? Would I be happy to be a skilled hobbyist (but not a specialist) with tips. Grazie

Hello dear Volvo friends, was now with the HU and the CO2 value was at 4%. However, this can only be at 0.5%. In addition, with my Volvo V 70, year 08.99 the motor electronics light lights up. This goes off once in a while. I will have a diagnosis on Do. Who can tell me what possible causes this could have. Dear greetings, Handis.

Moin, and I have a question about a 93er 850. I changed the brake light switch as well as the pedal sensor or sensor, and then deleted the errors from the FS, thought everything Tutti everything fine, now the ABS lamp burns permanently in AI. Error memory on A3 -> 1-1-1. What can be now? Before the FS was extinguished, the lamp went off when the ignition started, too.

hallo@all, have a porblem with my bonnet or with the lever(s) on the front side of the car. if I pull the lever in the inside room, then lift the bonnet a bit………. the little lever is not to be seen, but fades back. what is the problem ? with a photo. this is a small spring with which I don’t know anything. gruss loeckchen

As I wrote in advance, I’ve been looking for a Volvo V 70. One of them, the V 70 of 97 with 295000km mileage and 144 hp, I’ve been trying it out for a few days now, from a friend of my parents. It makes a very good impression in itself. I drove it for 2 days in the city and road traffic without any problems. Yesterday I went on the highway for the first time. On the way to about 120 km the car ran smoothly. On the way back I had a problem however. Ic h try to describe it as well as possible: At some point I had to switch to the 4th gear and wanted to accelerate again afterwards. Normally it is with the accelerator pedal that one pushes it dosed down and drives the car forward according to the strength of the pressure. Yesterday, however, it was so that if I wanted to give full throttle and pushed the pedal through, no corresponding increased speed increase took place but I put the pedal through In the first few seconds, however, the car didn’t attract very much and out to the rear (gas pedal was about 1-2 sec. fully pressed) only unfolded its full power. Until the first gear, it was the same for all gears. In the second gear, speed up = accelerator pedal fully through 2 sec, then it starts to pull. In the third gear, “” In the fourth gear, etc. I always have this only when the car is warm. I start it in the morning and drive only 15 min. the problem does not occur and it accelerates evenly in all gears and according to the pressure of the accelerator pedal. Motor lights also show nothing. What can this be. If you have further questions for more detailed description just write. Thanks already!

Hello guys, I’m looking for my C 70 Coupe the two corners of the window frame of the rear window, sitting up left and right, or but the part number of the two corners, my friend can’t find the part. Greeting Peter

Moin, have a 850 from 1994 with B5252S engine. He dies stump off at idle, however, differently fast. Sometimes not at all. If you pull the petrol pump relay he dies slowly. Interesting is that the gas train was so tightly turned that the DK at the zero screw had almost 2mm distance which I disliked. Did it correct with the result that if you give a hint of gas from the zero position of the cars so exits. If you quickly get over this point he runs away. So fal I can run it in idle mode and also drive it (on the farm). As already mentioned, it goes out sporadically in idle mode. I measured at the pot of the flap but unfortunately no comparison car and no values. No. of the Dk is: 3507526 and the number of the pot is: 0 280 122 001. Would like to measure if it is so ok to exclude this. I have now clamped a light bulb in parallel on + and – the ignition coil. Let’s see what happens then. Vllt it is yes also the KW sensor!? Greeting Joe

Moin together! The thread title actually gives everything, but I like to explain again: I have a 92er 854 with 2.5l 20v machine as automatic. The car has (ununderstandably ) just got new TÜV. But I have a number of problems with the car and would need expert help to make an inventory of the necessary repairs. I have already invested a lot in the car, am also willing to invest another rod money if I only knew, where and above all, in what order (what is the most important thing?). I try to describe the problems of the car I know: 1. Car goes sporadically at the traffic light or in the “roll to the traffic light”. Passes me very irregularly, sometimes 2 times a week, sometimes for weeks not at all. Presumably a dying camshaft or crankshaft sensor or something like that, but doesn’t know how to test it. Gasoline pump relay is just new 2. My entire chassis seems to be front and rear Sometimes it squeaks in the curve (probably my somewhat “strange” transverse stabilizer), the driving feeling is rather spongy, on the rear axle I have the feeling to drive with leaf springs, because I feel that it is very hard, on the front axle it pins down to the steering wheel pure with the smallest unevenness etc. In mid 2013 he got new crossbars, new coupling bars and new crossbar bushings 3. I guess at the rear right still a “feeled” brake caliper, If the wheel is mounted, the wheel can be turned much heavier than the others. If you use the statement, whether you can work the caliper still or better directly for another. Brakes are made complete in February (covers and discs) front and rear (all original ATE). At the TÜV on the “Rappelbühne” he has done well, however, there are various things not in order. I would drive the car further if I did not invest thousands of Euros now. I screw as well as I can, but I also know when I can’t get any further or when I should let a professional get on. I would, if someone from the Cologne area finds himself, who might help me, rent a self-screw workshop with a stage, so that you can (after an extensive test drive, maybe it is so hard from home? ) take stock of what is going on with bushings, dampers, springs, saddles, stabis and bearings. Then I can decide, what is the difference? I just don’t trust myself. Maybe someone knows someone who knows someone? Of course you can talk about financial compensation for the trouble… Greeting 850-SIG