Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

I didn’t find anything in the search function, so new question: My V70 T5 with Nivomat and Volvo sports suspension hangs about 2.5 cm lower on the left and right. This difference remains essentially the same whether loaded or not, i.e. the Nivomat on the left lifts the vehicle higher when driving, but not at the level of the right nivomate. Can you change it with spring exchange (beside) or are there other reasons (rubber bearings, etc.)? Does the influence on the driving behaviour? I may be a little oversensitive, but have a bad feeling when braking in fast motorway curves: the rear seems to push outwards. With rental vehicles I drive from time to time, there is no such impression under the same conditions. Matthias

Since I would like to buy a V70-I with automaton in the medium term (see my request in the marketplace here) I of course look here and there for ads and their hopefully diverse pictures …. I noticed that there are 2 different switching columns from the optics. See attached pictures in lousy resolution, which one can hopefully recognize. Are these now 2 different backdrops for the same transmission or are they 2 different transmissions. I think rather the latter, because it would have to be a 4-speed and on the other hand a 5-speed. Was it optional or is the model year dependent? Can someone make me smart, which gearbox it is exactly, which Vor / Nachteile has and what the ‘Knöppkes’ each effect ?

I think I’ve only had bad luck since last week! First, a car mechanic makes 10 hours of my car around to replace the Stabibuchsen. This morning I parked my car at “my” tyre dealer to change the 4 new tires that I already had in the trunk. He said that I should come back in 2 hours. (That’s always like that) Then I went back towards noon and the car was standing in the parking lot with the new tires on it. I paid and went to the company and parked there. In the evening I go home and what do I see when I make the garage??? ? Back at the shock bar paint chipped off. I am 100000 % sure that this is not from me. Below the splinter I still have some white “color”. Looks like some pieces have been lying around. What would you suggest, what should I do now? Become on all the wheels tomorrow, look at the tyrer, what if the pieces were still lying around?

Tach zusammen! To prejudge it, I don’t like to do polemics here, as I have seen in relation to this topic in some other Unterforen. Rather, I would really be interested if someone from you would exchange his old elk (for whatever reasons) against the 2500 toads and a yearly or new car? As far as I am concerned, this is not possible. I only put 2650 flakes for my old, faithful bumps down last summer. In relation to the age and the condition of care at takeover the good runs really super stress-free. Even the comparison with my previous equipment he can not only stand up, but even surpasses most, as far as unsolicitedness is concerned, even clearly. And since I don’t have to make monthly advices, the insurance favorable and the tax payable and the consumption is also quite ok, I am absolutely satisfied. Since I am sitting in the car later quite a lot and also the various new creations again, I can make a comparison with comfort. And since I have to say that I have not had to drive in the same car with no more than 850.

mealtime, until Sunday evening you have time to think about the following: in the neighbouring forum the demand for a stainless steel system from OBX is discussed with 2(!) downpipes (straight, angled). to be found is the whole here -> click me hard – lt. a forenmember, which has already installed the same system, should be the good material and provide good fitting accuracy – 3″ downpipe (as I said, 2 pcs.!), 2.5″ exhaust system – KAT each has to weld (let) – no ABE or anything else! please note!!! – sound samples are available at youtube – other tailpipes can be welded (let me make, in original I don’t like) price 350$ (ll. will be some more $ cheaper) shipping around 85$ (more accurate follows) anything between 7% and 13.9% duty EUst …at the end of the day around 400€ complete. if I have more info, but I still have to make this evening thought.

Saturday, at the end of the week, the first time the driver-side window went down, but no more up. first at the X-ten attempt. since then, the whole thing happened several times, sometimes you press the switch 20 times and then the disc goes up again. today, the whole thing went without problems and the first time. something was with the switch units, I think to remember. but does this also apply to this problem?

Hello first of all … I’ve registered here by a friend of mine, that you will get good advice if you need something. Have myself a Volvo V70 built in 1998 2.5 TDI which has already been 380 000 km down. I wanted to change the timing belt now. Since I don’t know so well I wanted to ask if it is enough if you change timing belts with tensioning roller and turning roller? Or should you change other parts too? There is still the V-belt and the V-belt and crankshaft … have no insight 🙁 Please now for your help and experiences…

Hi, I have a workshop appointment tomorrow, but I would like to ask you about my problem for opinions, the following problem: My V70/1 slows unevenly, I don’t know if you can call it jerking, it’s like an imbalance and you really wiggle back and forth (that’s really hard to describe ). When I bought it almost 3 years ago it was extreme, then the brakes were made and it was almost gone, but only almost, never really. Now it’s become stronger again, just when you’re on the road longer and it’s warmer, it gets so extreme that the whole car vibrates, that’s really bad. Does anyone have any idea?

Hi, after 220tkm my windshield is in urgent need of replacement – stone strokes / glass bursters, scratches, the bars are already loosened. The TÜV has already mobbed, but was just still kulant… The offer of the local glass shiner was absolutely outrageous – €750, of which over €450.- alone for the disk. I wanted to search for the first time, and see if I at least get the disk cheaper. To the info: Bin not Kaskoversichert, but Barpayer! The search for a front panel for the C70I Coupé remained however unsuccessful in the net – the Limo/combi disk definitely does not fit. Neither ebay, Google nor various Volvo-specific (Skandix, scanimport, JuTu / alberet etc) or Generalist-partisans have listed anything for the C70I Coupé, only for the Folvo C70II with folding roof from ’06 (from approx. €230). HN/TN 9101-778, production date 02/2002, C70I Coupé half a tip 2.4T. Hatting ring?

I have been having a very annoying problem for quite some time: my brakes squeaky like an old freight train as soon as they get warm. Piston New brake calipers completely overhauled front and rear, absolutely light and resistance-free running, sliding bolts new. Everything greased with suitable means. Flooring Textar, discs Textar each new (previously ATE, has squealed the same) sliding surfaces and co ATE antiquietch paste (no difference to ceramic paste or copper paste) I am somehow at the end with my Latin. PS: brake values absolutely at new car level, no delay, absolutely uniform, no matter which brake. Brake fluid also new, system completely rinsed and ventilated.