Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Recently, after a long time, it was again at a Volvo workshop for the 240 TKM inspection. The timing belt should be changed. What did not happen was the simultaneous replacement of the WaPu, as this should not have been necessary. To this end, I received later from another car.-Master the indication that an age-weak WaPu carries the risk of destroying the timing belt in case of a defect, which in turn could cause an engine damage. I exchange the WaPu with the corresponding follow-up costs (approx. 450 €). Is this risk really given, so the proposal should be followed?

Hello together, Actually I was already sure that I would like to screw 17 Zollr on my convertible again. I am no longer so sure anymore…. Whether not 18 inches look better. I have already used the search and found this thread which is already quite old. Therefore I want to open a new one. Does anyone have experiences with 18 Zollr on the convertible? The previous owner had the convertible lower by 30mm. Should you rather put the 17s on it or change it Do the 18 customs officers not change the driving behaviour negatively? Thank you for your answers!

Hello dear Volvo community, for those who now seem familiar, I have started the article with the Volvo 850 t5 ́96, which has no spark and no fuel. Since I have already got everything I will keep here for a short time now… I have volgendes problem: motor turns, all sensors function (all crosswise exchanged with my second lch), fuel arrives in the rail with the nozzles and also 3 bar, MKL lights up, MSG functions and is also second working available , I have a working antenna ring, no bugs in the memory (as far as that’s all I could turn out by various means). Nevertheless, the injection nozzles do not get a signal injected and the ignition coil does not spark. The symphtoms look to me as if the immobilizer has no desire or both keys have suddenly forgotten their signal… Now my question: is there someone who has already experienced this? can you find out if the S If no can I re-learn them? Or does someone know how to just put the immobilizer out of combat? Look forward to your answers Greeting Lucas

Evening together! 3 weeks ago I bought a 96er combo for my soda (see signature). Actually I wanted to sell the soda then, but at the moment I am glad that I still have it, because: Yesterday with the combo on the train at a slim 140Km/h. All of a sudden the MKL goes on without further symptoms. I immediately went down to 80Km/h and the next parking lot. There the hood up and all vacuum hoses, as far as reachable, checked whether something went off. For me reachable plug connections also sometimes all checked from time to time for corrosion. Nix. After that gently with 80Km/h home. Today I wanted to take a closer look at the thing. I checked again all accessable plugs, without finding out. I started the car several times and turned it off again, each to check whether the MKL is still burning. At some point I gave up and then discovered the following behind the car: The moose has completely toasted the road (see pictures) and can say the following: – The stuff is quite dry – Looks like oil coal for me or something What’s certain is: the oil trap is closed. Because I did the glove test today and it blows up nicely, besides it presses oil out of a simmering. Then I removed the flame screen today as a first measure. That was before the first start. Can this come about? I can hear you already say: error read out! Yes, I also do, as soon as the already ordered electronic tunes from Reichelt and the OBD2 plug for the Blinkbox to be built, promised Who has an idea about the reddish moose? Greeting 850-SIG

Hello, I’m opening a new thread now, after we had this somewhat hijacked. I have now taken some photos, which show how these scouring spots are created. The culprit is the emptied “hosen rubber” on picture 1, which ensures that the fold does not collapse as intended (picture 2), but much less (picture 3). This leads to the scouring/fixing hook at the console for the lid stop and to the scouring points at the top (picture 4). On picture 5 you can see If you know that the upper part of the stop rubber has already been broken (and the console probably bent a bit).

Moin, in our convertible the SRS-light went on spontaneously. Error 412 SIPS-Bag on the right signal is missing. Then I looked under the passenger seat for a short time if the plug is still sitting correctly. Error tries to delete and car restarts –> Error is set immediately again. The phrase “SIPS-Bag on the right” has already made me a bit stubborn, because otherwise driver / passenger side is written everywhere. In the VIDA I found this sentence in the search now: “Airbag module, passiger sid “And: “9206303 Airbag module, left, driver’s side 2000- C70 Conv (-05), 2000 SIPS bag C70 88 9206304 Airbag module, right, driver’s side 2000- C70 Conv (-05), 2000 SIPS bag C70” –> Does this mean that cabrios have a SIPS bag in each seat on the left and right? Greetings, Nok

Hello. Recently I bought a V70 2.4L from 1999. The engine warning light was on, and the buyer showed me a printed document from a workshop, in which they read out the error code as “P1671 injection valve voltage too low”. It could also be “voltage too high”, I did not have the document right here. However, if I look on the Internet, all the information I find refers to a control valve problem, not to an injection valve problem. Today I have the control valve changed (I bought it from eBay, not original from Volvo), but the engine warning light went on again. Now I wonder two things: – Could it be that I connected the two cables wrongly? In my original plug there were no numbers 1 and 2, only in the new plug I bought from Volvo. I think I connected the green/orange cable to the pin 1. – Could this error not be caused by the control valve, but by the camshaft I have found some forum threads on the Internet that suggest this as another possible cause. I would say I sometimes hear a click noise from the area in which this sensor is placed, but I don’t know if this could point to a problem with it. Apart from the fact that the engine warning light concerns, starts and runs the car very uniformly. It’s mainly a problem because I have to pass the TÜV and that can’t do so, solan the engine warning light is lit.

Hello together… 🙂 I’ve been wanting a V70 for a long time and I found one in the net…. It’s from 1997 and has 336000 km, but runs well and would have been from MFK. The car has been exchanged and has a new petrol pump …… I heard Volvos running EEEWIG but is that also so ?? I am very grateful for hints 🙂 Oh yes and how is that with the maintenance costs ?? I have now a Vw Passat 2,5 TDI 4 Motion and I have read a lot of problems. However, runs the so far good and has 194000 km. What would you do ? Keep the passat or buy the Volvo ?? Gruss Nina

Hi, I’m new here and I need your expertise. I’ve searched everything but found nothing suitable so far. Short to me and my car: I, 26 years old and beginner hobby – screwdriver drive a 850 2.5 10V with 144Ps Mj 1996 for two years with a Kme Nevo car gas system. Drive the car for over two years and so far no problems, only the usual care and the usual wear. Now I have for some time, especially when it’s cold outside, strange Dre The speed always jumps up and down in idle mode. Whenever the engine is still cold. Sometimes it goes away on its own after a short time and the speed is normal again. Sometimes it remains permanent, so that only a new start of the engine fixes the problem. The whole looks like this: https://youtu.be/-pU8hWNylQ (I know the ABS lights up, SG is in reperature) In addition (in case of a warm motor) the speed when accelerating is short. This occurs however very irregularly. For example: acceleration in 3 gear 2500 u/min and suddenly the speed rises to 2900 u/min and falls back to normal. Feels a bit like a turbo. The abnormalities occur both on petrol and on gas. Hope someone has an idea Dear greetings and Thank you

After my brake disc got quite hot, I brought my elk into the workshop of my least mistrust. The brake calipers had already 26 years on the hump. So new (Skandix). In addition, new pads and brake cheeks. Workshop set the hand brake as with every car. Hard and 2 clacks back. Result after 20km again quite hot. So at home brake rope loosened, brake cheeks fixed and again 5 clicks off. Brake rope set in front so that the lever at the 3 km clack the stop means. Wheel turned, track grind. Dangers, brake warm. Handbrake when turning off, again 15km driven, brake quite warm. Did I do something wrong? I would be happy about a tip.