Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello! We want to buy a reliable combination that does not have any unnecessary new-fashioned frills and is reliable. There the 850 is forced into the narrow selection 🙂 It is supposed to be a 5-cylinder petroler (126-170 hp). Such vehicles are rarely to be found with running speeds below 200tkm. How is this a topic for the 850? Which running performances are possible without major repairs (except of course of waste parts and with regular maintenance)? Are there any vulnerabilities? Are certain engines or equipment recommended? Thanks and greeting, aedificans

Can anyone give me the part numbers of the suspension springs (VA/HA) for the original sports suspension (-20mm)? The 855 is MJ95, has 106kw, automatic, climate control, cruise control.

Happiness On together, now in the cold season I notice a clattering noise on the gearbox side when the Volvo is cold. I have uploaded a short film for this:http://youtu.be/v6dS5v-nS04 When he has driven warm, you can’t hear anything anymore. What can that be? Differential? Have a little bigger game when changing loads. My guess is that a bearing in the gearbox is doing the screeches, which I don’t hope. Does anyone know that? Oh, about 320,000 km he has gone. Ronny

Moin an alle I’m looking for a bonnet for the C70. Since I’m hardly going to find anything suitable near here, I’m probably going to have to take my way. I have to transport this thing somehow. Now my question: Does the bonnet fit in the back of the V70 or is it too long? It has 154cm in width (it doesn’t fit). In the length 124cm, trunk diagonals are also 124cm (could go). Then he comes off the wheel boxes! Maybe this already has ma l someone of you tries and can report. Thank you very much Thomas

Moin an alle I wanted to report what experiences I had with the leather care today. The C70 had it necessary and before the damage became bigger I wanted to act. The leather cover was not broken yet. First: everything was ordered at the leather center, cost the fun about 90€. Order ran completely smoothly. As a color pattern I sent in a leather residue, which I once obtained from the scrap metal. As instructions there are on Youtube quite great videos. It is easy to understand….so just the right thing for me 😉 All the necessary mediums could be processed well and everything was running smoothly from the hand. I did the two front seats. The rear ones are still as new. I used about 1 hour with coffee break. I shortened the drying times for the liquid leather a little bit with a hot air gun. The result: Look at the photos and make yourself a little bit easier. in picture. Greetings Thomas

Hello Elkgemeinde, Mein Elch, a 850er 2.5L 10V with 144hp (EZ09/96) has been a few problems for me for a few weeks. To the course: Mainly I use the elk for longer trips or in the winter to come to our ponies. Now I noticed in the summer that it consumes unusually much. At 130 km/h partly 12-14l, usually around 8-9l. What made me stutzig, that he needed the usual 8-9l again in between times. Especially if you get the engine properly Now some time ago I noticed it by a stuttering, especially in the lower speed range. Speak when starting at the traffic light. The whole with a semi-warm motor. Sometimes I could get back to the right speed with proper gas and the stuttering was over. Once it went out of my way at the traffic light and I had to certainly leave 20-30 seconds of Rödeln until the moose sprang up again. Unfortunately the behavior was not reproducible. Yesterday then I had the same problem. He went out at the traffic light, I left the moose again. He didn’t want to go straight away. After about 40 seconds and two attempts at the start, he wanted to do so and since then the “Lambda Light” is on. Today the moose runs again. Grad the winter shoes pulled up and tested air pressure. In the forum I found different solution ideas, which unfortunately only partly fit. -Rosselklappe -Flammsiebe -Benzinfilter -Thermostat -Nockenwellensensor -Unpressurized system / Temperatu r the intake air switching in the air filter between warm and outdoor air -Zündverteiler -0-Stellung timing belts Unfortunately I don’t have an ODBII device and my elk no longer has the nice box in the engine room. Now my question to you, which system should I check. The ignition and candles are relatively new. This was done at the beginning of the year before Tüv. My personal guess goes towards throttle valve, flame screen and gasoline filter. But could be something with the vacuum system. from 21339 Lüneburg. Does anyone have an ODBII Elchtester at the start? Greetings

Moin moin, Auto: 850 T5 Kombi, Schalter, Bauj. 10-1995. am just a little bit at the end. I found with the SuFu nix more than the exchange of the gear. Since there is also the error with other Tachos I had looked there first. That was definitely broken. This VDO Tacho does not want to count partout. I tried at the three soldering points of the coil at the counter to measure what. Likewise with the mounted counter on the board, looks as if there were everything there i.o. My questions now: Is the impulse s, which stimulates the speed, the same as that which makes the counter run? Does the pulse generator therefore have two tasks? Where does it sit in the switchcar? On the gearbox? Or does the signal come from the ABS block? Can I measure an impulse at the green plugs of the AI’s and thus limit the error? Can the coil at the counter be operated manually for testing in the developed state? With how much volt? Greeting Joe

Hello Elkfriends I’ve had a very sad day yesterday: my 2000 C70 T5 with hand-operated gear has suffered a capital engine damage. ( I know it’s not worth it, but I’m still thinking about getting a replacement engine. But which one? Would a T5 engine from a V70 or S70 fit? What do I have to pay attention to? Does the vintage play a role, or the gearbox type or anything else? I’m totally overwhelmed…but I love my Volvo, and if I do it anyhow I’d rather fix it. THE MOTOR CLOTHING – THE GOODS (if you’re interested) – I’d like to explain to you as detailed as possible what I’ve experienced since I didn’t find anything about the sounds in the forum. Maybe it helps the next of you: everything started with a quiet clack that I noticed for the first time about 2500km ago. It sounded (-acoustically) like a metal part (screw or something) shaking around in the end pot. would, it was (rhythmic) regular and increased with the speed. At first it was audible only in 1th and 2nd gear ** between 2300-3000 Umin, and only with gentle (!!) acceleration (as soon as the load was increased or taken away, the noise was also gone. **With time also in 3rd gear). At the Volvo garage I was told that it was the clutch back bearing, which will be announced and eventually come. But this could take a long time, I should just drive further. Well, I have no idea of cars, but a great technical imagination) never really believed this, because there was absolutely no grinding noise, only this clacking. In addition, the clutch was replaced before about 30’000Km. Of a motor problem you didn’t want to know anything in the garage! I have read and searched a lot here in the forum, but found nothing. I thought about many things, if maybe the timing belt has a crack and a half torn piece at every turn. I was suddenly on the highway and I could hear it. At the next stop I stopped and called the Volvo workshop, because I was really afraid to continue driving. It was very surprised that this backlog had already “come” so quickly, but held on to the backlog theory. So I drove on another 20Km, because I had a K. On the way back there was suddenly a rumble, then everything was over. Down in the engine block is a fist-large hole. The garage, which towed me off, thinks there was probably a vacuum in the oil circuit (possibly by clogged sieve, defective pump, etc.), which damaged the conrod bearing and so on. Motor choice: Who can help me? I would be super happy for your advice.

Moin, I’m slowly despairing about suitable wheel screws to mount my distance discs. have ordered already 3 times which in M12x1,75 and each time came the on the picture (see attached) also the cone is much smaller but 60 degrees. in the rim they, if you clean the screws, do not seem to sit so stable on the surface because of the smaller cone. but nevertheless I could mount those on the rear axle quite well, sat bomb-proof! now I have the front dis but the screws don’t fit, I get the 2, 3 turns turned in and it doesn’t go any further… only with extreme force they can turn in somehow but did not let it be to destroy the winch. my original screw can be turned in until the end (see picture). the new screws are 35mm long. I now dismantled everything back and put the original screws on it again because I’m totally unsure now if they are suitable at all. not that I take a flight on the highway or my bikes. If someone knows where I get original screws in longer I would be grateful for a link. nice weekend gagi

Hello moose drivers! The following problem: the moose starts a bit offended after swapping of clutch @315,000km. Did I know before that the engine has started to jump, the process now lasts a little longer, but always comes. I suspect the starter, keyword worn pinion? Furthermore, I also have a partial No Start Condition, if you put the key in the starting position. Lamps stay in the AI, after two key rows it starts then nevertheless. Am currently about but would like to do it… thanks for input! Alex