Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello, I tried, among other things, to change the ABS ECU with a friend’s Volvo V70 (Bj 99) today. Since it always causes problems with higher temperaturs and I suspect that it has a defective soldering point, I had bought another used one via classified ads. So I solved the 4 E5 screws of the ECU, pulled the ECU down a little bit (was quite difficult because after 20 years the first time solved, I think), just to then determine The old control unit inside has 3 “records” more than the replacement unit, so action was canceled and bolted back again. I tried to solve the plug, but this was so difficult that I left it then, so it was never really removed. When starting the engine and the first meters I noticed that 1. The speedometer fails (including mileage, the total mileage is displayed nciht!) 2. The ABS symbol lights up 3. The red exclamation mark En lights up (second or third lamp from right, I think) 4. The service lamp lights up I’m surprised how can this all hang together? Is the ABS ECU connected to the instrument cluster that it can make such mistakes? I would be glad to help

The old Volvos keep “eternal” – you can hear that again and again. But honestly… Where is your pers. “border” at the mileage. Yes, I know, this is not primarily important, but even with a good condition and good history you have from one best. Kilometer level a strange gut feeling – no matter what price – or is it just me? Markus

?Moin to the country, I have the following problem: The tank flap can no longer be opened by remote unlocking at the driver’s door. I have already renewed the “pin” in the tank flap, since the old “pin” was already glued. Unfortunately this did not help. Does one of you have an idea like the problem to solve? At some point I will have to fill up again.

Moin Together, the groschengrab brings me still into thatelbige. Hardly a bug is fixed, ABS ECU, comes the next. It no longer jumps, or starts only briefly and goes out again. I have already found the supposed error source through the SuFu. There is also nothing buzzing when the ignition is switched on (fuel pump). However, even after bridges of 15 and 87 none. I then equipped the connections 31a and 31b with the voltmeter and started the ignition. 48mV ka nn is not quite right, right? Where do I have a copper worm in it now, or a mistake in my mind? Can the fuel pump relay be tested in which one gives on 31a and 31b 12volt (plus which one?) and then checks if 15 to 87 is switched through? I can read schematics in a limited way. From plug 4/8 pin 27 goes to relay 2/23. It seems to come out of the engine control. I stand again wonderfully on the hose greetings, Maddin

Hello together. My old moose (855 T5 1993) has been moving to the right for some time. At the beginning I didn’t notice that much, but at the beginning of the year 2 winter tires were due in front, both outside on the edge down. Well, the car had to be friendly anyway because of the door catcher and the CBV membrane. In the workshop the coupling bar was then changed to the right. The summer tires were then also jerky away on the outside edge. In the workshop one admitted then no geometry test but the car still pulls to the right. In a free workshop let geometry check again (picture hangs on). Back was not good, but was set. With the result that the car pulls even more to the right. In steering wheel middle position I drive a gentle right turn, for straight I have to steer slightly to the left. However, the geometry is correct according to protocol. e are baffled. Does anyone have an idea? Two years ago, dampers, cathedral bearings, feathers were made all around.

Moin, after 2 days of searching for the forum and reading everything with the keyword drive shaft, I still can’t get any further. My 96er 850 2.5 10V makes funny noises at the front. Dom bearings, spring leg support bearings, crossbars, coupling rods etc. are made, I had it on the vibrating plate – everything is great. Motor bearings have also been made. Nevertheless, “beat” or “polterts” at the front – rather right – and I can’t get on it. – especially nasty is a newly smoothed highway straight ahead, where nothing else wiggles or moves big. On bad roads everything is quiet. It is rhythmic, therefore also described as “knocking” – changing fast with the speed. Not depending on the speed. With right curves less than with left turns, subject wheel bearing – but somehow I type rather on the drive shaft. Ideas? Tips? Thank you in advance!

Hello everyone, my 850 GLE automat, EZ 11/1993 has the following problem after 7 months of summer break: As soon as the needle for the cooling water shows something, so the engine is a little warm, the engine stutters and dies off. as if you stuff the exhaust. After a few hours of break the engine starts cold again without any problems. I have now repeated the “play” for a few days. Only a lot of water came out of the exhaust. That seems to be gone now. What to do? Greeting from OWL

Hello dear ones! Suffering theme tailpipe at 850 suction cup. The original endpipe in chrome has been extinguished. The currently offered alternative of Volvo can be forgotten, the thing is rusted away after 2 years. Therefore my question: where did you get your tailpipes? I would like to have one in stainless steel, which lasts for a few years and comes to the original, see picture. Distance left/right: 95mm distance up/down: 75mm length: approx. 280mm in the middle of the slant. Mine is from a butcher the tube is 25 years old and has 500tkm behind it. Today it simply disintegrates into its single parts. That just looks terrible and needs to be renewed urgently. So you can not really be seen. If someone still has the original tail tube of Volvo, part number 31372149 that should be, with itself, and actually thought about selling it: I would be very interested and will definitely also pay the appropriate price LG, Ti m

Moin together…When we bought our Volvo about 13 years ago, he didn’t have a roof railing yet. I bought a used one afterwards, about 8-10 years ago. We did it on it at the same time and I didn’t think anything about it at all. I always felt liquid in the driver’s footroom for years. Sometimes more, sometimes almost nothing and sometimes nothing at all. Last March we looked up and the front left screw of the railing was pretty much The other screws were actually dry and ok. We then changed the screw(s) for new ones and also treated with “liquid threaded seal”. Then it was quiet again for a long time, but now I have moisture in the footroom again. I can exclude defects in heat exchangers and clogged drains from the water box. Should everything be ok. Can it be that a seal belongs between body and railing? The originals are available at Skandix There’s probably a universal one. Someone’s an idea how to get this under control and seal it? Or do you have another approach where the water could come from?

Dear Volvo screwdrivers! I drive a 850 T5R combo. A few days ago the still quite new battery (through the alarm system?) was unloaded after about three weeks so far that I had to bridge with a jump starter. Now in idle the light in the instrument cluster flickers, all lights synchronously. At the same time both bulbs of the front light failed today. I have now checked battery and Lima: Battery idle voltage 12.7 V Charging in idle 15.5 V Charging at approx. 2000 rpm 17-18 V (!) Charging mi t Load (light, seat heating, rear window heating) 13.2 V After this test, quiet hissing noises were heard from the battery (well because of the overvoltage) My diagnosis: Overvoltage from the Lima I suspect the Lima or the controller as an evildoer. How would you proceed? What should be tested or exchanged?