Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

When trying to open the window of my cabrio’s driver’s door, the window first went down completely. At the very bottom there was an indefinable noise and the window immediately went up again without a button up to about 75%. After that nothing happens when you press the button. All this on the way to work in the morning. After the drive home I wanted to close the window as far as possible. I noticed that when I press open, I can push the window up with my hand, so close. Shortly after, however, the window completely fell into the door…… The engine of the window lifter is running. I realize that I can completely disassemble the door, repair kit is also ordered and should be delivered today. I looked at the whole process from the vadis. I was concerned, maybe someone has useful hints that make the whole thing a little easier for me. n, any tricks that are not described. It has to be done, that is beyond question…. Thank you already!! Greetings of the Saxon

Hello on my Volvo V70 I Built. 2000 the door handle on the driver’s door is very smooth compared to all other doors. The handle in the interior but also the one from the outside. After more than 200,000 km this door was probably most frequently used :-). Can you change something there so that it is like all other doors again? I would like to change the speaker in the door soon. Since then the disguise has to be put down it might fit well to put it right back in order. TypeL

Moin, with my. 96er 855 the ABS is ticking. Originally I had two errors in it, left front and right back. Had already the module in suspicion, so sometimes after soldered. After that the right back was also away, left front remained however. correct, because there the plug was actually damaged (1 pin off). New plug is on it, just changed the sensor and cleaned the sensor ring (no break to see). Nevertheless, the error if I delete it with 850-OBD is immediately with the naec read out again as if I don’t get it deleted. Does that still indicate a cold soldering point? or can I measure the cable in any other way?

…..is now hopefully over… I’m outing myself…I’ve probably installed 5-7 used blower motors since about 2010. Always the same…after a few months the used engines were in the bucket and squeaked…. Now it’s come to me and I’ve built a new one from Hella/Behr… Hopefully there’s a long rest with disturbing sounds now…

I don’t even know which radio was originally installed on me – the previous owner replaced it with a DIN part of Sony. There are also only the four broadband(?) loudspeakers in the doors. So: Vanilla equipment of the MJ 1996. Since the Sony thing is annoying (ugly, unergonomic, radio is not working properly, and then this disgusting shut-down-pling sound!), I got a SC805 suitable in black. With operating instructions and code. Now I guess: It will not be reic Presumably, an amplifier has to be fitted, the more suitable eight loudspeakers have to be in doors, dashboard and D-pillars, and possibly the wiring has to be adjusted. Who has done this before and can give me hints? Additional question: Is there an interface with which one can realize an Aux input and/or an MP3/WMA player (from USB stick or so)?

Hello together, with my moose the previous owner unfortunately tried to color the front bumper somehow – in black. At least that’s how it looks. It’s definitely darker than on the sidebars and at the rear. There you left it to be lucky, after the front was probably only so moderate in the result. I have already treated the rest of the parts with Koch Chemie PSS and am completely satisfied with the result. Now is the question: Does anyone have an idea how/whether to color / the la ck gets so removed that the bumper is still to be used afterwards? Ideally, looks like in the original state of course. With what means was treated here unfortunately is unknown. I once attached two pictures. The greyish parts is original. So part of the coloring has gone away at some point. Greetings!

Colleagues I suspect my blinker lever to have a weak contact during the cruise control operation. Has anyone ever disassembled such a switch? Does one somehow get to the contact surfaces? With photos of the object of the desired disassembly….

My vehicle (850, 20V, 2.5l) just went out on the ride. When I started in Munich, he went out under the ride for a short time, but came back again. Now after about 400 km it happened again, but also went on again. After another 10 km then nothing went on. No spark of ignition and the tachometer does not move at the organ either. Do you have a piece of advice? love greetings Uli

Hello Volvo community! I have the following problem: The interior lighting only goes out with massive multiple door knocks. Logically … the door contact is defective! However, I did not find a pen switch like I used to at the Holmen. So assume that the control via a door lock electronics or something works. At cold temperatures it works better, because I can close the driver door completely normally and the interior lighting goes out. Questions A) In which part lies the Defect? B) Is self-assessment possible/recommended? or C) Approximate expense/cost for a workshop? What Dolly Buster would answer I already know … ;o). Greetings Dobrowolsky

Evening together, after a long absence due to family growth I am here again and have a concern. What do I do wrong with the upper feather plates on the front axle? I have now, since I have the yellow Koni dampers inside (about 5 months) 3 pair of spring plates “fried ” 1. Set: cheap stuff from the Internet = 2 months, broken 2. Set : Sachs from the Internet = 2 months, Kaputt 3. Set : Original Volvo from, from the S80 should be able to do a bit more= Driver side Each time the driver’s side, the Konis are neither turned, nor do I weigh 150kg. Or do I put this together wrongly every time? 1. Dust guard cuff 2. Spring plate 3. This cross nut (or whatever the name is) 4. Dom Camp 5. Plate up 6. Mother and done. Is it right or not? I even put the car on his wheels every time, took the plate and mother down again and pulled the cross nut.