Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello together, 2 days ago my V70 T5 engine went out during the ride. I drove at 100km/h on the highway, when the engine started to jerk and within about 10s outside. After that the engine started, but went out directly again. After about 30min the engine ran again (very rough and no power) and I could drive to the next highway parking lot. Incidentally, a Volvo driver came by with a diagnostic device, but that could not be Verbi After about 30 minutes, the engine ran back to normal and I could drive home 20km without any problems. The engine was idle for about 15min and I disconnected the battery connection to clear the fault memory. Does anyone have any idea what that might be? I’ve had the car for 1-2 months and had no problems at all. I drove about 1000km with it. LG Karim

Hello! I have a Volvo 850 and a problem with my left (front) windscreen wiper. After about 3/4 of the wiper distance the wiper no longer touches the disc. It looks like the axis of the wiper arm has changed. However, I have not yet figured out how to correct the arm. Does anyone have an idea? Thank you, Markus

Aaaalso It’s about a 98 V70 / 144PS / automatic with TRACS (again the daughter) The ABS error concerns me and also parts of you for quite a while. It all started with it, and the error is still today so that the ABS and the Tracs lamp sporadically went on (mistake read out, sensors at the back both exchanged, are now new). Then first the ECU (9162675 / Tracs) against the the forum control unit (9140773 / no Tracs) replaced. Error away. So my St. When I put it back in, the error 431 came (translated: General error in the ABS control unit). I Googled it all once and found out: Error code 431 means: “Inlet valve back right” “open circuit or short circuit” I can’t do anything with it. Can it be due to the different control units? One with, the other without Tracs. Can someone tell me what that means and how to continue with the error search now? e Measures: 1) Let the control unit solder. 2) Exchanged ABS sensors at the rear (after that the error sensor at the rear could no longer be detected). 3) Examines the plug contacts in a precise manner, uses no eye-catching contact spray. 4) Plugs tested for a fixed seat (locking is correctly hooked in) 5) Both control units are read out immediately after installation and all errors are deleted. I am grateful for any suggestion. Greetings Thomas

Hello fellow driver and Volvofans I would like to ask common sense here, when would the pain limit begin with you, where you would think to invest even further in your car? Each of you here plans spare parts and repairs somehow. Otherwise we would not drive these old Volvos. My car was just back at the friendly,(as every year) Tuv new and left a four-digit amount. Now unfortunately the next damage announces itself , costs about 2500 € and we have already pushed some small things up to the next TÜV. Again about 1000 €. As I said, I am talking about a car that has no maintenance jam. Maybe the one or the other writes his thoughts so inspiring that I get the desire to continue. LG

The passenger footroom under the floor mat is damp. However, only front, rear nothing, driver side nothing. What I checked: Large sequences in the engine compartment and the small one in front of the pollen filter: All 3 free and continuous. Climate water runs down. In the middle under the amplifier and box of the heater everything is dry, as well as around the flow of the heating box (the hose also sticks on). A musty smell is for me for a while (p aar weeks), so I don’t rule out that the main cause of the water break-in is already something. But the car has to stand out at the moment, and there is good and quick advice what I can still check. Does anyone have an idea? The front sequences of the sliding roof end again where? I mean that the kickpanel on the outside on the plastic lip had a drop of water, but above it (on the Lüfer and on the outer wall) everything was dry. And what about the A-pillar where more water could come in?

Hello together, after I actually managed to change the thing and it seems dense now it’s time to restore the insulation. Insulation I had to remove almost completely because completely soaked… Unfortunately the offer of slaughter parts here is very poor, only a carpet for the passenger side I could get. Therefore I thought about the following: – lining of the missing pieces first with 2 cm thick foam from the hardware store. Fixation mi t Powertaper – Above a layer of PVC, also fixed and sealed with Powertape. – Finally the new, used carpet for the passenger side and the hopefully clean and glycol-free carpet for the driver side. Finally then the original rubber mats which act with the edge like a small tub. Thus the foam should be relatively well protected from moisture by wet shoes !? Alone the Powetape makes me worry because I don’t know we what do you think or have a better idea ??

Hey people, short description of the symptoms: When I drive normally, everything is good and nothing to hear. But when I drive through a slight pothole or bumps slowly, it sounds like someone with a wrench hits the underbody or wheel boxes. In my opinion, the sound always occurs when the shock absorbers are relieved, so when the wheel falls down. Last I thought on cobblestones that my door was not right at the back, because it was so clattered Of course I have to crawl under there to see what it is, but I wanted to turn out a rough direction. Domlager, Buchsen, … ? I am grateful for hints. Janko

Hi, everybody, for some time now I’ve noticed a quite loud noise when I’m starting. Now I’ve tried a little bit about when exactly it’s happening. As soon as the car rolls in slow motion, it squeaks somewhere, almost as if a train slows down. At the very slow start and when rolling out, just stop there. I don’t kick the brake. As soon as I try to slow down carefully to see if something changes, I’m already standing still, because almost no speed. There’s no change in the sound. A little bit faster, and the sound is gone. Does anyone have an idea what I can look at? Thank you very much Mario

Hello! After years I report again….Yes, actually….no problem there was in the last years with my 1999 V70 I . Yesterday on the highway nice downhill to over 200km/h accelerated. Then let off and down to 130km/h. Then came the oil lamp. She went on briefly, out again and then came back flashing after a few seconds. Then the horror moment….He slowed down and I was really in shock….I gave a quick gas and heard a rat/crack. Immediately aisle out and thank God came a resting place on which I was then only rolled out with a switched off engine. ADAC called. He meant right after my description – “storage damage”! Despite that we tipped in a liter of oil and waited 2 minutes. Engine on and the clapping went off again…..immediately! Is this really scrappy, as the guy meant? So, because of economic total damage and 2000€ Reperatur!?!?? Towing to Lübeck cost me 395,68€ t. I urgently ask for an assessment, even if from a distance. Maybe I can also make a video….but I don’t want to torture him and start him again! I miss him so much now….Oh my God! The engine is externally healed….

Moin dear forum, have to my “new” sweetheart (C70-T5 1998) another question which imposes itself on me ^^. I now own the car for 2 weeks and have adopted “you” with a mileage of only 70 tkm. My question: Makes it sense to change the transmission oil, since it is already 15 years old. From the point of view of mileage it is certainly talkable. I have to say that the automatic actually also switches very well… and how is it so nice: Don ́t touch running systems! Thank you for your opinions, Gerald