Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hi, I want to exchange 5 storage at my engine. Has anyone already done this here. What do I have to consider in addition? Everyone is welcome. Thank you Udo.

Moin I know this shouldn’t happen to you but due to a long traffic jam, I ran out of gasoline and he just jerked off to the gas station.. Refueled and the jerking or drop-off when speeding up were still there.. On normal ride on the highway around 2000 tours and over no problems just when speeding up he stutters bin for every tip gratefully

Hello guys, I need your help again, my new 850 has brought the one or other construction site into the family. Coolerhermostat is now new and works perfectly, the rear dampers are also new and the flap is now open again. The upper rear engine mount is ordered! Now I want and have to get to the “ROST” which he unfortunately has a bit. And that’s when the tailgate starts at the number plate lighting and at the bottom of the window to rust. Now the question is the Z above the disk and below the disk individually?? Pictures in the appendix. The upper triggers itself and the bottom looks full. Greeting Christian

Hello Volvo Forum, do you have an info, if a failure of the electronic throttle flap is usual with a 3 year old C70 convertible with 70000Km ? my dealer said after description of the error: when driving to accept fluctuations in the gas, once the ETS warning lamp also went to the electronic throttle flap should be exchanged.

Hello everybody! Ask for your help! I have already read a lot about this here but unfortunately nothing clear! What happened so far: Since my Swedes Steel was very bloated at the last stop and go, I decided to renew the shaft seal, but without disassembly to the head(compressed air). Everything went well! Unfortunately, after a short time, a Simmering pushed out behind the exhaust camshaft wheel. I then took off the one wheel and pressed the ring again. Because the wheels pressed in again. r da longholes have, I did not get the previous setting. I then read a lot about the grooves at the other end, markings on the NW wheels and markings on the crankshaft. I then bought a tool set for setting and locking. I fixed the NW with the help of the tool at the distribution side. One groove above and the other below the Zyko upper edge(picture1). Marking NW wheels at the front fits approximately also (picture2). n pure(Fig.3). My problem is now the crankshaft. On the one hand I have read that the small bridge on the oil pump housing and the notch on the gear of the OT is (Fig.4), sometimes not! At the OT measurement (pen in spark plug hole) this point would be about 3-4 teeth further. the bolt for locking the KW is also identical with the oil pump housing. What is the OT KW and what does the notch on the rib belt wheel have to say (Fig.5)? Oh, come on, let’s go!

Moin to everyone. I need your help. It’s a V70, Bj 2000, 170hp, BRC gas system I’ve been searching through the search function for hours, but still can’t find the error. How it all started: the moose continues to run clean and evenly, the sensed engine run has not changed. Sporadic the Mkl. only rarely, now constantly after about 5 – 10min drive. That caused me to read out the error memory. I use Torque. Not the yellow. The error P0171 is displayed when reading out the fault memory (sometimes also Missfire cylinder 5…is there a connection?). The error is immediately there after the deletion, even if the Mkl is “not yet” on. P0171 means mixture too thin. The error is timed no matter whether I drive on petrol or gas. Since both modes of operation produce the same error, I do not have to rely on the fuel / gas supply, – Already carried out: – air filters checked (almost new and clean) – vacuum hoses controlled at the air filter – air mass meters exchanged and contacts checked – spark plugs exchanged (were anyway on, even appearance) – ignition coils checked – Lambda probe changed – vacuum hose to the vacuum sensor and the hose of the tank ventilation to the intake bridge replaced. – All obvious points in the supply air system (except for the intake bridge itself) sprayed with brake cleaner when the engine is running, no speed change. – The concealment and cable of the coolant temperature sensor is checked (display in the dashboard is fixed at three o’clock). – Hidden at the two exhaust probes controlled. – Seal of the throttle valve controlled. – Once again sprayed with brake cleaner, now also the top of the intake bridge and injectors. I don’t really know any more at the moment. I h abe to have the injection nozzle switched to Zyl. 5 first time to get rid of maybe P0503. Next action would then be to take off the suction bridge. But that’s why I fear something back without any help. Does one of you have an idea how to proceed further? Greetings Thomas

After several searches and reading through several threads I open a new topic. Here it is as described above about the timing belt change ! Since I have already pumped enough into the repair of the head and also would like to trust myself to change the timing belt I have read a bit about it. For those who are wondering about timing belts changing head overhaul !? Yes the timing belt came just before 30Tkm new ! BUT ! I have the inner drive shaft cuff ! The fat came unfortunately also to the ZR … the teeth therefore look quite worn out. Since I don’t want to risk anything and fear that the belt will skip or slide through the fat at some point in time, I prefer to take the 200€ for the tooth strap into my hand. The real question is the difficulty of changing and the difference between fixed and adjustable camshaft wheel on the output side. Furthermore, I do not have any fixing possibilities. cjkeit seen egsp. By bolts to secure the gears before twisting. First of all thank you !

Hello, wanted to introduce myself briefly after I had read in the forum properly before I bought it. I already had a V40 D3 EZ 2013 and have now joined with a good offer: C70 Coupé T5 2. Hd. and 228 TSD KM run, but checkbook maintained throughout at Volvo. Came today by forwarding and makes a very good impression. Look forward to an exchange soon..

moin, now the moose has a new cooler, after the first was completely through and the second apparently the oil cooler broke inside inside. Well and now it loses water again, but now elsewhere. Why? and where does this come from? After the installation of the new cooler and the test drives everything was good. Then I drove about 200km, only max 120km/h and the next morning the balance tank is empty, filled up, driven (about 30km) at home and saw that it drips, first very slowly and then always faster, in the evening then looked again, the red lamp is already on and he complains about too little water. I tried to photograph the place where it drips. first very close and then from further away, standing beside the front wheel (driver side). Do you have an idea?

Moin, wanted to introduce me briefly – I am the Manni year 1962 and come from near Kassel (Habittswald). I learned car mechanics ages ago, but never worked in the profession, but always used the knowledge only for the hobby screwdriver. Cars I had certainly already over 40… After a bad experience with a Volvo V70 II D5, I have now bought a Toyota Avensis for the everyday stuff. Since today I still own a wine-red 850 T5 automatic from 96. The moose has 307000 km down is still quite well preserved. The next time I will pick it up a bit. Will surely have some questions in the future. Until then and greetings from Northern Hesse, Manni