Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello dear ones, I had already created a thread ( click ) some time ago, but everything was not so closely observed yet and in the end I also lost the topic. Now on vacation we went on the nerve, but the problem: every time you put on the handbrake and have the light on (no matter if standlight or glare) both the AI lighting as well as the lighting of the climate part goes out. I made some observations that I would like to give you observation 1: The handbrake is NOT attracted, but the dimming switch is on full and full or dimming light and the ignition is only on 2 (motor NOT started). There is to be observed that only oil, motor, ABS and SRS lamp are on (at the end it was only oil, as the others went out as usual). If I take dimming switch to zero, all lamps are normal. Also, when the light is off. I then pull the handbrake and the DS is on full, the illumination of climate and AI goes off and all control lamps are on again. Observation 2: Ignition is on I, the DS is on full and stand light is on. Then one looks slightly shimmering the park and oil lamp. On dipped light, however, everything is off. But if I take off the handbrake when I stand still, the shimmering of the lamps is off and everything is off. Observation 3: When you turn on the light, in the display from our radio (SC-805, but in gray) the light is off and com It’s getting brighter and brighter again (but that’s all within 1-2 seconds) Observation 4: The P sign always lights up during the ride when we’re driving without light. If we turn on the light and the DS is full, the sign is off and all other lamps. Provided it’s all right. In order to fix the problem, we just have to turn off the car and then turn it on again. The problem is already fixed. But that can’t be the solution. It is worth noting that switches such as INFO, or the light switch itself and also the radio remain illuminated. So concerning “only” AI and climate go out with the light. I hope I have been able to present everything a little understandable and hope for a quick solution. If I should look further things: by Sunday the moose is available to me at the door and I will try to comply with everything as soon as possible.

Moin. I encountered a problem with my moose this morning. Attached trailer and what went on… GAR NIX. So I was looking for the error. That was quickly found: The connected cables were moved to the spare wheel pit, but there are now 2 plugs hanging there, i.e. no electricity no light. Then I made all the disguise all around with ambition and found the following. A small plug that is fixed at the driver’s side. When I pulled it off functioned It is also so long that I could put it to the plug from the AHK and turn it on. Colors and number of wires match. So far so good. But I lack the 2nd and larger plug. NOTHING in the entire trunk behind the covers. Otherwise I noticed only a large white plastic box, which I did not pay attention to. Light Control or something. with a huge plug on it. Did someone already have the same problem? I want the Stec I don’t want you to just do it, and then something’s gonna go wrong or something.

Hello, I have now turned 18 and I was able to convince my father to buy me a car. It should be a Volvo V70 (also the older version up to 2000 or the successor). The price range is 6000 to a maximum of 9000 Euro. Now we have looked at mobile.de and found this car in our vicinity: http://suchen.mobile.de/…/showDetails.html?… We went to the dealer to look at the car: some rust spots, some worn seats. Now I ask m I wonder if 8.500 euros are too much money for the car (also compared to vehicles from other suppliers on mobile.de)?

Hello, I have a problem with my 850 20V 170hp Built. 96. One morning I drove to work about 35 km, when I arrived at work I noticed that in the empty run a slight cracker came out of the engine, but that fluctuated as soon as one gave gas. I did not think much about it, so I drove after work still something pick up. I drove about 120 km on the highway with about 130km/h until I suddenly heard a sudden coming extremely loud clapping and squeaking out of the engine. it still sounds extremely loud as if the camshaft or a piston would hit wrongly. I had to drive with this sound about 3 km further, because I was just in a highway tunnel. I noticed that the oil warning light also flume like in the cycle of a piston ( but I looked oil and it was at maximum, so ok ). Now we have already removed the valve cover and found that the camshaft ran without oil. What can this be about? at once without warning the oil pressure is gone ??? Now we have removed the oil pump and installed a new seal and it seems to me as if the oil pressure is back now. Valve cover built on it again, but it still started immediately. So again valve cover down again and 20 new hydro plungers installed. But then it still ran equally bad. The engine tackers and crawls always as if a piston or a camshaft strikes What can be there, I also know no more. Mfg Henning

Hello, I’m thinking about adding a 2000 he v70 I have a 2.5 D in choose with 140 ps (is yes the 2.5 tdi machine of vw) I was told you come with a tank filling over 1000 km it would mean the consumption is below 7 liters with a 70 liter tank sounds very little but is it also credible? and still what the red plakete so euro 2 there are but so many different tax rates for eur02 and diesel can tell me how much control I have to pay for the e further has surprised me the “strange” equipment he has climate but no air conditioning semi-leather foglights and 4 ephs and no board computer is it a zero outfitter or was there only funny with the special accessories accessed? thank you greetings

Hiho, I’ve got another elk black, 850 and a R. However, quite contrary to my habit a machine. Sooo, he has a few problems too. Some rust at scouring points, and on a roof antenna for a mobile phone that has been missing for 20 years. But nothing serious – we’ll get to that now: Funk-ZV: Can’t. Is the guard 2, tried the learning procedure for the hand transmitters – nothing, nada. Wat nu? Throw out and install ebay radio for 30€? Rear wiper: The upper third does not wipe. Ohgod. Is bent. Clamp down the back around the tank hose from the tank to the tank flap is heavily rusted – do you get the ones at Skandix? Tacho-KM counter has caries – where was the gear wheel again and how did you get the AI out there again without getting crazy? Handbrake can be repositioned. Rear flap cladding rappels – despite rep set. Watch times. Sikaflex? Covers of the separation grid boxes are scraped. Where do I get some? d nu the biggest problem: he only drives around something at 225. The car was once blessed with Italo engine, but got a conversion on the “big”. The gearbox is apparently the right thing, was obviously only an automatic transmission installed anyway. Can that be that the old Italo transmission control unit now has the vomit and still thinks: “Machma piano” and shuts down too soon? Otherwise let’s see how I get along with him. Heico-AGA is under and Domstrebe inside and he feels tight At some point, steering gears will be a topic again, but that is manageable. Up to the little things above, everything works Achja: does anyone else have a load compartment roller in dark?

Hello Together The instrument cluster of my Volvo C70 Cabriolets (2001) is sporadically off (tacho failure, KM display missing), STC/ABS/warning light and occasionally motor control light are on. Most of the time after a few minutes drive the tacho and KM counters work again and the indicator lights go off, only STC always stays on until the engine is switched off. When reading out different diagnostic devices each indicate the error P1633 (Accelera. Pedal Pos. Sensor 2 Signal too Low). My guess was with the defect of the el. gas pedal, after I changed it already for a new original part, unfortunately the error occurred again. Does someone have an idea where the real problem lies? Best regards Sebastian

Today it was time: the last step before the conversion from the Deltamil air conditioning system to the original Volvo system, the evaporator had to be changed. So A-Brett out, air box out and the old evaporator out (was still close only unfortunately incompatible with the Volvo system). Was also quite modified as you can see in the photo. The whole was actually after 1 1/2 hours already changed, after 2 hours the air box was also in again. Since I also (finally) order in the Elekt rik I made my way to this one, and I’m not going to finish it until tomorrow. Here are some photos of the action Thanks to Johnny for the help Greeting Cristian

Hello, my `99 TDI is supposed to get track broadening, because the track width is especially at the rear compared to my AWD (XC) somehow not quite satisfactory. I thought of a small widening, so 10 mm. per side, i.e. 20 mm. per axis. But: These systems are actually only to have with longer wheel screws, and I would lose the beautiful, long chrome bolts. -Lengther wheel bolts in chromed (if necessary without longer hexagon, then the hexagon would z was sitting further inside, but at least still chrome blinking ) in M12x1,75 there is probably not? -Which plate thickness is the narrowest, which is fixed with extra screws to the wheel hub? -The aluminium rims (perfo) have inside on the contact surface to the wheel hub so “bags”, in which overstanding screw heads would have a few millimeters additional space. If one with a Dremel etc. overstanding “Nupsis” removed, there would be even a lot of space for screw heads (1 cm about). ps? Greeting Chris

Today I got my car from the workshop, problem was that I had 900 rpm, the temperature indicator always only went up 1/4 and the exhaust was extremely roaring. Today then the complete ignition system was replaced, the thermostat, the temperature sensor, the suction bridge and now the speedometer 1100 rpm shows in the warm state! According to the meter this is between 850 and 900, what can this be broken now? Another problem is the roaring of the exhaust. I had the problem that he fanned gs with original cat and original end pot very quiet ran from the driving noise. Now the cat was clogged but we had to replace it, so new cat under it and then he started to tube. But noise came to 100% out of the end pot, so end pot renewed. The tube was back, so again to the workshop, Krummer is dense, Kat was replaced by an expensive, but tubes is still there, engine bearings are fine… I spin right through, where can the error now lie, if the whole Compression test: Cylinder 1 = 10 bar, Cylinder 2 = 11 bar Cylinder 3 = 11.4 bar, Cylinder 4 = 11 bar and Cyöinder 5 equal to 10 bar, sounds very balanced, should be ok according to the workshop and will not be the trigger for the problems of the engine. Spark plug picture of the old spark plugs was great, not too fat, not too lean, especially it does not burn oil. I am really overwhelmed, the car has just 180000 km down cO