Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Once again I found something cool.. With the newer Volvos (and other manufacturers) you can, after the car has turned off, have the lights on for a short time, so that you can find home in the dark. (Tuer lock etc) To the happy Volvo has actually prepared everything, so that we can get our elk for almost 15 EUR with it:http://picasaweb.google.com/…/FollowMeHomeFunctionVolvo850V70# (Instructions as a comment of the pictures) Works perfectly

… because of a small mud lamp in the tacho you drive nothing (only vehicle with airbag, therefore I never pay attention to the lamp…) to the TÜV to get a glued only to drive back afterwards 98 Euro poorer and without stickers – considerable lack: – Airbag system: System lamp without function Last year the ABS lamp, now SRS/Airbag (yes really the lamp, errors are not saved). Can you replace the lamps without the instrument cluster? In addition, it is important to ensure that there is no discrimination between women and men in the labour market.

What do you think? My moose now has about 380,000km on the clock. I will probably have to take care of the VSD and oil trap in the next 20,000km. It already blows a little and disassembles 1L ÖL on approx. 1.300km. That this is too much, is clear to me. Since approx. 200.000km I drive 10W40 and dump every 1,300km a litre after. Is it advisable to switch over to another oil, apart from the VSD and the oil trap? Be happy about your opinions…. VG Bird

Hello together, I changed the days the quick coupling to the warm exchanger and changed the cables in the engine compartment. The air filter box had to go out and some vacuum hoses went off. After the assembly and the warm drive I noticed that de Elch accelerated like wildly and the turbo turned up without limit until he had strong dropouts. At the same time the charging pressure indicator marched to the right over the display area. I don’t know exactly which hose belongs to where. My predecessor has at least partially replaced it with a kind of wiping water pipe. The hard art pipes lie in softer hoses of different diameters practiced are partly connected by such sockets. Someone knows how the hoses are properly laid, so which hose is laid from where to where and which diameter they have to be Sss? I’m totally desperate. Thank you so much. Greetings Joko2000.

Hello, after I replaced crossbars and pendulum supports, I thought the flap would stop at the front right. Unfortunately, it is not. Also, the tire at the front right on the inside was quite worn out, which I connected with the old crossbar, as well as steering wheel vibrations from approx. 90 km/h. They are still there. The flap occurs with short bumps/impacts. I got an appointment for the track setting. But I probably can’t get the flap with it. Can it be the spring leg or the right motor bearing? Or anything else? Would be grateful for any hint. Jürgen

Hello guys, Once again I hope with the help of your experience for the following problem to find the most practicable solution. So, I want to renew the brake caliper at the rear. Since last winter a brake caliper at the front caused me a lot of trouble (as always in the most unfavorable moment), I wanted to be faster this time and exchange old for new before. So buy parts and also a suitable special key for the screwing of the brake line. But when trying to lure these rn, first gave up the brass screw connection on the brake line and when the key no longer reached and I tried it with pliers and enormous force I really came to the limits that I trust the brake line. But nothing moved. Obviously the relatively long threaded path in the brake caliper is really baked with this brass screw connection. I assume that it is the first brake caliper and thus they are now already in it since 1999 and have plenty of 400. Yes, what can I do now? A: Get the next piece of brake line (about 40 cm) until the next screw connection and hope that I can solve it….. B: Saw off the brake line above the screw connection, get me a new screw connection and unscrew the end of the brake line… C: Unfortunately I have no further ideas and no experience with fixed brake lines. Therefore my question. Who has had a similar problem and how to solve it ……. e in Saxony in Hesse

Hello guys, I would like to hear some subjective opinions on this topic, because I can’t really decide for myself. For over a year I own my V70I from 1999 and think about replacing it with another V70 due to the high consumption and miserable painting of the previous owner. The previous owner has painted the car with a paint roller in matte green. Unfortunately, this takes the vehicle any chance of the future (since I have to drive to customers occasionally). The friendly mechanic has estimated me 500 € for this. Now I have weighed two possibilities. Either I buy a well-kept V70I again and will have it maintained and maintained as well as an LPG system installed to reduce my fuel costs. I will continue to repair defects myself. The V70I is perfect for screwing. So far I have only had positive experiences. Or… … I am looking for a well-kept V70III from 2010 (These l) with high mileage (>300,000km). The fuel consumption here is 5.5 l/100 km. Here I worry that the screwing becomes significantly more difficult. The spare parts all have to be learned and I will not get around the visit of a workshop. Both options cost about 5,000 €. Do you have ideas or comments about my thought course? I have been dealing with this question for about 2 months and am happy about suggestions. Data of the current vehicle: Mod el: V70I 1999 – 9101/815 Kilometer level: 340.000 km Fuel consumption: 9 l/100 km Repair costs in one year: 500 € Fuel costs per year: 2,250 € Annual mileage: 15,000 km Power: 140 hp Warmest greetings Poke

Since I don’t know if it’s helpful for me to revive an old Tread here a new one. After it was a bit difficult at the first start in the morning, as if battery kept too weak yet at the bakery and fetched breakfast. Then normal start. Over 10km highway to the next appointment and Zack no turning or clacking from the starter foreign start—help without success, on rope and after 3m clutch let come and it ran as usual. In the workshop no start possible, so starter r three years ago, only Plus and Minus cables were made new. Ok, the Plus cable really funny soft, Scotty called, ordered new ones. Also measured during the hissic time, 50 arrived battery voltage at the bottom, nevertheless ignition lock tested, has passage to 50 and also sends out battery voltage. Now I also broke my head, why I have three cables on clamp 30 on the starter? Battery and Lima is clear. Have I already disconnected. Nix! first starter several times a/e and controlled on the workbench, since he only tries this once of five, Valeo Starter ordered. First is a no-name manufacturer Who likes to send non-functional components. Since I have a 1995 2.0 Turbo, which also does not have an immobiliser, I exclude the relay in the footroom. Will nevertheless look tomorrow. Also the starter does nothing in the built-in condition and external current of the terminal. , since there are also customers—vehicle problems inside. Don’t see the forest in front of trees! Thought impulses are helpful. Thank you.Then continue to report tomorrow what I find out. Have a nice evening to you!

Moin, has anyone ever fixed the volume control on the radio above? On the right side there is only scratching and creaking especially if you change the volume.

Good evening, because my piece of jewellery has a little bit of performance for me I came up with the idea to do the V70. I had thought about 200-220 Ps but I don’t want to convert it to turbo or something like that but rather leave it as a vacuum cleaner and prefer to convert it to 20v software optimization, exhaust, exhaust manifold, air filter and intake manifold. In addition, this should be possible in the home workshop (except software optimization of course) Deltais to the engine and the vehicle: -Motorcode=B5252fs – Brand=Volvo -Model=V70 (first generation) -Suction motor -144 Ps -10 Valves -Year of construction 1998 (Mechanical throttle valve!) -2.5 liters (or as 1999 called 2.4 liters) Motor switchcar -Front drive Has anyone ever done such a thing or has experience with suction cup tuning? Thanks already in advance LG Arvid