Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello and Merry Christmas I have a problem with a torn-down stand-up bolt on the cylinder head and would like to, since it is flushly torn off to weld a nut, with drilling it will be difficult at this point it is the extreme stand-up bolt in driving direction. My question would be, is it just enough to disconnect the battery or should I still separate the control unit from the engine and the gas system? Or completely different procedure? Motor is the B5252S Greeting Michael

Hej, Vorweg: I’m new here and hope I’m right here. For two days I’ve been trying to convert my ventilation back to disk/footroom with my 850 with air conditioning automatic.With the damper front passenger side defroster/footroom (NR. 15) the drive shaft was broken and I repaired it. Can also be manually rotated. Unfortunately, the engine does not move a piece. I still have 4 other actuators, which I tried all, no one turns. At the climate control element in d the center console works the middle rotary knob, because if I turn on AUT the blower changes from the strength, means -> switch works between 6 and 12 o’clock. Everything on the right side, that is between disc and foot space, does nothing. I had removed and controlled the control element, everything looked good. (But also no electrical specialist) Same problem on the flap control on the driver side no.14, does not move. Is it possible that the dampers have to be adjusted first? Is it possible that the dampers have to be read out and reset performed? Unfortunately, I have no readout device. Do they just not move because they are in “emergency” or something? I am really overwhelmed… PS.: On the actuators sometimes there is a 1 and sometimes a 2. Does someone know what it has on them? Would I be happy about the answers!

Hello, I had the following problem this morning with my V70 for the second time: The car is apparently completely powerless, as if there was no battery in it. ZV is not working, interior and instrument lighting is not working, of course it doesn’t start either. I have such a small power bank with starting aid function, after I have jammed it, everything is there, even the starting works at usual speed within half a second. Battery is a year old, the last incident of this Art is six weeks ago. I know this with old batteries, but then everything is a “bish” on and the starter turns slowly and doesn’t make it, but so in the way this is all completely dark, I’ve never seen. Does anyone have an idea what that can be? Is there some kind of main switch that shuts down at undervoltage? I’m grateful for every hint, thank you very much,Kai.

Hello, I’ve had a 850 in my possession for a few days now. I’ve also slowly familiarized myself with the Mackerel. I changed the wiper arm driver side today (the old had limp feathers and was a bit bent). Since he unfortunately has rust on the fender driver side, I went today to the ground and tried to touch how bad it is behind the bumper. In doing so, I found a kind of can of rear fenders, on which several hoses, I believe vacuum hoses, But this is only kept by a cable tie! Can someone tell me what this is? And does someone often have an image of what it should look like? I also noticed that the tank flap is not locked when I lock the car, is there the engine often defective? Greeting and nice evening Christian

Hello guys I know the topic was already there yet I am still unsuccessful in the repair of my cruise control in the 850 switch. So I tested for cruise control 1.The vacuum pump there the resistance does not go against infinity 2. The U hoses seem to be fine. 3.The pedal switch re-adjusts turn-off results 111 No errors. Do you have any advice? Can the relay be broken? The connection of vacuum ball and accelerator pedal was off, now it is naturally ringed in again. I ch had changed the blinker arm to see if it was because of it but that doesn’t make any difference.

Hello together, if I open and close it by ZV (whether with remote control or directly at the lock), then open and close everything, except the tailgate. When I connect to the tailgate at the lock, everything goes. I have measured on the plug from the wire harness, which leads to the tailgate lock and then with the radio remote control open and connect. There then arrives at the pins 8-6 or 8-7 according to voltage. The contacts of plug and socket look ok. Contact spray ha I tried, but didn’t help. It’s funny that when I hit the plug, when it’s plugged into the engine from the rear flap lock, the ZV spins around. Speak up and close again, several times. Cable breaks or the like could not be recognized anywhere, everything looked fine. Before I buy the rear flap lock again on suspicion, can I test it somehow, or is it sure that it is? I had tried a motorcycle battery short power to the appropriate P to the (8 mass and 6 and 7 plus respectively), but the engine didn’t get excited either. Could be of course that this is not the right way to drive the engine? Would be very grateful about help! Greetings Johannes

Moin, my 850 2,5 10V 106 KW year 96 , switch, can not be converted to Euro 2 so I bought a cold running controller from Gat. with the ECU number 31.004, EGS-Z2. Does anyone know how, or where the air control valve is connected or has an installation instruction?

So, now it got me too… Recently it has happened more often that the engine runs out after starting. After 4-5-6 attempts the engine runs as if never had been anything. 2 weeks ago I installed a new petrol pump relay, since no more problems. This morning again 5 attempts, then it ran first. I would like to go through the possible sources of error systematically and need your help for it. The car is here again this afternoon, then I will be wrong for now. The first problems usually occurred when the engine was running for a short time, but it wasn’t really warm. This morning we had 10 degrees here, so it wasn’t really cold. But that’s just speculation from me now.

Moin, had just asked in the “What did you do good to your moose today thread” whether there is interest in a calendar. Here is the sequel My ideas for planning criteria: format type of calendar e.g. table or wall calendar color/layout and of course the pictures. Thought that it would be nice if we showed the complete variety of the P80. So each at least one 850, V/S70, C70 and V70XC. To do this we logically need at least 12 images. Maybe a final sheet. Of course, there can be several elks on the pictures, e.g. from a meeting, or are you against it? Ideally it would be if the pictures fit the season. How should we do this with the pictures, so that there is no dispute? With the help of the thank you button? Look forward to many suggestions and/or pictures.

dear elchgemeinde, I guess you’ll think I’m a little stupid now – but I want to go through Bulgaria with my s70 in a few weeks and continue to Greece to the Aegean – on country and village roads. (until bg largely autobahn) on street-view I looked at the routes and found out for myself about 30…40% “square slopes”. the s70 bj ́98 is not a (all-wheel-driven) off-road car with its front drive, but imagine, with a somewhat rough-headed I calculate with warm/hot temperatures throughout the day, so that a “summer ripe” and no gjr should offer itself. lt. bed.anleiung are ripenesses of 195/60 r15 and 205/55 r15 prescribed. do I now quite agree that the 195/60 r15 has a higher mature flank and is therefore better suited on the hithole-sown village roads? my elch I would like to au but I could imagine that these are not so optimally adapted to the (hot) climate and the southern village streets. Who has experiences on (dusty) village streets of the Balkans and can give me recommendations? p.s. in the tyre and bike forum I unfortunately did not find a solution to my problem – or was I too blind? warm thanks in advance felix-s70