Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Good day elk-loving community, I am looking for a good elk with a backpack (combi), which does not yet have a care level 1 – 3 in the form of illness. It should be maintained (inside and outside), have TÜV, health maintenance (front axle, timing belts, oil change etc) should always have been made. The outer skin should be without age spots (rust), the heart (engine) without atrial fibrillation or infarct sign. Running capacity approx. 250,000 if super also get up to 30 0.000 You could get angry about the color red or black, but quietly offer everything. Equipment of any kind, like more, no four-wheel, 144 or 170 moose thicknesses (PS) suffice. Gladly 8-fold matured. I would be happy about serious offers with detailed data and meaningful pictures or if I am totally wrong here, with the hint of the right forum. Also gladly give my private mail to seriously called providers. Please do not offer craft stalls. and I am now looking for an elch that doesn’t have to be restored driving.–} For offers {– Would like to thank everyone in advance and stay with Krony until later.

Hello together, today only a short decision, I hope you will get me further, even if – and that’s clear to me – at 10 answers probably many different results come. I can live with that 😉 after I mothed my winter tyres last month and the TÜV approved my 205/55R16 (thanks for the many great contributions here in the forum) new summer tires are available. an old forum colleague has now actually worked on me so far that I buy new matures. so far I have mostly decided for 1-2 years old (and almost new) used ones. yesterday I visited a tyre dealer to buy 205er. now there are also 195er to choose from. here I would need your feedback briefly: I am on the road 90% in big city traffic. occasionally a ride over the highway. now I am facing the following choice, at the same price: 1. hankook ventus prime 2, 205/55R16 91V – rating wet C, rating sprit consumption C 2. dunlop sport blueresponse , 195/60R15 91H – rating wet B, rating sprit consumption A 3. other matures. e.g. conti premium contact 5 – cost per mature 15,- euro more. “feeling” the 195ers are a little lighter. with the 205ers I have the feeling of having to spend more power on steering. would like to spend tonight, at the latest Friday to the workshop and look forward to your feedback.

Meal, I’m new here and have a question right away. My elk was at the TÜV today and couldn’t get over it, as the examiner said the ABS is not working. I was a little surprised because I wasn’t aware that my elk ABS should have. He showed me the ABS hydraulic block and said he had to have ABS. When I made the brakes (front and rear) I didn’t notice any ABS sensors, even when I removed both front axles to mount new axle cuffs. It lights up a uch no ABS lamp. Must my moose now have ABS just because this hydraulic block is there ?

In short, the Volvo T5 switch, 855, has LPG, but has not been in operation for a long time, so that there is an overpressure in the system DESWEGEN due to a defective evaporator I guess not! Bubbles rise through the upper hose,the thin one to the balance tank, water goes somewhere flutes… the heat exchanger is DEFENITIV with the connections in the *****! the question is only if he can lose 0.5-1 liter on the day? the car does not smoke, no mud at the wedge bar or cover, no oil visible in the water, after exhaust smells also not, power is available with the car, heating is also warm to hot!! just what I noticed yesterday, that the temperature indicator has to “fight” to, it rises from the very bottom, and after about a 1-2 cm it jumps down again briefly, up, down, down, and then it rises to 3 clock and stays also on 3 clock!!! What has come new, engine cooler, had a hair crack along 10 cm approx.!! he with lid, original bought at volvo dealer! Thermostat from Whaler , new, temperature sensor from a working 850er!! just the cable or plug had or have a waxer but it can’t lie there… fill the water level on MAX and after 1 day drive a bit of city and stand around is in the evening the stand on MIN! … If I open the lid during hot operation, yes not the best I know, it hisses very briefly, clearly overpressure, then cover closed, cover closed to and then the water rises again to just above max… but so that it is impossible to discharge the balance tank or that it really bubbles or one hears a cooking or other things while driving, is not!! only sometimes when I turn off the car you hear a bubble from the tank, in the driver’s room well noticed! but at the tank around everything is dry… that makes me crazy… doesn’t have to be the ZDK?!! the heat exchanger loses water, sh eibe attacks minimally and it smells like frost protection or coolant in the inside room… but I just can’t see where it’s made! parts are ordered, but come only on Wednesday… carpet up relatively dry… but under the carpet all these foam and fabric mats are fully sucked with water…

If you need quick help from the community, I want to expand the drive shaft at the front left to replace the wheel-side joint. The drive shaft is secured on the gearbox side with a spring ring. ? How is the drive shaft pulled off from the transmission ? without causing any damage. According to VIDA there is a lever tool, which sets behind the joint on the transmission. Is there another possibility for garages screwdrivers ?? With is clear that I can not just pull on the shaft to get them from the It is a Volvo V70, model year 2000 with M56 transmission. Thanks for Info

Hello together! I would like to introduce myself briefly. I am Markus and live in Ostallgäu. Our car, a Volvo 850 2.5 20V 125KW/170PS. Year of manufacture 1994 combi switch. For some time I have been reading with you and must say excellent forum. Super! Now I come to the problem what I have. The thickness stood about 3 months, on the one hand because my wife has a company car and I have been working for a long time abroad. When I started the car last week, he does not run any more and. He didn’t hold the speed at all and the engine went out immediately. The lamp lamp didn’t go out any more. He always let himself start immediately and with a light gas until he was a little warm, he didn’t go out any more. I then first took off the plug from the LMM and sprayed in with contact spray. Cables are no lots also otherwise visible everything is OK. I have read out the error memory Diagnosis box A slot 2 and 6. It of course flashed. Then I have the error gel The Lambda light just doesn’t go off. Today I wanted to go to the bottom of the thing again and notice that the diagnostic box no longer blinks, neither slot 2 nor 6. Hab tried everything. My question, can the box go defective, can you just replace it???? The car has an immobilizer (VDO plug in the amature carrier) What can I do? The engine is not working well in cold condition, goes out because he doesn’t hammer the speed. In warm condition he runs at approx. 1000-1100 u/min, which is much too high. Freu mich über helpfule Reply. Greeting to all.

Hello to all moose fans, my name is Lisa and I am 19 years old. I have been a proud owner of an old V 70 (built in 1998) for two weeks and I love my dark green moose. It fits perfectly to me and I am very proud. I have the car from a work colleague of my mother. His father died and the son offered my mother’s car for sale. The car is actually very well there with its 160000 kilometers. My father is today, however, to the Volvo We rkstatt was driven and a huge barrel was opened there. The following has to be done: timing belts and inspection. Reduced costs approx. 800 euros. Furthermore, the mounts for the bumpers are rusted. However, this Volvo can no longer deliver. Due to the rust my elk would no longer come through the TÜV. On this page http://www.skandix.de/…/ however, such mounts are shown to me. Unfortunately, I am also not very technically savvy but this would have to be done. My father is already talking about a mistake. But I don’t want to give up the car. Does anyone know about it? Should I even go to a contract workshop with such an old car? Or rather to a tinkerer? I thank you very much for your help. Lisa

Dear moose friends, the cover of the injection strip can no longer be fixed with me. Obviously it is only clicked in, but that doesn’t hold any longer. In the workshop it seems to have been glued to the wall – see black glue (tea-like) on attached photo. Does one of you have such a bar left, maybe from a butcher?

There is a lot to do about our 850er Limo from 1993. Some things have to be done for the TÜV and other things are more or less fun. The parking brake is TÜV-relevant. I think I can do that. The steering is leaky and therefore spongey. Probably not TÜV-relevant, but it has to be done. The car is needed daily. That’s why I wanted to get a used steering, repair it and then mount it over the weekend. And here’s the first problem. I I found only one sticker with the indications 6800275, AC23A414. But not on the steering gear but on the push rod. Can anyone do anything with this? Another thing is a desired motor replacement. Soon the timing belt and the clutch have to be renewed. To do this, the motor j a. We still have a 125 kW engine (to be repaired) in another Volvo. What does everything have to be changed if we want to install this engine in our Limo? Does the entire engine compartment wire harness have to be replaced? What about the control units (engine and ABS)? What about the exhaust system (including catalyst)? What information do you need to answer these questions? I have already called the TÜV. Unfortunately, there is no need for a replacement. “He would call me again,” he said. But that was already a week ago and nothing is happening. I think, however, the TÜV should accept the conversion. There is this 1993 soda with the 125kW engine. The third topic is the exchange of the rear wheel bearings: My soda still has 4-hole rims. I want to get this as much as possible. Unfortunately, there are no more so many suppliers for rear wheel bearings for 4-hole rims. And if, then at high prices. but also found individual ball bearings as wheel bearings. Has anyone ever changed ball bearings? I and I have done this kind of work already, but I would be very grateful for a short instruction. Unfortunately, something has become a lot for a post but I have really limited myself. There is a lot more to do. Thanks already now for your answers.

Moin, I’ve been the lucky owner of a V70 T5 for a few days (1997). So far so good, however, I have strange phenomena on the clutch. When you push the clutch through, there are sometimes violent reactions: it makes KLONK in the front of the engine room and the whole car shakes. That sounds rather strange and also feels rather creepy. Strangely enough, that’s not always the case. Most of the time is all right. The car can be switched well (except for the The dealer said that the whole clutch has just come anew. Maybe there’s some idea what this could be? I hope it’s nothing dramatic, otherwise the car is super and with 173 TKM it hasn’t even entered properly. I just want to avoid some very expensive consequential damage, because that’s definitely not normal. It almost feels like P.S.: Maybe two-mass swing wheel? Does the first V70 have one at all? Sorry, I’m not really fit in Volvos technology yet.