Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Moin municipality…. My moose makes me worry…. And that’s what I put in an oil pressure manometer there. When I start the car, it has an oil pressure of about 4 bar. However, after about 5 km drive that drops to completely 0 bar. Did I recently make an oil change with 15W 40 oil. Did any of you have this before? Is this a defective oil pump or still a storage damage? I depend on the car and have to drive further distances, and without oil pressure I don’t come there w The Volvo has about 308tsd km down…. Thanks for your help far

Dear Leut, my 850 doesn’t start anymore and has been in the Volvo workshop for a few days. They have already switched ignition cables, candles and distribution cap and have ruled out a lot of things.Tass now already a lot of coal At the moment they assume that the engine control unit is defective.The Volvo workshop has kindly already picked out an Ebay link for a suitable control unit:http://www.ebay.de/…/271453803406?… However, the Asspartin (the v om Asspartin Used Parts Shop) warned that it would not be possible to exchange the ECU easily because of the immobilizer. But he was not quite sure. Do you know more about this?

Hello together for a long time did nothing and now it comes, I bought myself a Volvo C70I EZ 12.1999 2,5l with 170 hp and automatic as a project, I would like to make a monster out of the Volvo what should be called that on the body except Strammen chassis and wider pneumatics should be nothing to recognize but replace the engine or whom someone in the area Frankfurt, Darmstadt or surroundings has had experience I would like to invite on a coffee to exchange experiences. first of all I am grateful to everyone and for every tip and is welcome, I would also like to install an exhaust system in 3”, my thought revolves around using an S80 with 279 hp and the engine in my C70 of course also larger charge air coolers. As told who should have the experience already made with the tip’s are welcome. and thank you in advance to all.

Hello together! Since I’ve just got free and it’s still too cold to get out the mop, I once made myself over the parts of my ex-volvos. Background: On Matthew’s Volvo side I discovered a post that deals with the fact that the warm air flap in the air filter box probably no longer closes so properly due to a rotten thermostat and thus above all warm air would be sucked in by the exhaust manifold. – Which would lead to power losses and higher consumption. Curious I took out my air filter box stored in the cellar and expanded the flap unit. If I suck at the vacuum box now, the flap switches wonderfully and warm air would flow through from the cracker. As far as possible. However, in the resting position, so if cool fresh air should flow through, the flap to the exit cracker still remains about 1cm open. That means it always flows through some warm air. Unfortunately the pictures shown on Matthews side do not agree with the unit of mine agree, I assume that he had a 10V, with which the valve is thermostat- and not underpressure controlled. Can that be? What does this look like with you? After that, turn off the flex hose to the cracker and see if he drives in any other way. Does your flap close completely, or does it always remain a bit open? Greeting holidaymakers

With me now the crossbar exchange after 7 years / only 80tkm (3/4 city traffic DD) is available. Last exchange was with the “Friendly”, parts 135,-EUR/Stck.. On the topic of MEYLE already a lot was written here. Which are now currently recommended? With Volvo ́ I don ́t let ́ them change again. Would buy the parts and have them installed expertly.

Hello municipality! I would like to ask the general question again (even if I have already punched some forum members here), simply because I am still unwise what I should do. Km stand 300,000 or more, no idea, used box stop: Original Volvo dampers built, i.e. front oil, back gas. Or all around Bilstein B4. The box should roll comfortable, the original springs are definitely replaced by new OE, because behind already strongly rusted. h, especially on the increasingly bad inner-city streets, feel more comfortable? Deeper, harder, faster is therefore not my goal! Greetings

Hi, actually I wanted to “just” change the crossbars with my V2 … but then it looked (left) sooooo (photo). And as you can see, there must have been a cuff problem before my time, which was probably solved on the more inexpensive tour. I guess. The gearbox side cuff is OK by the way. Now I have my V1 standing next door in the open air – of which I have taken the ignitions with success last time – and his drive shaft left incl. Mansc Hetten looks original/complete and really good. Now my question: Do I now get a new GOOD replacement cuff or do I better build the (left) drive shaft from my V1 and in the V2? Have I read that you need a special tool to expand the shaft and detach it from the gearbox. Of course I didn’t. And also: can you just pull the cuffs off like that, or do I have to remove the tube clamps first? And how do you get that part back on? With grease(?) and new tube clamps? Thank you for your help, Jürgen

Hy, would like to know who drives a 2.4T with BSR 3 and learn about its experiences. Would you like to upgrade to Stage 3 + LLK Supposedly “must” update the software immediately as soon as the Downpipe/Kat/2.5 exhaust is installed, otherwise there is an engine damage ? An update to the LLK system does not exist ?! That’s why I would like to know who is travelling in the class. thank you lg

Hello dear people! I have a problem with my moose (Volvo 850 10v 144ps) and I hope someone can give me some advice here. I brought it to the workshop last Thursday to change timing belts, WaPU, tensioning roller and deflection roller, as well as vibration dampers. The next day I was allowed to pick it up and take it back home with me. I noticed, however, that since then the engine has been “snatching” / “nagling” and the performance is very much to be desired. So I immediately turned around and asked the master again on the yard. I’m afraid that the workshop has set the tax times wrongly and now needs to be improved. Now my question about the whole story … What can happen by the wrong attitude of the tax times? Should I look at anything or apply something to the workshop? Best regards, Patrick

Hello dear elk hats, now I (or the elk) also got caught by the Brösel virus. Actually, I only wanted to replace the ABS control unit (typical ABS + Tracs error). According to diagnosis code 443 (electrical or mechanical error ABS pump). Well, when I was expanding I had the isolation almost completely of both strippings in my hand. I have read a lot about the phenomenon both here and in the US forum. But I have nowhere found a concrete answer as it is in the end again. This is why I have some questions: 1) How do I get the black cap from the pump without removing the ABS block? Is there a trick in how to remove it from the pump motor? 2) How do I isolate the cables best? Generally, the condition of the copper is still OK. I was able to remove some oxidation products (only above ground) well with contact WL. I have already removed the 2-pin plug housing – so the cables are pinned out. At the ends si This makes the work with shrink hose exciting. I ordered a 4-1 shrink hose now and want to try to get over it with 8 mm ID. But maybe there is also a better procedure? 3) Can you drive the vehicle (in terms of damage to the ABS control unit) without a plugged-in pump? (apart from the fact that defective ABS is never great, but that’s what it is at the moment anyway.) 4) If you do the whole thing very differently like this welten, also gladly with the information. Thank you for your thoughts! A few more pictures, for the posterity. Greetings!