Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Question to the Awd driver: Who of you already had the defect of the sleeve? So who has this sleeve been overturned so that the gearing has gone. I ask because it concerns me now as well. My worry about this is how well the gearing of the angular gearbox can survive with such a problem? Does this hold out more or is that now the WG is gone or is there still chances? How did it happen with you? Unfortunately, I already have no appointment here this week. I am sitting just like coals because I would like to know if the WG is still intact. Otherwise I have a big problem.

Hello everyone, My friend called me yesterday and said he bought a new car, a Volvo v70 t5. As far as so nice, test drive ran without problems, only with the transfer the car stopped. Temperature was normal, however, no cooling water was available anymore. Am then to him today, because I could not get a picture of it at the beginning. He dumps water into the tank and shortly afterwards it ran through a small hole (about 1.5cm) slightly above the oil tank, directly behind the drive shaft holder again out. Now my question, where could the water come from and what would you do because of the hole? Because of the hole my acquaintance, who wants to cold-weld, should I talk to him there or rather advise him from? Thank you already in advance

Hello! I’m new here but for eleven years or so happy 850-driver. 2.0 10V / KME Diego Gasanlage / 290000 km I have the following problem: As soon as the car comes to temperature, the idle run becomes very restless. It turns further at 800 1/min but sounds like it doesn’t fire on all cylinders. “Wupp wupp wupp”, that sounds like that. The whole car is swinging in time. Also, it turns involuntarily high when giving gas. During the ride everything runs inconspicuously. There are no fault codes in the Blinkbox. Since I have already used the search function excessively, I have done the following things in the last days. Unfortunately unsuccessful. Worth mentioning is the following: The last two points cause me quite stomach pain. Does that mean, for example, that the cylinder head seal or any other capital is in the ass? What else can I try? How can I reliably examine the vacuum lines for leaks? If it is the ZKD, how do I get certainty?

Hello people and happy news to everyone! I have a few relatively simple questions: 1. Don’t ask how my key with FB is gone and I need a new one. Where best to hit? 2. There’s no wiping water on the rear window anymore. Is there a typical spot at the V70 I where you should look first? 3. Last time my window rubber came up on the driver’s side when you hit the disc. Since then it’s not right in there and I can’t really use the window. I have to hold it up when you go up so that it hits the top and doesn’t get stuck (I do a photo/video on occasion). When I look around the net for replacement it looks pretty mau. Mega expensive and hardly available. Also here the question: Is there a typical, simple solution for or recommendations for cheap spare parts? 4. Here I just want to ask you about your experiences.

Hello dears, I would have had a problem again. Woman calls to “the Volvo ( 850 DISEL ) went out after some warning lights (so pully everyone!) have lit up and didn’t jump on. The on board is connected booster……. swoops there he was again. to go out immediately again…. So I gave the starting aid, but every time I disconnected my cables suddenly all the lights on the Volvo darkened and the above warning lights lit or flickered so weak ……. battery measured= 7.5 volts. LiMA at the output 13.5 volts, so let’s go new battery bought = Marelli, 12 volts, 70 AH, 680 A } Built in. Starts immediately again…. But the warning lights start. At speed over 3000 you go out……….. So I ventured 10 km home because the elk is like to be near my tool. On the way determined on fast ride (so from 100) warning lights out. Slowly again or “Rumgeflacker” has experienced so often.

Hello 70’s and 850’s driver, I’m addressing you with a little problem. I’ve always been lighting up the ABS light in the speedometer. The curious thing is that the ABS lamp went off and off more often, but now it has been burning for almost 5 days and the TRACS symbol that didn’t light up before now is going on and off when I’m driving over a hub. Has the ABS control unit just left out of age weakness or is it a wobble contact, because the plug detachs itself from the control unit and on? Even if I turn the plug on it again, what else did it do before? All ABS sensors are new, don’t really want to expand the control unit and solder it around for your tips I’m very grateful. LG Kai

Hello, my first question here. I don’t really know about the car, so be patient with me. Volvo 850 GLT 125kw / 1993 / 250 000km So the following: Start and go, after about 10min the engine somehow falls into a “hole” and goes out and does not start again. After about 1 hour the engine starts again and runs perfectly for the rest of the day, also switch off several times and start again no problem. Can then go there and then park and drive 10min again again again without any problems – so just normal. But ALWAYS only after the first “forced break” – so drive 10min, then take an hour break, then drive again completely “normal” car… The ADAC man meant he would see spark from the ignition coil at the start – but I don’t see them, but as I said I have no idea… 🙂 The problem is now that the ignition coil at the Volvo 250,- Euro costs and I would otherwise find the thing fitting on the net only for 1995 models or newer. Will the ignition coil also be suitable for a 1993 model too?

1998 Volvo V70 2.0 petrol rev indicator shows about 1500 revolutions when ignition is on, petrol pump is running constantly. When I start the engine it runs unclean, when giving gas it goes out. At the petrol pump 12v volts are on however these are controlled by something so that they are there sometimes, sometimes not. I install 12v directly from the battery the car runs! Fuel pump relays and valve of the return line are already renewed. Whether the spinning of the rev indicator is related to the engine problem I do not know, at least both occurred simultaneously.

Hello together, I turned off my Volvo and wanted to drive with it after 2 days…null no longer says nothing more…Motor doesn’t turn, ignition shows all the lamps, however one lights up again (but goes out again despite full ignition) and that’s the warning light for errors in the motor electronics, which has never been lit before, even when starting!! Battery is new, everything is funneled}}elekt. Window lifter etc. Can someone please help me? Or give me a tip? I am severely disabled and dependent on the car, but can not afford me a workshop, because only small pension 🙁

…a few lines from me. To all of you still a healthy and happy new year. In itself this will be a sing-off here, because I got today from my workshop, where Mr. Elch stands to tuvize, a final call. My elk will no longer get a TÜV if I don’t invest at least 2000 Euro. Steering knocked out, brakes in front, springs broken at the rear (?), seat rail driver seat broken etc. were only the things that have kept just like that. After the disaster with the gearbox and the associated expenses I will invest in this car no more 2000 Euro. I will pick up the iron tomorrow from the workshop and put it here on the yard, place it next week and gradually slaughter it gradually. In the offer would be: a 2.0 10v 126 PS with about 280,000 kilometers An automatic transmission, overhauled for 2500,- a leather equipment with seat heating even on the back seat and the rest of a (almost) full equipment and parts, which I have arrived at Scuty and which here is still sadly on Halde. I have to make a good start now. I have a little confused at all the same time.