Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello! Volvo V70 I Bj 99 Automatic I have problems there. Followed by it. I let myself change the Simmering in the automatic transmission from a free workshop. It oiled. First everything went dazzling but after about 4 weeks suddenly nothing went while driving. I had oil loss and the car could be pushed despite P position. Later when towing and lifting I saw that the drive shaft had jumped out to the right. The mounting bracket was completely gone with screws. So no wonder. Now I am on it myself and hang only on the crossbar the front screw firmly is solved. Now my question? Do I have to solve the other two connections of the crossbar on the body also yet or can I now with a hammer and a wood which the pressed mother knocks out.? Track rod is also off. Unfortunately, the drive shaft by pushing on my property has been almost turned on again. But I have to move back neither before yet. I hope it is not bent? I am short of giving up the Elch. (I don’t know that the Ding has to be able to replace the Ding Wave.

Hello guys I drive a Volvo 850 recently added the beverage holder to the center console and wonder what there is/was for the Volvo 850? What do I already have in the carriage? Full leather SC805 BC climate Tracs cruiser Drink holder Middle console Fog headlights Seat heating Electric window lift at the front Electric sunroof Removable AHK will soon be installed Main light I don’t like. Stand heating is probably too expensive? Do you have any idea?

Hello everyone, at about 1500Umin, when accelerating, a vibration from the dashboard occurs for a short time. I can’t get places from where it comes from. My experiments were already: center console & car radio removed and held everywhere and obeyed, but no change can be detected or located. Vibration still available. Furthermore, the windscreen wiper cover is removed to get to the 4 screws that hold a large part of the armature. These screws pulled after, no difference, unfortunately. Now I’m perplexed. Can anyone else help me? Is there any such thing as technician bulletin or secret tips that only the friendly one knows? Thank you, Mario Volvo, BJ2000, 200Tkm, gasoline, 140PS

Very short and short: I wanted to replace the crossbars, prepared everything nicely, vehicle mounted, wheels removed, bolt connection on the frame, then came the screw behind the brake disc….I spent about 2h trying to get this piece out…unfortunately missing. Before the screw starts to deform, I gave up and fixed the old stuff again and only changed the coupling rods…. Result: steering wheel is pretty bad and I have no glimmer as I get the screw out! Roast releaser was used. I always read something of hot, but at the place? With the cuff right above it? And I have to go to TÜV this month! And my fear is that the workshop will take forever and I have to bear the costs! My next approach would be to get more space and arm clearance from the self-help workshop / lifting platform…. But I think that I don’t want to strain the material at this point too, if I still have to get that from Mecihtyl and the crossbars!

Good evening, I’m a newcomer here, because I have a great impression of your competence. After my Lambda light flashed up recently, we found out in the workshop that the flex tube is leaking and I hope that this is the only reason for it. Since I don’t want to invest as much money in my car (and can), I would like to do as much as possible. 1.At Skandix, a new cracker with flex tube costs about 110€. I trust in the crusher exchange with my father. Only I ask myself, is the end of the flex tube welded to the KAT again, or is there another intended connection? At the welding process, it would then be hapern during self-assembly. 2.The workshop offered to weld a new flex tube for 170€. That seems quite a lot to me, or? 3. Can I determine, without expanding the cracker, whether it might have a crack? In this case, of course, I would choose variant 1. A lot of text, but I hope that I have brought it all over intelligibly.

Hello dear Volvo community, I’m driving a Volvo 850 from 1992. It’s a gasoline 2.0 20V as a switch. A few weeks ago, unfortunately, the water pump stuck to me and so the timing belt jumped down. Result: 18 of 20 valves are crooked??? Then I ran a new 2.0 20v with relatively little running power (145000 … so drive in again in silence…) and then reinstalled it with all the new seals etc. The engine and car runs as if never another had been inside. Except for a small problem: Since a few days cracks the Elsch when driving or when changing loads. But I can’t hear my 4 crack noises. From time to time it is easy to notice it in the steering wheel or in the pedals. Then I have a bit quivered and found the “known” problem, that the drive shafts in or at the wheel bearings cracked up again. I also read that it is easy to stick in the wheel bearings or fatter or any distance rings (which I haven’t found). However, the idea of how to change the load is possible.

Hi I have a problem with my Volvo S70 2.4l 144PS BJ.98 automatic. Recently, after driving on uneven road, I simply ran out of engine. Couldn’t start it after that and had to tow the Volvo. I no longer have any sparks of ignition, neither after the ignition distributor or directly at the ignition coil. But I measured the ignition coil, which is still ok. What else could this be? No fault lamp burns and the starter turns normal. The petrol pump also works. Between pin 3 and 4 on the plug A52 of the ignition coil are 12V and the ground points I checked. Thanks for the help!

Moin to everyone It’s about a 98 V70, 144hp, gasoline. History: Sometimes it starts very badly. It doesn’t sound like a lack of fuel or too little amperes but rather like the whole engine is booming. MKL is working. After several unsuccessful selection attempts in two free workshops I drove to the Volvoglass Palace today. O-Sound:”I have to look for the old tester first”. Read out, error 3-1-4, camshaft sensor signal. The encoder sits under the top moto bearing and seems to be attached only with two cocks. Question: 1) Can you change it so easily (so unscrew it, pull it out, plug it in and screw it) or is there even more to consider? Exact position; release oil before; etc? 2) What exactly is the name of the part? camshaft signaler? camshaft sensor? camshaft sensor? I can’t find anything at Skandix. Note: The “friendly” wants to have about 150€ for changing?

Hello forum, I’m thinking of putting such a Bluetooth adapter. What are your experiences with it? Is the quality of the conversation good? I would use the part mainly as a hands-free device in conjunction with an iPhone 8 Plus. Greeting Guido

Symptom: Front axle clatters in a single articulated state no matter if right or left- impact on unevenness ( e.g. Kopsteinpflaster ). Was today at the TÜV on the rüttel – plant. Not reproducible. Engineer found nothing and means everything top. Also the steering is tight and has no appreciable game. So everything save. Nevertheless, what clatters. Independently of speed, so drive shaft is also not. Have now everything through: SD new ( incl. dome bearings ) coupling rods transversal handlebars Stabi track rod heads and track rods are good and have no lockable game. Klammers sounds metallic like a rod against thicker metal. Could it be that the auxiliary frame is not right, or too far behind or front, so that the rod clatters? Any thoughts???