Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello dear elk community, because just on holiday at the beautiful Baltic Sea – after a cross country trip in the heavy rain and storm last night I heard a sharping, creaking noise at the front at a faster turn to the right. Unfortunately, due to the weather I could not immediately take a look under the elk (V70 I – BJ99/00) – I suspected a jammed branch or similar. Then I looked up this morning more closely and found in addition to a nice greeting from the marten, which probably both external axle cuffs show cracks and fat exit. Nue the elk stands in the workshop and let tomorrow both external drive shaft cuffs swap. Someone knows how long the cuffs hold on the drive shaft in the cut so hard. I hope that the joints have not got a blow and the problem is solved with the replacement of the cuffs. Thanks and greetings, Oliver

************ I already posted this message in the (from 2001) forum, but lack of answers I try it again here, because I think there are still a few more with Audi-TDI engine. Thanks! ************ Hello people, with my V70 2.5D (EZ 10/2000) there is an urgent oil change. But I would like to bring my own oil to the workshop and am now a bit confused what kind of oil I should buy. Unfortunately my operating instructions are in Italian (re-import) and on the volvo website is the oldest guide for the model ’04, where no Audi engine is listed anymore. Therefore I can not find the right information. Of course I want to use a brand oil (e.g. Castrol) . On the website of Castrol Germany several possible oil types are listed. 1. Castrol MAGNATEC 5W-30 C3 2. Castrol MAGNATEC Diesel 5W-40 B4 3. Castrol Turbo 5W-40 The edge line of Castrol is fully characterized by the oil manufacturer? What is the difference between 5W and 40?

You know better than me I have to look at this car this weekend. Now I have volgende problems. What should I look at when I look at this car. what are the repair costs ? What do I have to pay attention to with the Turbo. What do you mean to the advertisement some I should not buy a car because the seller is a car dealer and dealer for foreign exports (autoexports) and foreign citizens.C70 T5 greets all

Hello! I’m interested in a C70 convertible, but I’ve read that the dome truss (e.g. in a sports suspension) is an absolute “must-have”. What would you say if a car had a sports suspension and no dome truss is installed. The car is a car from 2004 with 63,000 km. Absolute KO criterion?

Moin, hardly any problem to solve, starts the next one… today a little bit crafted, the glass break sensor changed again, still does not work, I probably still have to go with Volvo again, then seems to be still a software problem -.- however… car stood about 1.5 hours MAXIMAL with open door and interior lighting OUT, so not really THE consumer now… Anyway, the battery was after death… Okay… thought me well, take off help and then were on the way, everything worked out wonderfully, several times between inside and then drove off again after some time… well, then I thought, but now you drive another 10 km of highway, so that at least a little bit of juice is in the battery… Did I think… on the car path up, charging control light went on… SUPER… At home times measured, 13.3 volt charging voltage at EXCELLENT light, at switched light 13,15-13-2 volts… Is it always directly the complete Lima? Or is there still other “main suspect” ? Greet, Hjalmar 🙂

Good evening forum! I’ve been tormenting Aunt Google for a long time now, what it might be about… Starter goes through wacky, after about 10sec (or sometimes 3, ider 15s) the engine then goes off abruptly and runs clean on all cylinders. The stationary gas evenly. I exclude LMM, because the engine starts just as ticky when the LMM is plugged off. It goes out when I plug in the LMM then. Empty speed controller is suspected. But does not fluctuate the speed. Also, does not go out. Nocks, or crankshaft sensor? Symptoms? I don’t know. Power is 100% there when it runs. Petrol pressure regulator? Does the ignition system stop too late? I also exclude the immobilizer. Also, I think that the nozzles won’t drip, otherwise it wouldn’t run saube and the Lambda would complain. Do you have any ideas? Ohso, no, error memory is not (yet) read out.

Hello together. I’m just falling in love with a T5 station wagon. Ride 850 GLE so far, also only combos, and am very happy with the Swedes. The T5 should change for 1900.- the owner. 198,000km, gears changed at 119,000km (with water pump). It should hold a bit. What with but worries are the brakes. The rear look rather shaky, the pads seem to be down and the caliper is actually only rust. At the front it looks so good. Also when braking you hear a frictioning noise and the bite leaves you wanting to. It slows down, but not as it belongs to such a force spretz. For me it’s interesting now what the brakes cost me. I guess at least 1 kiloEuro if I leave in front and back.

Moin Moin, I need your help, my elk (125 kW petrol MJ 2000 250tkm) always has sporadic power loss. On the highway he can no longer make it more than 4000 rpm. Also in the city I sometimes kick the gas on the sheet metal and I only speed up at the snail speed, other times everything is normal again and I think I am sitting in a fresh elk. But I also have no mistake when reading out in the memory. Oh yes, it does NOT jerk and twitch, only no more accelerations just. The following parts are freshly changed: air mass knife, throttle valve (repeated), lamda control probe Have now actually only the ignition or the injection on suspicion. But how can I find out where or in which cylinder the error lies? Or do you still have an idea where the error might come from? I am grateful for every advice. Wish you a nice rest day.

Moin Gemeinde, my good old Swedes, rode the devil yesterday and caused me a valve damage in the first cylinder. Candle is worn away and that was it. I measured pressure already all 2-5 only the first one no longer. Someone knows a free factory state here near him and also familiar, for a normal price. I myself have little confidence in my abilities regarding disassembly of engine. The friendly would like to have minimum 2mill As perhaps some know I have no garage and know how not for it. I can help safely and/and sometimes also screw small screws but then it stops. Most of what bothers me is that I have made all the others of tooth belts over brakes, transverse handlers, shock absorbers, climate etc. Almost 3000€ installed on new parts and now that. My wife wants to give away the good one I can and does not want to separate. Maybe there is one here nearby, the idea of time and desire to deal with things with me. For help to always have nice village of all the chapels in Weimar76.

Hello municipality I am a newcomer in relation to Volvo but must say that I am positively overwhelmed after my BMW, to the problem I have installed a new climate compressor (used) but the problem that the climate compressor does not get any current, the control lamp goes on when switching on the thre number goes high but the compressor remains off, current does not come to the compressor. I have checked the RE current arrives but I could not find any current output at the gray cable that from the RE to the compressor feeltr safety ok need help someone already had the phenomen and how is the aid, the friendly in the further city can not detect the missing memory its statement the connection to the fault spoke cannot be established, I am grateful for every advice. Best greetings PS. with window lifters I have problems from the front I can not control the rear outside of the HR but only in close position of nites can only be opened and closed to the dogs.