Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello, I want to change my battery soon (Monday) – can it be that the Volvo all in all (or only at 850) are only cracked? I can hardly imagine that such a plastic part should hold the heavy battery (especially when driving by people *feiff, look into the air*). Good ride! Torsten – the XC fan (hopes otherwise that the poles are already greased with the new battery and that my conventional tool is sufficient for the pole screws – first cut off plus pole, then minus pole and to bridge a 9V battery at the cigarette connection – or?)

Meal, yesterday it was the first time I noticed when parked: When my steering is shunting in both directions. The limiters are not, it is already creaking far before the attack. It comes clearly from outside and is both while driving and standing the case. Someone an idea? C70I, ’98 Greeting

Hey guys, I hope to get back to your valuable tips on how to do this. V70 04/1997 with TRACS and B5252FSproblem 1) Start – occurs very sporadically, tendently after short rides – engine goes off immediately when starting/tween, so starter always turns, then engine starts audible and then goes off immediately – if then it does not start several times, wait after a while – keys for ignition short wait and then start has solved the problem for longer time, but now it happens again – petrol pump runs audible for 2sec on ignition – if car runs once, there are no problems guess so far: fuel relay or immobilizer/antenna ring The following errors I have read out (Delphi): immobilizer (way lock – Immo 2) 221 – transponder communication immobilizer (way lock – Immo 3) 234 – transponder communication – no communication I have read out now when it happens again but now this antenna ring is suspected. 2) ABS TRACS – the most likely to be driving at the time of the time of the time of the cycle (recommence) (recommence)

Hello, also for next year I would like a calendar nice. Unfortunately there are a few changes, therefore the ? in the title. Presumably I am working 2 weeks abroad and also otherwise my time is unfortunately short (Sellentest in April). For this reason I do not manage the previous process. Also with the printer is such a thing as I have heard. Wouldn’t want to exhaust this, it was finally a courtesy and absolutely brilliant that the two years worked so well. I can offer the following. We create a calendar together, as well as the years before. Then I put a PDF of the finished calendar with the previous software put together here in the forum. (Time limited e.g. for 2 weeks). Then everyone interested can access it and possibly contact a printer. Maybe you know some people in the area, then not everyone has to go individually. Here in the north we have e.g. a WhatsApp group and meet us always times. Would that be ok for you? Otherwise, too, please make further suggestions.

Hello you dear Volvo connoisseurs! When I start the engine a few short grind, quick, jaul sounds from under the bonnet, stop like when a ball bearing slowly gives up the mind (I think). That stops after a short time and then remains calm. I assume, however, that will occur more and more often and therefore I would counteract early. I strongly assume it is the LM, servo pump or the belt tensioner. LM & servo pump are still original, belt tensioner sometimes made new at 130T km. Now about 340Tkm are on the clock and the V70 is 24 years old. From me everything can come slowly. Has kept for ever. But sometimes theoretically and possibly even practical, can one determine by the sound from where it comes from? I have the wedge belt quickly down. Thus a one after another exchange is also not super expensive. Thanks for your opinions! Ohso, is Ridex also Ok to take or better Bosch and similar. Is just a bit more expensive. Maybe I am also on the wood and it is something completely different. Better ask the connoisseurs. Dear greeting Mario

Moin, moin I have a problem with my Volvo, this find every now and then to jerk, no longer took on gas and then went out some times when he did not catch himself anymore. After about 1min standing he ran again quite normal as if there were nothing. Now I confessed from work to go home and on the highway with 120 kmh he went out without warning and since then no more. If I try to start the car again, only the starter runs over. Volvo 850. 2.5L 170Ps. 1992Bj 165,000 Km. Vllt. do you have an idea what it might be, can I find out otherwise if I have a piston eater or something? Greetings

Moin together, some Volvisti have written to me whether there is no hall grill in 2024… Answer – eähmmm, no, is there not Whaaat ?? It is simply too much to do at present… House construction Young people Company New Job Therefore I don’t have time to organize such an event. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa is a new event. From 2025 onwards, the hall grilling is continued in old tradition – only in October, but in spring. So to say, as a season. It has turned out over the years, the climate change always makes a meeting in October a lottery game, while in March, April, June there was always good weather. Until then always good driving and comes all heal over the winter! Markushttp://aelg-garage-bargstedt.de/

For some time now I have noticed less and less charging pressure / power. I have just three quarters rash (0.75 bar) with the Stage1 control unit, with the original control unit I get only half rash (that would be about 0.5 bar). I also need a lot more fuel. I don’t come under 11 l. Also not with gentle driving and 120 km/h highway. Previously 9l standard (soft) and 8l was possible and less than 10l normal. The following was done: – LMM is new (Bosch), – CBV (Diaphragma) was leaking half a year ago – TCV was replaced with IPD (has curved), back to old original part – vacuum hoses new – charging air hoses new Can the Wastegate be tested in built-in condition, how can I check the TCV? Do you have all original Wastegate and TCV (solenoid) in it? Or am completely in the wrong place looking and my cat is clogged, or the loader is after less than 400’000 km by. Gruss Roland

Yesterday the tires changed. From 16 inches to 15 inches winter tires. On stage. Oil change and brake fluid change were also added. Car stands on the ground again and now it cracks when I hit the steering wheel by approx. 45 to 90 degrees to the left or right. But also not always. And if, then only at the stand! The steering gear is not 5000 km old and dense, cross handlebars and track rod heads exactly as old. On summer tires I also have nothing It doesn’t matter if the servo is running or not. Why this just occurred with the change of the tires is a mystery to me. The cross joint in the engine compartment is a sprayed, so not dry. I had taken the two rims at the front today again, not to notice any abnormalities. Maybe one of you had such a case or a case. a similar case.

Moin, After having for some time the phenomenon that my turn signal (mostly, but not always) continues to flash when I have pulled off the ignition key, or, I can turn on the turn signal, when the key is pulled off, I now have another ‘unusual’. A few days ago the battery was empty, car was standing on the road. Deepest charging. No idea why. Battery charged, reinstalled. Next day a neighbor came and said that on my Volvo the light is burning. It b The key was not in the ignition lock. When I had finished the car the last time, no light was burning. So the battery had been empty. In detail: If this phenomenon occurs, then I can turn on the light, turn on the flasher, and turn on the heatable rear window/mirror heating. In addition (mostly) the belt warning light starts to flash after a while, when the light is switched off. This is particularly funny, as this lamp is usually not touching (i.e. ignition) whether I’m sitting on the seat or not. This can only be prevented by putting the belt in the lock when I leave the car. What’s not possible: instrument lighting when the light is off, ventilation fan, window lifter. In short, everything that belongs to ignition level I doesn’t seem to work, and it works. Everything that belongs to Ignition Level II. As I said, when the key is removed. And not always, but mostly. If the key is in the ignition lock, then everything works. Except for the belt warning light for the driver’s seat. The phenomenon doesn’t always occur. Most of the time, however, it starts after a while after I have pulled the key. So I can go shopping for a short time, it’s all over when I leave the car, and when I come back, the full outside light and the Gur burns. twarnleuchte rattert. Can anyone make a rhyme on it? Ignition lock? Contact plate ? …???? I am grateful for every hint.