Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello guys, it’s embarrassing for me and I could slap my ears for so much stupidity. When driving after the ATF change on my V70I 2,5 bi-fuel, year ’98, I gave gas in the stand with the brake kicked, the lever on D. After a few seconds the flow of force would suddenly be interrupted, with a rather terrible, cracking, rattling noise. I took away gas directly and switched to N. After that again on D and could continue normally. Since then I have been about . 400km driven and everything works well. Except that twice during this time I switched off the gearbox after the acceleration and then took away gas only very reluctantly again. Switching down while giving gas or kick down works perfectly. Today, however, the same thing happened to me again, just because I gave strong gas when starting up. This time the noise was similar, but not so loud, because it was not such a high moment as the first time. What could d have I broken a lot now? I would be grateful for answers. Please don’t ask me why and why. It’s really idiotic. Greetings, Falko

Moinsen, crass about what you think about a boring Hausmann Sunday I know that there is no general durability specification for couplings, this is dependent on driving mode and especially on the starting skills of the respective driver What I’m surprised about is that I don’t have any documentation about a clutch replacement and on the other hand it doesn’t look like the gearbox has been separated from the engine! The point is, my T5 has 328,000 on the Uh r and the clutch has been completely inconspicuous the last two years, clean, does not pull and does not slip! Can it be that it is actually the first clutch? If yes, we can make a competition out of it (Sorry dear Schaltfaule ) Greeting Johnny EDIT: I was only surprised because I know so many NON-Volvo drivers who had to make the clutch at the latest at 200,000

Hoi, I changed my middle console yesterday, because the old one had a few breaks (and underneath the broken parts clacked in curves, one I did not find, of course, as I noticed this morning *klackerklacker* ). I had to find out that the frame, which was in the bottom of the old switch bag, was already broken and therefore the whole thing was glued only with sealant. Nu let it expand again, but the whole bag is discreetly over, why I Where do I get such a part best from? Skandix has nothing, Ebay was also low. If I get an “alternative bag” instead of an original, I get it easier over the stick (the third-party ones are often tied up at the top of the edge). Can the rubber cuff stay under it? Where can I get a new frame to plug in in in this case? Only from the friendly one? (which is guaranteed to have tens of quatrillion euro for it again – is yes (excl. a functional part but an optical part)

Hello dear Elchgemeinde, Will buy a c70 t5 automatic at 121.000km Bj2000, where the Mkl and the Ets lights up.Error reading resulted in turbocharger, overpressure sensor input low.The speed is stable when running empty and when driving slowly everything was okay.If you delete the error, the lights stay out.After switching off and on again, the lights light up again after a few seconds at the same time.What do you think it can be?

Hello Fit the rims from the XC 90 to the Volvo Kombi 850 2.5 20V, built in 03/1995. Both with a hole circle of 5 x 108. Which tyre size would be possible ? The wheel houses I would find as far as it would be necessary.

Hello, I’m about to buy a Volvo 850 2.5. 20V with manual transmission. Before I do this I wanted to make sure and inform you here. I wanted to get advice from you. I’m looking for a car for the next 1 to 1.5 years that will bring me reliably from A to B. I hope you can help me. Here are some data. The car is located at a gas station and has been offered for sale for some time. Built. 1994 Kilometersand 277000 Previous owners: 4 TÜV: 01 /2019 V-belt new Price: 850€ Condition is rather so lala… The rear bumper hangs. There are probably holders broken. (picture1) The dashboard does not look good in 2 places. Center console right and front passenger airbag. Glove compartment broken has been fixed with armored tape. Inside totally dirty… climate does not work. Rear lights totally white… In addition, the engine clacks when it is cold. As soon as the warm one hears nothing and the engine has a quiet run. And I have a loose S Chill found at the intake manifold from which some oil comes out. I have some pictures. I took a photo of the vehicle license once.

Hello everybody, have had the problem for some time that my spark plugs are extremely lost. I have to clean them every 3000-4000 km so that no detonators occur When turning off came the error 3-4-3 (according to Google “fuel pump relay interruption / short circuit” To the car, ZKD is new, VSD are new and oil trap also renewed. Has someone had an idea or already the same Feheler? Thanks in advance 850erElch

Moin, I’ve read many tips here and I hope the forum can help me. In short, the facts: Volvo V70 (I), 2.5l diesel (144hp), automatic, year 99. I have several problems that are probably connected somehow: On the one hand, when driving, the motor, ABS and brake lamp, tacho and DZM fail. Partially, the automatic arrow still flashes. This happens when the car is warm or it is warm outside. Leave a night and when it restarts, it’s all right. The assumption went to cold soldering points in the ABS control unit. Therefore control unit changed, nevertheless problem present. Readers (in free workshop AND at Volvo) connected, no one comes in to read or delete error code. In addition, my heating is without function. Control for the heating / air conditioning replaced, the same problem remains. I can turn on the fan with the slider, temperature control AND air flow flaps however I can not v If the car is driving, it feels like it is running in emergency run, i.e. the engine is driving, but does not have the full power (on the highway approx. 140max), switches late… All in all sea very annoying and unsatisfactory. Does anyone have an idea where I should look again / what should be tested? I can hardly drive with the car (no tacho, no heater, doesn’t pull so much..) Hope to find someone here who would have a hot tip!!! Bin aus Berlin, often also in the Hamburg/Lübeck area on the way THANK YOU IN THE PREPARATION!

Hello guys, I accidentally drove my elch empty, ok, okay, not well, but sometimes it’s only on the last pusher since I always try to fill up under 1,50., sometimes gets scarce 🙂 anyway since the Lambda lights up constantly during the ride, was not before, and He starts irregularly, sometimes quite normal, sometimes bad, and sometimes not at all 🙂 But if He runs then He runs without a problem! someone’s idea what that could be!? before He ran without any problems… I suspect that the memory would have to be deleted, but I have too little idea… anyway I hope to get around the workshop… I am grateful for every tip!!!

Hey people Have a Volvo 850 komby 20 , 126 ps with normal chassis . When driving in a rough way I notice time and again that the Elich is quite bumpy yet and shameful also tends to oversteer as understeer about so ale you would scour the steering wheel so that it breaks out with the hex , dampers and springs are still quite new . Now I have heard that it should bring what if I put the elk deeper 30 mi should be enough since now I have found deeper leach springs from Einba ch these are but only springs can you take these or that you have to buy new dampers ?? however it is the cheapest wariante to give as still thousands of euros ?? what do you mean however I have front oil pressure damper and back gas pressure happy about every tip