Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hy, the martyrdom with my bad exhaust gas values should finally come to an end after a lively & expensive parts exchange should be completed. In the course of this, one saw that the turbo (already again ) has cracks on the bridge (only 3 years ago or so made new), but also the exhaust gas manifold is full of cracks inside (but still goes…). Exhaust gas temperature.Feeler would not be wrong here? Now I saw in the net https://…g-in-japan-performance.de/…/ Now ask whether the plug&play fits the 3″ BSR downpipe? Think that this is better than the original cast part?! Does any of you have a recommendation about this? Thank you lg Jerry

Good day to the circuit! My air conditioning has the following problem: It cools quickly and wonderfully and yesterday I was at the climate maintenance and everything has been filled tight and new etc., so no problems about this, it cools now even better with icy wind under full load Now to the actual problem, which before the climate maintenance was already already present, however, I thought it would be with a possibly too low filling level together: I let the climate run yesterday on full load in the stand(-gas) 25 minutes and everything perfect. However, if I drive, then it turns off sometimes and does not start again, only when I manually operate the switch and switch it on again after 3min. I know that the climate itself switches off at short notice with certain factors, bspw. at full gas or when the outside temperature is < 0°C etc. And that's exactly what I think comes to this error: I drive and everything is wonderful and at some point it is out and doesn't go on again ... Does someone know such a mistake or knows/know what this might be?

Hello together, I am in despair my Volvo C70 2001 t5 2.3 liter spins since yesterday. Error code is displayed nixht. During the switching process the power suddenly falls into the basement. If I give gas in idle mode on 3000 revolutions and then the brake kicks he takes no more gas and falls off on stand gas. In other forums it read what it could have to do with the air mass meter or the gas pedal adjustment. Someone had something like this before? With diagnosis device all errors deleted Ets goes out but after start of the engine again and the game starts from the beginning. I would be grateful if someone here already had some ideas about it before. Had it just in reperature and was afraid to grab it deep into the bag again. For tips I am really very grateful.

Hello, I have found a relatif inexpensive replacement for my capputen V70 TDI, the only one the previous owner has not taken it so accurately with the maintenance intervals, which were always made by the workshop in the village! The fact is that the dental worker is already 12 years old even if the car has not yet exceeded the mileage limit until the next revision (all 120 000 KM). As far as I remember, the change interval is at 8 years. I had once again called Volvo in Deuschland and France for a standart estimate. Teeth belts with pipapo (simmerrings, flywheels, corner rollers, etc….) In D. 1200,- € In F. nearly 2000,- € So if I want to double the car value I should do that. But maybe one of you knows a nice friend, in the area Offenburg/Kehl or radius 50 Km of one not the whole month salary of a middle-sized citizen makes up for 6 hours of work. Maybe someone can help me over PN/PM already thanks you.

The reason for this is that the buffers in the lock lose their tension over time and are pressed in by the lock trap. Users like tdi14 have come up with the idea of using a cork. This is an option, but I would not call it a long-term one. I have spoken to FT-Albert today and the buffers are of course not available individually, they are integrated in the lock. And the lock, oh wonder, is Volvo, there is no more. I have asked him if he would like to make a buffer together with Skandix. He would like to take care of it only if it doesn’t turn out, I will do it. I would just ask you to write under here if you would be interested in the buffers. LG, Tim

Please don’t scold at the same time, this topic has already been extensively worked on, I know! But with my 850’er it’s somehow different! After reading the recommended instructions for deactivation or removal, I started searching for the said module. Where is this built-in? in the area where it should be according to the instructions it’s not! There are some black cables, but they all go neatly into the compact plugs. So there’s no clue. So only the cable from the reader (where the pen is plugged in) remains to be tracked. This cable disappears upwards via a ventilation pipe to the middle of the dashboard and can’t be tracked anymore. Radio removed and heating control removed, but the cable remains gone. Who can help me?

Good evening After a few tests I found out now that the wheel sensor is actually defective at the rear right (control unit is ok and soldered). Resistance measurement on the sensor … it really is. Now to my question… I have heard that when you pee out the cables, you can stick the new cables to the old cables and pull them up in the trunk without having to drain the tank. Does anyone have experience with it? Would you like to let off the tank, because I have heard that sometimes the welded nut of the tank belt can tear down in the body and you can’t get to it any more 🙁 If you were great, you could give me some information about this vehicle: V70i 2.5 144PS

Hello to the round, I’m new here in the forum, hot Martin and currently live in Chemnitz. Since March I am (in the beginning even more proud) owner of a Volvo V70 I, year of construction at the end of 96 with the B5252FS/S engine (144 hp). Meanwhile the car has 391 tkm down, the last approx. 5000 km were unfortunately not all too fun anymore. Here are the symptoms that the engine shows: – relatively high oil consumption (approx. 1.3 l / 1000 km) – spark plugs black after approx. 1500 km, as a result of which: – heavy jerking, partly no/bad gas acceptance below 2000 rpm – blue and black qualm when giving gas – petrol odor – exhaust gases from the oil measuring rod (so not from the rod, but from the pipe ) – power holes in the lower speed range – relatively high consumption (approx. 12 l/100 km) My workshop has today done a compression test, these values of 10 bar (cylinder. 5) linearly rising to 11.5 bar (cylinder. 1). What I would like to hear from you: valve joints and oil – unfortunately, but I would not have used to replace yours.

Hi people, I recently had the throttle flap of my V70 overtake. Since I installed it again, I have the phenomenon that every time I step on the clutch during the ride, e.g. when rolling at a junction, the engine turns up to 1500 revolutions. As soon as the engine is warm, it behaves almost normal. The speed is then always around 950 rpm. Recently I stood in front of the car with an open bonnet, because I noticed that the engine gives a hissing noise shortly before every speed increase. Sounds like something is injected with high pressure. When the whole first time occurred, the MKL too lit up. But it turned out at some point again by itself. I can’t read fault memory because the MSG refuses communication. I can rule out false air, I already tested that. LMM seems to work, at least the engine runs very restlessly as soon as I pull off the connector from the LMM. What else could it be?

Hello forum, I am in possession of a Volvo 850 With about 120 hp (don’t have the exact data in mind). It is year 96 and served as a construction vehicle. Equipment: leather, window lifter front, seat heating front, radio with CD changer (not original) cruiser Tracs fog lights air conditioning works automatic winter tyres 4 pieces Defects: summer tyres front Slicks Unround engine run Lamda check lights cooling water loss probably at the heat exchanger back left is a bucket of dispersion paint out of tipped out.(see photos) Front right had a small hit. Kilometer counter stopped several years ago at 208,000