Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello people, the following problem has my 850. Old battery after a few days and then three times only short distance (2 times 3km plus morning and evening 20 min of floor heating) empty. That’s clear to me was not a good idea and the driving distance can not charge the battery! Since I didn’t want to exchange it for long and ordered for 100 cruisers a 60Ah Varta and after delivery a day charged ( charger a Ctek 5.0) a built up and start attempt! Super Starts as well as for long no more. Everything set again (radio, clock in the combination instrument and heater) just for this morning and 20 min after start of the stand heating in the car and key around, kotz gürg organ organ organ, just started!!! So nix drive but only again to the charge. Just checked with my Zangenampermeter and 100 mA rest current, stand heating and measured. This pulls still at start 6A and levels it at Vollast at 3A. What I had to do with the heater is quite a bit of the time that I can measure the old school with a lot of time!

Hey, I had the holder for the additional headlights for 850 from MJ94 built as a prototype from 4mm Edelstal. It is planned to produce a small series on request. Now I am still looking for the holder from the V70 as a sample to take the dimensions and also to offer a replica. Would someone have the holder and would lend it to me? Of course on request against deposit and also not quite for lukewarm. Would I be happy about feedback. Thanks Janko Anbei times the pictures from the holder for 8s.

But if there is no problem with the front brake, then the front brake will not be happy with the front brake, but the front brake will not be happy with the front brake, which was in front of the front brake hose and front brake hose change (and more) with ABS still closed by the previous owner, is too lax and has too much difference. I have changed the brake cheeks and front brake hoses, had to fry 1x each axle and had to run the brake fluid empty. All connections are tight, it has been repeatedly with the device and pedal ventilated and there are no more bubbles to be found, but now it is hissing my BKV or HBZ when braking. Do I still have air in the system, and how can I get that out? Does that hang with the clutch hydraulics together? (coupping feeling is unchanged) Did I have my BKV or HBZ and how did I test it? Only indication are the brake pads installed by the front brake owner, but the last side would not have been happy with the brake plate.

Hello! I just saw that the TÜV rated the lack of my headlight cleaning system (wiper arms) as a considerable lack! I thought it was only Xenon and LED so!? The joke is that I’ve been driving for over 6 years without. 3 past tests without this complaint. Why did he do that? Now the problem is that I have mounted both arms again and see there… right / passenger doesn’t work anymore, or twitches only once and is stuck. The spare part is so no longer available and I pay, if available again at Skandix, certainly not 250€ for such an useless gimmick! I don’t want to buy this anyway, because first of all I can’t find it, only abroad… and secondly a 25 year old electric engine from abroad?!! Neee… Volvo 8628288 So what do!?

To the vehicle: Volvo 850 2,3 T5 166KW BJ. 04/1994 Petrol/LPG Body Moin people, I don’t know anymore, my 850 ran always without problems and one evening I turned off the car on the yard and in the morning started the theater then, engine turns, but does not start. I then tested: spark plugs, ignition cables, ignition distributors and runners, everything unobtrusive, sparks at the spark plug and at the ignition coil checked, no spark! So short hand bought a new ignition coil and built in, unfortunately still everything dead. Instead of blindly replacing further parts I then checked the usual suspicious and on the cam wave sensor the voltages. On the plus line 1.68V, signal line 0V and mass (against +) 12V. So the engine control unit was released and the line from the control unit to the Nock wave sensor was tested, 0Ohm resistance. Then I have to check the voltage supply of the engine control unit with a 100W lamp. Terminal 15 could only be measured with the multimeter, so that the voltage broke and the same thing was connected to the control unit.

It’s my biggest riddle of all times! In November 2011 I’m getting my 94′ Volvo 850 T5, it’s driving great and is sure to get me to Munich from Stuttgart. Only the temperature (at -3°C outside temperature) turns over half of the display when the turbo is cold running. I already thought, said a friend, that it is normal after further distances that it turns up a bit. 3 days later the engine control light lights up – so I read something with you and switch to advised Lamdasonde and OT – dealer. The sign stays out for 1n week, also the fuel consumption adjusts itself from 14l to an average of only 12 liters of temperature increase but remains. Then we have bridged the fan relay, the fan engine works perfectly and jumps immediately. So I drive to Volvo to read out so much – result: Fan relays – changed – Fans still don’t start – again to Volvo – AHA ! Control unit. New control unit for 1050,- Euron ordered everywhere – but not jumps to the fan again – there is either a fan switch?

Hello together. Unfortunately, the radiator fan doesn’t start if it should do it…. First diagnosis, the fan itself is defective. Tested with direct power supply. It really didn’t jump on. Okay, exchanged for a used one, which also starts with direct power supply. To be careful, the relay is changed times. Unfortunately, everything is without success. The workshop has determined today 1,5h everything imaginable measured and tried, but it does not jump and the engine is too hot and the climate does not work in the stand. Apparently, the middle plug (which comes into the relay) does not have power. This is the plug, which has a yellow and a yellow/white cable. Someone’s idea what I / we could / should do next?! These two cables go into MStg or? fuses are also all ok….

Hi, this month the TÜV is at my door and I don’t have a serial exhaust. Built in by my previous owner still in Italy, when he registered it in Germany for the first time, he also came over the TÜV with it (“exhaust loud noise”, small lack). He then got a type plate for the next TÜV at the manufacturer in Italy and gave it to me. On it says: “NUOVA RECA MECCANICA & C. S.A.S. OMOLOGAZIONE CEE e31 55146 12-06-97 1500” I interpret this like this: 1. Line is the brand 2. Line is translated “Approval” 3. Line will probably be the time of approval for the car type and registration number Is that such a kind of ABE? Is that really enough? Thank you very much

Hello, community! I have used the SUFU, but I have remained a bit unsure. I want to strap up the summer bikes to my 855 Kombi/95 today (not yet added ). It’s Volvo – ALus 6,5Jx15x43 ( Volvo 9140545 / 6040 K1) and would like to know if I need other wheel pins than those that still hold the wheels at the moment. Maybe someone can tell me that? Thank you!

Hello, today I come with a completely different problem, namely : Have made an oil change on Saturday with 300 filters and found that the good one down is still very full of oil (after degradation of the engine cover). So cleaned, the oil change made and continues. Today, after three days, a huge oil pool in the garage. So again on stage and again everything is full of oil, only much more than before. Oil drain screw tight, oil filter tight, only the whole side where the crankshaft is, is full of oil. Presumably crankshaft Simmerring !? Now to the first question : let only Simmerring change or immediately everything incl. timing belts etc. ? (would only be due in 60 tkm) Have also read here about oil trap and flame sieve ? Have never heard of it yet and don’t even know where to be now. Then, second: my money is still not the best thing, this will in foreseeable time also give up its mind (drive often with hangers ). But now you can’t wait for a good question about it?