Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello, someone from the VADIS tried to “sort” the interiors so that I can find out which code has my interior equipment (more precisely the seats) because I have the one from the Ebay and thus the board from the engine compartment does not bring anything to me. The code has also its “own logic” and is mounted on the sheet metal in the engine compartment. The code is a 4stell number: EEEEPos 1: Model 3 = 850Pos 2: Fabric type 1 = ?? 2 = Tricotplush 3 = Tricot 4 = ?? 5 = Plush 6 = ?? 7 = Plush/leather 8 = ?? 9 = LeatherPos 3: Color 3 = Blue 4 = Red 5 = Beige 6 = Light beige 7 = Grey 8 = Light greyPos4: Serial number ? The following numbers are to be found in VADIS: 0.1,5What irritates me is that the color Black does not occur where I know at least 2 850 where black leather is in it? The black combination is not listed in the same as 39.

Yes, I know, there are neck strikes again, because this topic has often been described. A new ALTEN elk bought TÜV 08/22. Picked up and headed for home. After 10 km out at once. The usual done. fuses in the engine room o.k. solenoid valve (fuel) o.k. after tests plus to valve. Makes clack. Voltage measurement at ignition a zero. How to go on? Where is the relay 103? And the fuse. It is not in the engine room as with the 850er No. 2 V70/1 96 9101 743 Well, take the older and first buy. 50m and ruck ruck. Read out the next day and error coolant sensor. As much as I know not relevant. But you know more. Read out at the newer brought only seat heating and air conditioning, probably the remedy failed. What now. Thank you, if you accept the problem. LG Dirk Dirk

Hello together I think that I have a bigger problem with my car, have recently had to change cylinder head gasket because the engine had water consumption, after changing I have completed problem because the car on average to 1000 km eats about 5l of oil or burns when driving one sees the cloud behind and if I stand in traffic jam will be quite bad so in steadfastly smokes the back out without ending I think on short coder long the kat will be dense, what still strikes me that the second cylinder from the frown side does not spark co-running there is after cleaning the spark plug he ran what now also does not, head screws were exchanged and of course tightened after specification, fact car runs at the moment only on 4 cylinders, motor temperature constantly no making oil and water. I think about disassembly of ZK I don’t come around If someone would have had the same phenomenon I would be happy about answer from experience Thanks to everyone in advance

Well, I’m not at a loss yet, but something “nervous”….. Last year my climate broke. Diagnosis in the workshop, vaporizer defective…..In August 2015 the evaporator was changed….Thanks again to Berlin…. This season the plant was then broken again. The error was quickly found, one of the air conditioning lines that goes to the spray wall in the evaporator was covered / leaked. In order to fix this reasonably, both pipes were exchanged for used in the workshop. The old ones were so rotten that they could not be solved any more and the dryer bottle was no longer really removed. As far as so well, the works were done on 17.05… . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Hi, I want to change my upper engine bearing because my old one has broken through. I already have the old one outside and now 2 new rubber bearings there. My problem now is that the new bearings both have a diameter of 60mm and the ring where the bearing is pressed in has an inner diameter of 58.3mm. I have ordered Fhrzspecifically, Volvo 850 144Ps 9101/701. What now? Where do I get the right bearing from? I have read from the poliers, but I don’t want to have any vibrations.

Hi, since the costages with over 35°C there are my auto-climate on the highway no longer works. The following phenomena: – When the engine gets warmer, the air becomes warm & humid (no longer cools) – the air light stays on! – You can get the cooling back to the compressor from time to time, if you completely shut down for a time. – In the state the climate goes quite well. – In the case of gases / over 180km/h nothing goes anymore… – In case of a motorway stop I have put 4 liters of cold water in the direction of a compressor, in order to cool off the magnetic clutch disc – and see there: The part cooled again – EISKALT! But only for about 10km, in case of a steady motorway traffic (80-100km/h). So I first got to a big break of the compressor-well-out was not quite a problem in July.

Vorgeschichte: meine Beitrag hier berück. V70 Motorschäden I have now an offer from Motorensuche.com available: AT-Motor with 1 year, unlimited km approx. 3000,- Euro inclusive delivery available. I ask myself now the question whether it is not most economical to sell the V70 with the new AT-machine and corresponding price stroke again and buy from the money a Mercedes E 300 T TD or E 390 T TD. Since I have to drive a lot, this is according to my information, the most reliable car, not a water pump, which serves as a timing belt and in consequence as a motor killer. Here chains are installed. Before the slippery, a rattled chain comes true and both running performance and the favorable prices for spare parts are looking for their same. How is your opinion?

Hello municipality, my hand transmitter from the ZV or FB is no longer possible, I have already changed battery does nothing more. have already read various instructions in the search function and try nothing. The friendly one thinks is probably defective… have then taken my second new battery and so on… nothing Is there a way to get out whether the ZV is defective … would be my first question and after battery change something has to be considered. The friendly says theoretically only needed to change the battery then it would be good again. Here abeer also stands out something from ignition etc. for ideas I am receptively greeting Stumpanski

N’Evening, on the occasion I would like to duscure a little bit about polishes. However, I’m less interested in which of the products available on the market everyone prefers here, but it’s more about “Basics”… Let’s start: A polishing machine with 0-3000 rpm and various polishing attachments (swimming low hardness, furs, with and without abrasive skills…) is a very good start, but which attachments do I use for what purpose and which polish is suitable? I mean something like that… -> click What kind of “swimming” is now for what kind of polish (grob, fine)? Can I also polish out with the parts or only apply them? Does this also mean a sealing (wax or similar)? And at what speed should one process the different sponges with the corresponding polishes without risking overheating? Unfortunately, one finds no useful information in salesmen or operating instructions.

Moin. In my 850s, the decorative strips on the right and left of the windshield (Kombi mit Reling) are just about right in front of you and what appears to be behind it looks really unsightly. Had read somewhere that you can also use the V70. Does anyone still have some or a tip where you can get some? Greet Eric