Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello, as a newcomer here I would like to greet everyone first. Have the technical forum already collated, but unfortunately did not find out. The following problem with my Volvo 850, B5292S : must replace the thermostat housing (abbreviation TG in further text) due to crack formation caused by improper use of a hammer. The TG is connected by 3 torx screws to the moror block. The upper 2 are accessible, however, the lower one is not. And here is the problem. 1.Is there possibly a special key? 2. My (unusual) guess should be built up: -Retainer of the servo fluid light machine (can you ask the key from the spanner itself?) -Lighting machine holder (as far as I can see it) But even then I am not quite sure whether this 3 screw is really accessible. 3. or must the suction manifold be removed? 4. or is this screw otherwise accessible? If someone is in possession of a “step for instructions” or would be very grateful with tips.

Hello together, after having successfully coordinated the collection list(s) for the 20-valley and then developed by the company Ruopp and HJS the long-awaited KLR for the EURO-2 conversion a few years ago, I would like to try this now also for the T-5 with automatic transmission. Before I go to Ruopp, however, I would like to know first of you whether there is any interest in this. I WILL REQUEST THIS ANXY IN OTHER FORES! Therefore I have a request: If you are on the way in several forums, please only enter 1x, as otherwise we will be out of a wrong number of interested parties. If you have any questions, you can also mail me directly (address is deposited in the forum) or send me a PN. So, and now the list you can enter: 1. manni850 2. 3. 5. … Many greetings and everything good for 2010 Manni

Hi, My engine suspension seems to me somehow more and more sluggish and tilty. Provides for a sometimes jerky driving mode in the city. 193hp 2.4T with 5-speed, 195tkm The cracked engine side rubber bearing on the upper torque support has already been replaced before 60tkm for a PU insert. Which other bearings are still available to replace? Bzw. Which bearing is the most common (the lower torque support?) I find on ebay 6 or 7 different-looking M bearings that should fit for the engine… Pillows, hydros, lower torque supports, etc… How many hydro bearings are actually installed (possibly two?), and if 2, are the two identical ones? Need some help with the parts search. Unfortunately I don’t have a lifting platform, and wanted to have the parts there already when I get a stage seat…

Hello everyone! my 94-er 850 2.5 20V switch should now get a gas system at the nice pump prices… Well looking for Volvo gas retrofitter at Berlin and also found on the outskirts. Arrived, the yard full of 850 (about 10pcs.) looks very good. It should come in a BRC full-sequential plant, 70l tank and Flashlube (from which recommended). The whole should last 2-3 days. A week later (Tüv man was on vacation apparently) the sobering statement: “We have already hundreds of Volvos but had not had one like yours yet). Unfortunately the BRC system is not compatible with the control unit. The plant would have done without any problems in a 10V but in my apparently not”. Symptoms were a bad idle run, the rest was apparently ok. The only way out of the mess allegedly the construction of a Venturi plant…Now also the question: Does one of you has such a Volvo like my (2.5 20V 170ps BJ 94 switch) with a full-sequential plant?

Good day together, I’m new here and I have a question right away, my free workshop unfortunately gave me the bad news today after the exchange of the wheel bearing, that also carrying joints (both) and a coupling rod have to be replaced. The master looked nice in his pc, said something of, Oh the Volvo again, and with my model were crossbars and carrying joint a part. And that costs with him 130 €, so everything together including taxes and installation around 450 € I find this a lot of money and have there still several screwdrivers at hand, but now I look at Googl for carrying joints and am a bit confused about the many. Is this now really only a part? Crossbar and carrying joint in one? Are the 450 € justified? is that also cheaper? Can I order this myself on the net and then install it with a friend? And if what supplier? I would be really grateful for clever answers, because I am just a bit angry at the sweet elk, after all, have no money-sister 😉

Actually it only looked like a replacement-needed engine-side exhaust manifold seal, but after the removal of the Krummers the (free) workshop told me earlier that the Krummer itself is torn. Unfortunately it is the casting variant, i.e. the flex piece is on the cat, not on the Krummer. Does someone have such a thing to hand over? The new price is almost 400 €, quite happy. The like always helpful colleague from the Hainbachtal has already looked (thanks, Uwe), unfortunately in vain. Unfortunately, there are no third-party products to that part. What does this look like – would the conversion to the other variant, i.e. steel tube manifolds and other Kat, be useful/possible? Are the bolts on the engine the same with both variants? Steel tube manifolds and Kat are together cheaper at e**y than a single casting manifold.

Hello people, have found one among the e-mails today, where one of them claims smoothly: “…with the easy-to-use electrolyser, they save up to 55% (!) fuel. No matter in which vehicle they install it!” I only flew over it, but basically it’s about using a tank and the direct current from the battery/lima hydrogen or so-called brown gas and spit into the intake tract. I can remember dark on attempts from the chemistry class (Yes, that was already in the 60s!) where we split off banging gas with a Hoffmannirgendwas made of water. Was it always nice to show due to the bang effect. If I had been better aware, I would not have needed to ask this question today for discussion: Can this work? If yes, how? Has anyone tried it before? Am curious about your answers, the Bieber

Hello, I have a 850 10v Bj. 95. If I hit hard, it is as if the car wants to steer by itself even more. But, as I said, only when the car is hit hard. Furthermore, the trunk does not close (or close) when I lock (or close) at the driver’s door. However, if I lock up/close on the trunk, all doors will be unlocked/closed. What could these two problems cause?

a happy new year of the entire volvo community…… and yes, before I start, I could measure it myself, but maybe someone knows it here….-) I want to buy a wardrobe for the week at ikea and wanted to hear your opinion, if the three packages in which the cabinet is in fit into my elch (clear, combi)… I would of course put everything around/extend the front seat and push the packages “senkrecht” and cross-pull… the dimensions: width: 77cm height: 12cm length: 200cm 1 package ———————————- width: 59cm height: 8cm length: 209cm 2 packages I don’t think it’s possible….what do you think?

Hello together, short question about the operation of the original Volvo-Navis. From Volvo I got a CD set with I believe 19 CD’s for all of Europe. At the weekend I had the problem that the starting point was on a CD (Germany Northwest) and the destination location on the next CD (Germany West). If I insert the CD with the starting point, I can enter no destination address (at least no road). If I insert the CD with the destination location, I can enter the exact address, but he (the Navi…- we call it Johann) doesn’t know how to get there anymore. Do I really have to search for intermediate destinations every time my route goes over several CD’s and reprogram each time?? The Volvo operating manual doesn’t really give much to me… Can anyone help me? Best thanks and greeting, Eric