Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Moin Mochgemeinde ! The day before yesterday I was in the mountains with the moose. At the mountain down to the Austria side, I noticed a strange noise from the engine room area, just when I had to give up mountain high gas again (downhill almost only rolled – it was to “begin” of the mountain downhill rolling) where I had stopped. bonnet on, already the shearing was to be seen, the wedge belt had partly replaced and only a narrow strip still hung on the wheels. I immediately had the engine The temperature rise was not yet, so still standard range. I flatten that something like that after not even 30tkm happens from the last change. Does someone have similar experience ? I hope the workshop can save something. 330tkm are just down.

I was tired of driving to the dealer for errors in automatic climate control or FENIX and putting 35 euros on the table for reading the fault memory. I built a flashbox today with which I can also turn off the systems that are not read via BrickDiag or VOL-FCR at my ’96s 850. With the Blinkbox I can now read air conditioning automation (ECC), engine control (ECU) FENIX and CruiseControl. I’m probably still working with the ignition control unit, but I don’t have it on my L I got a 12V LED and a 1.8k ohm resistance. In addition a small plastic box, a button and a rotary switch with at least 3 positions. Because my soldering skills are not the best I used a ready-made OBD2 cable. The cable has a finished plug and otherwise open ends. The color coding of the cable did not correspond to any standard and a occupancy schedule was not included, so I have the necessary cables by measuring I soldered the resistor to Pin16 and then to the plus line of the LED. The minus of the LED then to the button input. From the button output two lines go parallel, one to the pin5 and one to the input of the rotary switch. The three outputs of the rotary switch I have with Pin3 (ECU,engine control unit, motor control unit FENIX),Pin6 (ECC, electronic climatre control, climate control) In this way, I can easily select which control unit I want to turn off. To make sure I remember the next month, I glued a sticker on the box with Tesa. By pressing the button (1 second) a connection between Pin16 and Pin5 and the pin of the control unit selected with the rotary switch is switched (shown by LED lights), which initiates the blinking process. In order to get to the next code, you have to press the button for 1 second again. If all the codes have been output, it starts from the front. To delete the codes, you have to read out all of them and then press the button for 5 seconds twice in a row. In between, the LED lights up permanently, but goes out after the second press. Then 1-1-1 should flash for error-free (in theory).

moin people I’ve got a big problem. I’ve been feeling a lot of winter time today, and a lot of it came out of me on the whole lot under the bar, with bricks looking up a lot of me also a little rust bump under it. so I don’t think anything bad, and try to remove the thing, I also read here in the forum that it’s nciht so the wall is and is even quite useful, just so that you can do something against the rust bumps. so far so good, but now the problem, I z so steal at the lesite, and come only to the two ends so 5-10cm far, then end, now I have the ugly torn off edges, and the rest of the bar hangs tight. has the thing already gone away someone else and has a tip for me like I get the rest out. am grateful for every tip. gruß schorso

Hello, Since I did not find anything suitable about the SuFu, I open a new topic: It is a S70 T5, EZ. 1997, 166tkm Today I discovered a small puddle on the cooling water holder, it has not yet dripped down. The coolant comes from the hose connection front. The hose leads from the container to the large cooling water hose. Under the part number this was called “Bleeding pants”. I am already aware that here no one can provide remote diagnostics Maybe someone had the same problem and knows what that might be. It will be either a clamp, hose or the container. I would start with the clamp, are they suitable here? https://amzn.eu/d/cVI2eeN I would get the cooler hose via Skandix. Thanks in advance!

In recent times, buyers of vehicles are also increasingly coming into the forum, whose vehicles have been bought as leasing backers or used cars. In the purchase decision, details are often sought for comparison, which result from the price lists of the respective model years. I would like to collect the price lists for the vehicles of the SPA- (60s and 90s series) and the CMA-platform respectively, if necessary create FAQ-articles daruas and thus bundle the price lists centrally and thus I would like to concentrate on the German price lists. So if someone has price lists lying around as PDF of the model years from 2016, please post here as an appendix – I sort them accordingly. Helpful would be information in the post about note: Discussions about the content of the price lists please limit in this thread to the absolute minimum – otherwise the last bit of clarity suffers

Colleagues, I’m certainly not the only one who has broken the lock for the lid of the fuses on the fuse box. That’s just a plastic nose and the aging is probably leading to a break here. I’ve already done this several times. A new lid costs almost 40 EUR – only for the lock I find that too much. I helped myself with a help solution, but I don’t think it’s nice (see photos). Thank you.

Hello together, here in Switzerland is the end of 2024 with analog terrestrial radio in the FM band. I have a problem now: 1) I like to listen to radio next to CD and Yatour 2) I want to keep my SC805 PSS In the SuFu I found nothing reasonable. How do you solve that. Do you not listen to radio, do you switch to MW , do you switch radio, or how do you proceed?

Hoi! My winter car is already 2 winters now because of Tüv, but the main problem is that the engine starts to stutter and then simply chokes off. You can set the clock afterwards, as soon as the operating temperature is reached after a few minutes it goes out and does not jump on. If you let it cool down it goes on again in shock. I have the MUTCH that I may have damaged a cable or so because I had to expand air filter box due to reversing light switch. EDIT: B year 1995

With my Volvo V70I (Bj. 99, Mj. 2000, switch) the speed of the course is sometimes more, sometimes little and then catches again, which for example can become a bit rough when parking. When driving and switching up on the slope it is less noticeable. I already used the search function and came across the following causers. – Clutch pedal sensor – Impulse encoder camshaft – throttle valve dirty When searching I am on a post of “Excysyr” bagging idle rundre The clutch pedal sensor 9472979 is original for approx. 120 Euro and TRISCAN for approx. 40 Euro. It is possible to take the much cheaper one of TRISCAN with this component or to better install the original one With the clutch pedal sensor, according to my research, the error is due to the installed resistance. Even with new parts, the resistance value should vary greatly … therefore question whether scho If you have experienced the cheaper part of TRISCAN, it is normal to suck off the idle speed when the engine is warm, if the engine is cold, up to about 1.5 km of driving distance. If you pedal the clutch pedal in the stationary gas, it does not affect the speed. If you give gas in the stationary gas, you save the speed to approx. 400 rpm and catch yourself shortly afterwards at 900 rpm. Thanks for Tiips

Moin dear MT Community, I currently have an itch that can only be breastfed by a Volvo 5-cylinder… I noticed this ad:https://www.kleinanzeigen.de/…/2808921075-216-4291 I can handle the optical blosures as long as the technology is correct. The car is in its original state. I am aware that you always have to do something on a 27-year-old car. I would do the maintenance myself right after the purchase, i.e. oil, filters and spark plugs. I don’t really trust the timing belt + WP, it will probably have to do a workshop. With my last C70 T5 I have quite reached into the toilet, but he had already 400tkm down + a software on it. There the engine went up with after 1500km. That one does not buy such cars, I know now, I have learned my lesson. Therefore I ask with this ad for your expertise. Of course, the future can not be predicted, but I sure who can tell Whether or not the car is core scrap. Thank you!