Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

It doesn’t get boring: Apart from the air conditioning now completely out I have the following new problem.ä: I have for the V70 an underground parking space a corner away from our apartment, where I go, if I want to invite my daughter with MaxiCosi. I had it the last days now twice (with the last two rides) that the V70 starts in the garage great, but then in front of the front door, if it should go further, very restrained and then runs like a bag of nuts – very restless incl. drop-outs. In idle mode it is reasonably possible, in reverse gear or on D it is sometimes drained under load. However, if I manage to roll away there with little gas, it catches itself after some time and runs like the youngest Swede, which you can imagine. Ignition distributors, cables and candles are a little over a year old, so I would exclude the part. Someone an idea?

Hello! When searching for new aluminium rims (and after discarding the idea of having unapproved rims registered…) I found out: Dezent TD 7,5×17 with tyres in dimensions 215/45, approved for my vehicle. What deters me somewhat are formulations in the corresponding expert report such as “Produce free-access”, “Expanding or exhibiting the rear wheel houses” or “Establishing the front apron and the fender…”. But to what extent are work really necessary in the case of the V70I (vehicle in its original condition, no modification of chassis or similar)? Steering limiters are necessary, ok. But does something also have to be changed on the body or the wheelhouses? Does anyone possibly drive such rims and can provide information? Thank you and greeting, aedifcans

Hello, unfortunately I suddenly have a jerking, noticeable power loss and misignition (it bangs under the hood), but ONLY when I pass the accelerator fully. I accelerate with half-gas the moose drives quite normally, also 100 or 120 km/h. It also runs quite normally on all cylinders. In idle I can also turn up without stuttering, so it is only under load. The symptoms come directly, whether cold or warm. I have read errors, 1-1-1… none there. twas? Which direction do I have to go? I guess: vacuum complete, ignition harness complete, throttle flap poti, camshaft sensor, petrol pressure, coolant temperature sensor does not fit to cold and warm same symptoms. Still any hot tips I don’t think of? Did an audio recording, but you don’t really hear the jerking and banging under the hood. Ah yes: MJ95, 2.0, 10V, 93kW, Fenix 5.3 Thanks in advance Bernd

Dear Volvo friends, my Volvo 850 LS automatic has had a few problems since the very latest and also has to go to the TÜV in December. I wanted to ask if someone knows a good workshop in Berlin, which is not now Volvo contract workshop for 5,000€. Or a screwdriver, which can look at my cooler. Problem: Cooler lamp lighted again and again over the summer, saw that cooler fluid is lost and refilled. Then the lid of the cooling water bursted, as o I bought a new one. Now the problem is not so strong anymore, but the radiator lamp still glows. In addition, the red arrow has not always flashed since the latest. The temperature indicator remains constant and the car drives smooth. Everything else on the car is great! Can someone help me?

Hello, with my 94er 850 with 144 hp, the ABS and TRACKS lights are now quite often on. So I took off the plug from the ABS control unit on the fender and saw that between the pins there is oil from the control unit, in the indentations. At the pins themselves was not very much. Now I have several questions. Can the oil cause the problem with the missing ABS? How does the oil get there? I mean that the oil filler lid is no longer dense was and I had replaced the oil trap to counteract overpressure. I did not dare to flood the area simply with brake cleaners, because I do not know if this then possibly runs into the control unit. Using a paper cloth did not do anything. How can I clean this best? What can I do to solve the problem with the ABS, if it is not the oil? Thank you very much in advance. You have always been able to help me so far.

Hello in the round, at my Hausser T5 were original and registered 15mm track width per side mounted on the HA. Obviously the then “self-turned” were. Because of material fatigue I have bought new ones. Eibach with 10mm per side. The inside dimension 65mm fits actually, but the disc cannot be pressed completely over the fat cap of the wheel hub. The inside dimension of the disc becomes smaller stair-shaped. If I take off the fat cap, I can easily remove the disc. But it doesn’t make any sense to drive around without hub cover. How did you solve this issue? Turning off the stairs on the inside of the disc doesn’t work either. And please don’t get any excitement about something meaningless as track spreads. The car was on the Essen Motorshow in 1996 and should stay that way. I’m looking forward to every tip. Greetings, Ulf

Hello dear Volvo community, I recently bought a Volvo C 70 T5 in black, but I’m about to sell it again. He just sold it at Ebay ( still 7 days ) but it’s too bad I don’t want this beautiful and rare coupe just coming to a rascal or heater, which drives the thing only to the Schroth. I used 200km to fall in love with the car. Drive otherwise also automatic and big and fast, but the Volvo is something special in my eyes. to the car it’s a 2.3 T5 model in black with carbon and 4 gear automatic with 162000 km Bj 98 I think very rarely. I would like to ask you whether there might be one or other lover among you for this vehicle. I do not want to sell to children who just broke themselves and make car. It’s a good car and I just need to read it in good hands. in the Ebay display my number would also be about calling and serious Interresses.

Hello everyone, the pressure of suffering is now high enough, so I finally deal with the replacement of my chassis. This series flapper is to be exchanged. The question is only for what. Lowering and coiling suspension…hmm, I think from the age I am out. At least now should be with the spring flapping end, and the spring tensioner also have meaning and purpose again. At present I can rotate the spring (front axle ) loosely in the installed condition. My workshop had before a long time only cut a garden hose on and packed around the bottom spring position. But this should also be only an intermediate solution. So guys and Deerns, what you can recommend is so cost-effective in the frame ( I know, stretchable term ), conveys a good road contact, poltert not on track heels (in particular the train stage ) and steering in curves. Auto is a 2004 2.0t with almost 60tkm. Thank you very much for your advice! VG, Wienus

Has any of you already had experience with the systems or even used them yourself. In scandalavia they swear on these things think to me for this winter. Among other things also because I might drive to Lapland. Heating is of course better but for that I would have to be 4-digit. But should be mainly for here at home. A few reviews or your opinions would be helpful because I can’t find any of the things to tell me about it. Thank youDEFA WarmUP

Hello dear elk friends! I hope one of you can help me so that I can save the expensive and unfortunately not always omniscient ones. Unfortunately, the only topic that already exists to my problem does not help me. To the problem: my 850er station wagon, 170 HP gasoline, automatic, trailer coupling, BJ 1996, no additional installations sucks between 0.4 and 0.8 amps (!) out of the battery. I checked that so far: measuring device between minus pole of the battery and the black cable. Shows in average 0.5 amps. All fuses in turn pulled, all relays in the box of the series pulled, starter clamped, Lima shut down. No success. Then I cut the plus cable strand on the battery coarsely, with the result that the current over the seven (?) merged, thin cable disappears. The thick, red Kable and the single thin take nothing. Only the cable strand, which then disappears somewhere in a flex hose pulls the whole electricity. Although I have a circuit plan (Haynes) here, I don’t have to worry about the hook up with you?