Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello, I hope you can help me – I don’t know any more at the moment. Saved a 850 2.0l 10 V from the scrap press. Now he has been TÜV for 2 weeks and now he doesn’t want to turn off anymore and shows a lot of power loss. A few days ago he ran his 205 to Tacho on the highway without mucking. At first he just didn’t go over 140/150 km/h but turned out in the stand. Meanwhile, himself has been uncoupled somewhere, fluctuating between 4,000 and 5,000 end Here he only jerks. In addition, after a few seconds smoke rises up in the area under the battery history: motorized before Tüv: candles,distributor finger/cap,LuFi, oil/filter change, thermostat LuFiKasten exchanged (was for a long time warm air), thermostat cooler, battery as said after that everything is good. Then power drop and no turning out anymore. Then: flame screen cleaned( hardly dirty), throttle flap cleaned, ignition cable set, petrol filter, no fault in the memory so far without success and it gets worse every day?

Hello, have a little problem: A few weeks ago I would have to find short tension interruptions during acceleration in 5 gears, which took only sporadically and not a second. Now this problem occurs more frequently and the engine control light goes on and is out again after 7-10min. With the problem another has also done, which he at 140 and further, totally rappelt. The Volvo runs through great, runs at 120 super calm. 370 TKM stand on the clock and he is Bj 99. Would be nice if someone could help me further! Thank you in the front yoke

Happy is, who is certain that the woman in the car is!!! So it happened today, that the fine Mr. Elch gave him a new little zipper for the best! In the morning brought the Lütten to school, woman in the car and the hopser got out. I of course also, because I had to give it to the trunk to give it his knack. Ok, wish the Lütten still a nice day and let the rear flap fall into the lock. Will get in again…is not! Door does not open! The car is closed!!!! Keys in the ignition lock and the car still runs…. Knock on the window, woman opens up from inside and says that it would have sounded funny when the flap fell. The realization: When the rear door was set up, the ZV has locked the elk off! Without my wife I would have looked quite stupid!!!! The question: Did this ever have been who and what solution is now available?

Moin, how about opening a small thread here for the people without VADIS etc. to ask for part numbers? I have the first question. I am looking for the part number for the lower seal, O-ring on the injection nozzles, with me the seals are brown. I can’t find the seal at skandix and if I order at the friendly, I would like to have the part number to make sure that I get the right one.

Hello! I’m a proud owner of a 92′ 850. Unfortunately I already have problems, most of them relatively no matter, but my ABS doesn’t work anymore. When I start it, the ABS light goes off, the brake pedal makes a click. Also stays out until I brake strongly for the first time. It feels like it’s a little bit clean, but then it doesn’t do anything and the lamp lights up. I’ve already measured the sensors. One at 950, all other at 1000-1100 Ohm. The diagnostics LED (on 3 A) just lights up, the button doesn’t do anything, I don’t come any further. I’ve read that the control unit should be soldered properly, too, now doesn’t know any more…. I hope you can help here.

Hello, I’m new here and I would like to introduce myself briefly, my name is Christoph is 21 years old and from Austria.. I bought a Volvo 850 T5 last year was quite happy with the vehicle until after about 8000km one of the Pleullager failed, well then I put the engine and the turbo again and sealed off.. At the beginning everything was good and after about 3000km I wanted to try the turbo and quickly noticed that he did not build a charging pressure, then made the py-pass membrane new and washed out all the underpressure lines and the charging pressure control valve with cold reamer, the first 100km was all perfekt until then short from 4500 rpm a whistle was heard and the engine stuttered, ignition shut out immediately from the there is all new up to ignition cable and ignition module, error code was also negative. My thought out are the charging pressure hoses could cause the problem..

Hi there, now with the replacement of my defective engine I have problems with the running culture. In order to contain all contingencies immediately. With the replacement of the engine at the same time, the alternator, timing belts, water pump, clutch incl. 2-mass swing wheel, 3 of 5 ignition coils and the air mass meter like all spark plugs ( original Volvo for turbo engine ) were replaced. Both lamda probes were also replaced. Now to the final end, the elk runs like a sack of nuts. At constant speeds ( 1800 – 2000 rpm ) it jerks with soot output on the exhaust. But the pull-through force is there, with slight jerks in between connected, the fuel consumption is also significantly increased. In the state it can not hold the 900U/min and falls to 400-500 rpm, with ignition dropouts and again Rußausflussung on the exhaust.

Hello Mens , I am in despair … After now 3 forum entries, attention to all your tips and today’s change of the right joint shaft and again new brake discs ala ATE … are, how can it be different, my vibrations still there! AAAAAAahhhhhhhhhh ….. 🙁 … from about 110 km/h I have very unpleasant permanent vibrations in the steering wheel which pull up to 160 km/h … then reigns reasonably calm. Very untypical therefore for rims and tires, whereby the tires are 2 months young and the rims run completely clean (OZ 1000 miglia) with 205/55 R17 …. Here is a small set up of parts from this year: cross handlebars l+r axial joints l+r joint shafts l+r tyres front l+r brakes front brake complete shock absorbers front axle measurement coupling rods wheel bearings front l+r tyres forward So … and now you … I just don’t know any more. Thanks for your help.

Moin, maybe I need a pair of glasses or there’s a 3rd variant of the KW label for timing/dental belt ? From “Uncle”-Robert’s (as always perfect) video (at time -> 2:43) one can apparently see a kind of additional disc, which reproduces the teeth, is arranged behind the KW belt disc and then offers behind 2 neighboring teeth 2 indentations. On 6th picture this article could be seen after intense staring at the back/top (on the right side of the very well-recognizable block marking (nase) lying tooth) a notch … at the left side of the tooth lying next to it’ I see at best will not from picture 3 of the very good photos from last year’s Thread of ‘Schimming’, one can at least after a few – zooming in – a notch at the end of a tooth is clearly visible. I had a predetermined 5 times the KW(!) responsibly the ‘Tanging around’ of the ‘Nimming’, but ‘I had not noticed the ‘becoming’ in front of the mark.

Sorry for the rough words. Is it true! Explanation: Last Sunday I was short in the hospital because a Toyota GT from the middle lane on the highway hit our Volvo on the left lane and pushed into the guardrail. Photos of the “accident opponent” and our 850 TDI. I could brake on the front of the rims without tires still of a little over 130 km/h and drive from the far left to the right lane. Thank God: woman, children and dog are hardly injured, I have a few vertebrae dislocated and head, knees and shoulder injuries. This will all again with the time, only our elk, in which I had invested last autumn still 3,300€, has suffered a total damage for 18,000,-€. The OWN expert says: value before accident only 1,800,-€ , residual value 150,-€ Blöd, stupid and again stupid !!! Just that would not have been allowed to happen to me again? TDI with only 255,000 km and good equipment: Both tooth belts and inspection new with climate maintenance Krüber and gear change. Even the rear axle is protected for me.