Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Moin, so I started with the plugs to the ignition coils and the wheels on the candles. As far as everything is good, put in and look there. WOW it’s running. I’m happy and at some point overtaken with the new driving feeling… But from 3k -3,5k the engine starts to stutter so much more… well, a few times provoked and looked at if it gets better shortly… didn’t wurds, for that the mkl… flaws glowed out and see there misigned ignitions 4. Zyl. Previously I had noticed on the Kabel to the 4th already so white “snow” … well, now it doesn’t look very good to me… the spring on the candle also didn’t look at right then… what do I do now? Just change the coil, or can ooh measure the Kabel? I heard once when an Achmessicht only brings something else to me, then there is no longer something to talk about.

Moin today I exchanged the 2 front spring plates on the moose which were finished after about 80,000km. When driving out of the workshop the boss warns me that the noises from my engine room come out. It sounded like a sheet of paper which is stuck to a fan against something skinned. Since it clearly came out of the Agregatten corner I took the strap down and TRANSLATION!! (see photo) How does that come about? The old belt is from the Conti and was replaced in the summer (June) at tooth belt change… Quickly a new worried (also Conti) and laboriously installed. Next week I will probably exchange the Lima (my small one for a 100A) and also an original climate compressor because my of the Deltamil is not compatible with the original plant. Already seen something like that? Greeting Cristian

Hello dear Volvo fan community, have the following problem with the Volvo of a friend: V70 2.5 144 PS EZ 12/97 approx. 413000 (!) Km, the engine stopped a while ago the engine just went off in a curve and does not jump any more. I looked through it once, in the “small” fuse box in the engine room (not the one in the water box) a 10A fuse burned through,Bennenung Injection, new fuse pure but sofrt only with ignition one burns again. After that one week later the fuel pump jammed off and see there, fuse remains in it, so fuel pump renewed. It then came then 7 km far to home there was again the same problem. Then I broke in the fuse box in the water box the fuel pump relay and after exactly 7 km again the same ind a curve goes out and fuse again through it. I then found out that the Fzg. longer stands there (about 14 days) the fault is gone until you drive again. I then have taken a closer look at what is more closely connected to each other, and the battery mass is not always re-used, but again.

Hello, I have a question about the speed sensor / lock switch on my 850er. It has already happened 3 times now that the yellow arrow flashes with the indicator lights. It then switches into the emergency program and you can hardly make any progress. After 5 – 10min the thing has been done and it switches as usual. The lamp then goes off at some point. Error code read out : 3-1-3 – signal from the speed sensor out of range. Even clean or replace falls flat with me. However, I have a cheap screwdriver. At SKANDIX I have found something suitable :http://www.skandix.de/…/ But unfortunately no longer available. You only offer the original from VOLVO for 170€. The other one has probably cost 83€. To me the original one is too expensive. has much. someone to buy or knows a shop at which I can order a cheap one. Still a general question: How urgently do I have to do this? I drive the car still at the woend. and then only about 150km max.

Moinsen…. Says, I’ve read a few times that red elks often have a “painting problem”…. You can see with other cars that the red varnish becomes matte and then looks a bit “comish”… Please look at this one here….http://home.mobile.de/AHB-AUTOHAUS#des_184767199 Is the front of the faeces new painted or is it normal with the red ones? Best regards Bird

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Hello to each other, have an odyssey behind me, therefore brief explanation in telegram style: – (free) workshop has changed rear dampers, oil dampers from Monroe, result after vehicle full tanking see picture – workshop man baffled – turned me to the friendly one, who determined thanks to chassis number, my Volvo original level mates – workshop man has meanwhile ordered new dampers from KYB and new spring from Monroe – today workshop man confronted with the information from the friendly – workshop man of course makes “regress”, but now the KYB dampers (gas) and the springs from Monroe would like to build, instead of level mates => I am now facing the questions: 1) New level mates? (driving 3-4 times a year with a caravan around) OR retrofitting on normal water 2) If the KYB dampers are good, someone has experiences, or can you recommend to me good ones? Am really 50/50 in my current decision state. My biggest concern is a hanging stern. I have of course read some information about the search function here.

Hello, have found out the following up to now: Yes, but car is registered within 18 months (temporary decommissioning). So if the car was not registered 18 months ago, can I go to Tüv with the stamped license plates?! Should I apply for an insurance number (Huk-online e.g.) first? (double card) I don’t have to use it then?! I just want to do TÜV and not leave it again.

Hello dear moose drivers! Unfortunately my 855 has to go for a variety of reasons. Car is in Hamburg. Can be found in the book under the number 140902687001. For questions I am available at 0172- 155 11 00. Best regards Dokaky 🙂

Hy, where can I measure this? Where exactly is the petrol pressure regulator and how can I test it, if the OK is ? Have already done so much (even in a Tunisian way) but I can’t get away from it 1000%, especially from 230kmh it runs so thinly, even though software is already running after what, large nozzles inside etc… At the stand gas it also runs a bit unevenly, but only there. I think that the petrol pressure does not fit, therefore I think to renew the pump for safety, was also very good at 380km. Where is this, also screwed from the top into the tank, as with most vehicles, as with most vehicles? Do you get there via the trunk / combi part pure (in net not found any instructions)? Petrol filters have been regularly renewed (only 10 months ago the last one). I think that this is a problem, maybe it is only the pressure regulator. Do you think here have to take one more of the tuner’s questions before the tuner?