Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

moin, we still have the winter tires on it and ponder just over summer tires. we have currently nokian mature in 205/50 r16 zr on the rims. of which unfortunately a totally wrong expired last summer, track we had to adjust afterwards, but was only minimally misplaced, hope it is now ok. since you can not only replace a ripe one, we now ask ourselves the question, we buy 4 new ones in 205/55 (may like the ones driving at all on our t5, I mean to have read this) or we buy only two new ones in 205/50 what do you think of the test results of the adac? are really meaningful? are so cheap Asian matures generally worse or are there also those which are good though they are favorable? the adac have also tested the fuel consumption, I find that already interesting that there are such differences and would like to buy mature ones, which consume little sprit. on the other hand we just don’t have the money to buy now for 400€ new ones to buy the Kko4.

Hello Elchfreunde I have a problem in point KfZ to re-register. I bought a small car. The previous owner no longer has an AU-certificate, and said, you don’t have to allow anymore. Also on the TÜV report, because AU and HU were put together I checked in the Su-Fu and, ask 5 people and you get 10 answers. Can you get a copy at the place where the AU was made? For your tips already many thanks in advance. Greeting, TDI- Michel

Have a question as not 850′ driver: We own a holiday home in Italy and think about it so that we don’t always have to go down with our Volvo to put us down a vehicle. Found here a vehicle: Volvo 850 limousine year 1992 154.000 km Good equipment, sliding roof, climate, AUtomatics. Unfortunately no fullheather!!! Vehicle is from a 1. possession, stamped service heft should be available. Timing belts made at 138,000 km =20.05.2009. Here the link:http://www.ebay.de/…/261047631836?… or the website of the provider:http://kulturgut.de/2.html As I said, we are thinking of buying a usable box and putting it down there. So that we can also comfortably iron down by plane or train and always have a car at your disposal (hopefully) that drives that. The dealer is about 550 km away from us (live in Schleswig-Holstein = Volvoland). So that we can also keep 2,200 EUR for a high demanded price for a 20 year old car. But there is no idea of how to negotiate the dealer?

Hello dear community! After a long time it happened with us again: someone has striped our Svenson over the left wheel. When my dad arrived today from the work and he saw it immediately to the, because there is there vllt. 800m away. Well, they have looked at this with the result that it must have been a white vehicle. But what makes me stutzig, which he has been rather far up. Vllt. something like that direction Q7/X5? As you can see on the pictures, is on the bumper nox, only over the wheel run he has a bit bigger bump. My question: is there fast need for action because of rust o.Ä. Or can we first take a little time with us? I know, remote diagnosis is always so much a thing, but someone knows advice nevertheless? Greetings, Tim PS: my dad works in the hospital (anäshesist) and on the parking lot (he always sets himself off) then turn at the end. Something like a note was unfortunately not present. Either not minded, not minded, not minded, not minded.

hola werte gemeinde, da bin ich mal wieder. Nu ich mal den elch wieder entfernt und über einem strecken, und bin almost vor fright entstürgt. Of course in front of the east, as always. My master workshop has Easter holidays, and others are dense for weeks and can not even look 🙁 When giving gas, or keeping gas, wobble steering wheel and front wagons as if the car would tear apart, along with loud roaring from the front. Like a shakeshake. When taking gas away and letting roll is nothing. Wheels are fixed, wheel bearings 15,000km old. Horrifying these vibrations. Thought the front window would tear right away. I didn’t ride anywhere over, no curbs taken, or anything else. Does anyone know such symptoms?

For some time now, the rear wiper wash system on my 850 year 96 no longer works. Only the wiper has run ever slower, at some point it has stopped completely. The washing function is also no longer given, one also hears no pump noise during the lever operation. Safety is healthy, washing system filled. Who knows the reason of the failure???

When I had to look at my bookstores again, I decided to renew all 4 of them, because the old ones of 1999 have their best days behind them? Now I ordered everything from Volvo original. Bushings, plates, screws. The expansion of a bushing was done within 10 minutes and has not been a problem at all, you just have to dig up the white “plastic collar” (6mm drill) and flip the bushings with a slit screwdriver. The installation of the new bushings is the reason why I open a thread here. Bushings greased, recording cleaned up and then tries to press the bush with the car lifter. The whole car is lifted up and the bushing is not pushed in. 2. Try: The old boot disk and old bolts as a press is used and thus try to squeeze the bushing in there. (As described in the link again https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t) But it’s got a nice break.

Hello I will probably look around the days at a few junkyards for parts and then wanted to look immediately after a few “HiFi” parts for my 850 (Bj 94). My questions are, Where is the amplifier sitting exactly and should I take a certain one and have to take notice when connecting something? I read that you should take the speakers from the V70 for the front. Are there different ones? And I think that the V70 I was meant. Is that right? Should I get something else?

Hello together have the following problem a bekanter has left me his volvo850 kombi the car standing for 3 years loud output ran the aut when it was turned off. now the car doesn’t start any more. spritt is in but no spark has built a new ignition coil on suspected. now a friend said that after long standing without power the immobilizer has to be deactivated in car driver’s side binkt on the a column a box red doesn’t know how to get the car to run in the operating instructions nothing could help me someone who is great bj 1992 170 ps

Meal, today my old workmates visited, because my new job there is almost around the corner. In doing so, leads the Volvo and how that is so… Sabbel, sabble, and bang was the box with those in the workshop and the diagnostic plug was plugged in What do I have to read on the protocol???? – error code 121: air mass meter function faulty – error code 314: cam wave sensor signal incorrect – error code 535: charging pressure control valve signal incorrect Now my question: I recently converted to a larger torbocharger, installed a larger LLK, etc… Date for the software is after tomorrow, so please not a nice hint this is correct. During the conversion action, of course everything was apart (also valve cover, cam waves out due to valve shaft seals) and for that all possible plugs were pulled and partly also, while ignition was still on. So can these errors come therefore? Or do I actually have to replace a few parts? I can not judge the latch of the T5 at present, because I did not fit into the suction range, but to say that there was a lot of time.